It acts like it is running out of gas, but it isn't ???
 

1996 F150 3L STRAIGHT 6
FUEL INJECTED
FACTORY DUAL TANKS<O:p</O:p

It acts like it is running out of gas, but it isn't. It stutters just like a carbureted car running out of gas for a few minutes, and then clears up. While it is acting up it dies at a stop, but always restarts.<O:p</O:p

This dual tank system has no switching valve; the dash switch just switches the pump and sending unit. I put a gauge on the fuel line at the motor and taped it to the windshield, when it stutters and starts running badly, the fuel pressure is right on target. I did this with both tanks. <O:p</O:p

I had the fuel filter changed, and they hooked it up to diagnostics. No red flags there either. He is thinking it is the computer, but still not sure. The shop I have it at is THE most trusted in town, been in biz for years... They have been trying to chase down the problem for two weeks. So far there is no bill, can't charge you if we can't fix it.<O:p</O:p

So that is why I am here, I need the Ford truck experts out there in cyber space to help us out. Hit me with you best guess!!!!! <O:p</O:p

<O:pHAPPY HOLIDAYS TO ALL!!</O:p

don't know the fix but have the same problem on my 89 302. Does the check eng light pop on when this happens?I would also appreciate any info on this problem.

i have the same problem with my 92 300 i just posted a topic on it so keep an eye on it just incase theres some usfull info in it. the topic is HELP poor college kid with an intermiting running condition. good luck MERYY CHRISTMASS

Long shot but maybe its time for a new distributer cap?

clogged fuel injectors could be the problem. Also make sure none of the injectors has popped out push all of them down. Sometime the injector o-ring wears out.

Does this happen while standing still or is this at hi way speed?
If this is standing still then it sounds like the EGR valve is stuck open, it has a large vacuum leak or the IAC valve is dirty.
Does this happen while it is cold or at normal operating temp. or both?
It could be the ECT or ACT sensor if at one temp. or the other.
It could be the ICM if only at operating temp.
Does it have black smoke out the exhaust while is doing this?

Does this happen when it's raining or really damp or foggy?
Chester

More details
 

There are never any error codes, or check engine light. It does this mostly when the engine is up to running temp. It can be sunny and warm out in the middle of the day, or at night when cold and damp. It might do it every day for a week, then not do it for a month. The throttle body sensor has been replaced, no help. I am at a total loss.... I am at a point where I feel the only options are to start replacing one thing at a time until it stops, I run out of money, or I run out of patience and use it to toast marshmallows....
Thank for all the replys!

You might have water in the fuel tanks.

My '95 300 inline 6 does something similar when up to hi way speed, especially when tryin to accelerate uphill or right after i get it washed or its raining pretty hard. I have already replace the fuel filter, checked fuel pump, replaced distributor cap and rotor, spark plug lines, spark plugs, and it still does this. It works pretty well after I put some Seafoam in it or some sort of heavy duty injector cleaner, but returns after a few months. No water in gas tank. Have already bought new fuel injectors but not sure how to put them in. Getting ready to go buy a book to find out how to do this. I'll let ya know if this fixes even if it is another temporary fix. Hopefully its for good.

f22c130
Here is the information on how to R&R injectors.

Fuel Injector R&R 4.9

Removal

1. Perform all Preservice Procedures as described below.
2. Remove upper intake manifold (9424).
3. Carefully remove electrical harness connectors from individual fuel injectors as required.
4. Remove fuel injection supply manifold (9D280) as described in this section.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...orRRImage1.gif
5. Grasping injector body, pull up while gently rocking fuel injector from side-to-side.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...orRRImage2.gif
6. Inspect injector O-rings (two per injector) for signs of deterioration. Replace as required.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...orRRImage3.gif
Installation

1. CAUTION: Never use silicone grease. It will clog the fuel injectors.
Lubricate new O-rings with light grade oil 10W-30 meeting Ford specification ESE-M2C153-E or equivalent and install two on each fuel injector.
2. Install fuel injectors using a light, twisting, pushing motion.
3. Install fuel injection supply manifold as described in this section.
4. Install electrical harness connectors to fuel injectors.
5. Install upper intake manifold. Perform all Post-Service Procedures as described below.

Preservice Procedures

The fuel charging assembly consists of the throttle body (9E926), and the upper and lower intake manifolds (9424). Prior to service or removal of the fuel charging assembly, the following steps must be taken:

1. Disconnect battery ground cable (14301) and secure it out of the way.
2. Remove air cleaner outlet tube (9B659) from air cleaner to throttle body.
3. Remove fuel tank filler cap (9030) to relieve tank pressure.
4. Remove fuel pressure relief valve cap (9H323).
5. Install Multiport Fuel Injection Fuel Pressure Gauge (EFI/CFI) Fuel Pressure Gauge T80L-9974-B on fuel pressure relief valve (9H321) and relieve fuel pressure.

Post-Service Procedures

After the service is complete and the fuel charging assembly is installed onto engine, the following steps must be taken:

1. Install air cleaner outlet tube to throttle body.
2. Install the fuel tank filler cap.
3. Connect battery ground cable.
4. NOTE: Check all connections at fuel injection supply manifolds (9D280), push-connect fittings, fuel injectors, etc.

CAUTION: The fuel system is normally pressurized to 380 kPa (55 psi).

Turn ignition switch (11572) on and off several times without starting engine (6007) to pressurize the fuel system. Check for fuel leaks at fuel pressure regulator (9C968), fuel injectors and fuel connect fittings.
5. Start engine and warm to operating temperature. Check for coolant leak if coolant was removed.
6. Perform EEC self test to check system's function. Recheck for fuel leaks.

when u are driving and it starts to actup,does it clear up when u push harder on the gas pedal? if it does i have had the same prob on a 300-6 and a 5.0L.it took 2 years to find the prob.

So what was the problem?

Have you gone to the Ford website and entered your VIN to see if there is a recall on your truck? I am not sure on the 1996 but I remember seeing a recall on the fuel system. It has a bad habit of pumping from one tank to the other and bypassing the engine. I am not sure if this will help but I hope so, gr

its kind of stupid,u may not belive it but it really works on some of the trucks.there is a 2 wire sensor on the t-stat housing,the conector gets stresed becuse the wires are to tight.it sticks out right in the front of the motor,just unplug it and bend the 2 barel conectors so they fit tighter on the sensor and clean it good and use some electic grease.if that dosent help u,check the vac lines on the rh side,the hard plastic ones from the motor to the vac pod,on my 5.0 one was craked.hope this helps RC