Dyno numbers, before and after SCT tuner
 

eh, so obviously I don't post here often, but just to add information to the database for others to see I am providing some #'s for you guys.

12/98 model F350 ext cab-4x4 auto

Temp was at 70 degrees. I can't really tell you what kind of chasis dyno it is.
Truck has an SCT tuner, that's it.

Stock - 178hp/370tq

On a 40hp tow program - 216hp/437.5tq

Race 90hp program -253hp/521 tq <--slightly dissapointed. I was hoping for more HP. 1300 on the pre-turbo pyro when I have it pinned all out.

He also has a 85 hp program that is mapped out a little different. I don't have the sheet in front of me. If anyone wants rpms I can provide them.

Next week I will have the "KwiK" filter on and my stove pipe should be on as well. I am thinking that will help here and there, if at least just to get my EGT's down to tweak a tad more.

I don't know how those number stack up against others with my limited mod list, but there they are just the same. Someone could use this down the road at some point I would think.

Talk to you next year!!! :-bigparty

that is a good starting point! i have always wondered what a bone stock truck would do. mine made 208hp with the mods (excluding fuel system) on the stock program.

I am kinda SO, so, on the numbers. I was hoping for a little better, but I tend to be greedy! LOL!
I really would like to get my EGT's down so he can bump it a little more. I also tow and I am looking into propane or water/alky injection. I haven't really figured out which way to go. To many things you can do you know? Plus....I have a car to modify to boot.

eh, talk about dumping dough. Playing always costs though.

Also, to add for those who don't know. Those are rear wheel numbers.

A big help for lower EGT's will be your new open air filter, but a bigger thing would be to put on a bigger exhaust, at least a full 4", I would recommend.

a open intake, and a 4" exhaust will lower your temps by MORE than 200*. after that, you should look into a turbine housing upgrade or an intercooler, as the stock turbine housing is like a cork in the exhaust system, it rockets the EGTs high and it really chokes out the motor in the high RPM's compared to a more-open turbine housing, i would stay away from injecting drugs until you absolutely have to, you can get a cooler intake charge and a freer exhaust which will be CONSTANT drop in EGT, not just when you are injecting.

Good info.
Next week I have a 5" going in. Overkill I know, but my 95 had a 4" and I guess I was wanting a change. Hopefully changing the tone too. I'll be doing the KWIK filter mod too. That was done on my 95 as well.

Whats the deal with swapping housings? I have read a little about it, but it never really seemd quite clear to me. It almost seemed like a BB turbo would be an easy, headache free option.

One of the reasons I was thinking of injecting is that I do a lot of towing. Up quite a few steep grades. I guess I was looking for anything I could.

Also, off subject. Can anyone recommend a good leveling kit? I have seen some shackles on Ebay for about 80 bux which utilize the oem springs. Seemed like a cheap method, I just didn't know if anyone had any input.
I can also get a procomp leveling kit for the buuble from a f250 friend, but he is a gas jobber. I didn't know if the diesel motor would put a hurt'in on those springs. He also said it rode rougher, but with a bigger engine, I am thinking it may not be so bad.

eh, who knows? Thats why I am asking.
thanks again guys

1. swapping the housings, basically, the stock one is good for a stock engine. it allows quick spoolup, but once you go modifying the truck, (more boost, more fuel), the stock turbine housing acts as a major restriction. with a stock truck, it requires about two pounds of pressure from the exhaust (we call it Drive Pressure) to make one pound of boost. so, at 25psi, the exhaust is producing about 50psi that has the go through the turbine before it can go out the exhaust. the larger housing is less restrictive, and it will reduce the drivepressure to boost ratio. the stock housing is a .84A/R , and there is a 1.0A/R housing, and a 1.15A/R housing that is most freeflowing. with a 1.15 housing, the drivepressure:boost is 1:1. so at 25psi of boost, you have only 25psi of drive pressure. it is alot better for the engine, as the pistons can push the exhaust out easier, with less restriction from the turbo. some claim increased turbo lag, however with a performance tune of any kind, it's not noticeable. you can see how the less restrictive exhaust housing alone can lower the temps. if you want to read more, check out this link about A/R and basic turbo education. http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...o_tech102.html there is basic, advanced (shown), and expert.

that alone, will lower your temps to the point where i can almost guarantee you wont have to back out of the throttle (with a wicked wheel compressor wheel) going up grades. your EGT should go no higher than 1200-1250, nothing to worry about. and, you can do what RampageF350 just did, and get a fat intercooler to hang off the front and reduce EGT even more, of course at the expense. turbine housings go for $400 or so, and you have to modify the flanges to hook up the exhaust housing if you want to keep the EBPV to use as an exhaust brake for towing. i dont have an EBPV and have a delete flange to connect to my exhaust.


leveling kit, i recommend Rough Country leveling kit. it comes as a whole new spring pack with 5 leaves, which are progressive and give a much nicer ride, it's firm and responsive, but not hard or stiff like add-a-leaves. it was abotu $260 though and included junk shocks. i would recommend Bilsteins. again, i have them and LOVE the ride of them. you can get both of these off ebay.

For the leveling kit, I got the Rough Country add-a-leaf. I think it was around $50 for one leaf on each side, it gave me the leveling I wanted. Didn't notice any rougher ride from it.

Thanks a bunch guys.