Fuel filter change
 

I know this is a stupid question but i want to change the fuel filter in my truck and was just wondering if there is anything critical i need to look out for i watched the guy at the quick lube change it and it was pretty straight forward.

I just spin off the cap switch the filters and change the O-ring on the cap and thats about it right?

I always drain the fuel bowl first by moving the drain valve sideways. There might be some pressure build-up otherwise. Add a hose to the existing factory hose to make it easier to drain into a bucket or jug. There seems to be two types of filter caps. One attaches to the filter and other one does not.. Someone else on the forum might elaborate.. Mine is does not attach to filter..

My Baldwin filter has a cap and filter as one.

Yeah, what they said. Also, before replacing the cap, fill the bowl with fresh clean fuel or you'll have to cycle the key several times in order to try to fill it and push the air out thru the stock return. Even then, probably still got some in there.

do i have to drain it or can i just open the top and switch out the filter? the guy at the quick lube just opened it up and changed it out

Definately drain it. Then pull the filter. I even clean it out afterwards. Those injectors cost way too much to trifle with a dollar worth of fuel, if that.

One thing I do before I drain it is push the new oring(s) into the pool in the middle of the filter with my finger and then pull and pull on the oring to spin it through the pool of diesel. It gets the oring all covered in diesel which helps it seal properly.

Also- make sure nothing gets pinched in between the cap and the filter housing. I had a little bit of wire loom get pinched in there onece. It felt like the oring tightening down, but it didn't actually seal. If you have a six speed like me, the diesel will run down between the block and tranny (somehow...) and ruin your clutch.... If you have an auto, I think you'd just have the mess only. Just something to think about. Run your finger around the cap and you're good to go.

Well, changing the fuel filter has been an issue for me. The new filters from Ford and Wix (they are the same and each cost ~$40) gasket is too small causing leaks. Purolater has the cap and filter all in one and cost only $28, the cap from Ford is $73. Man I had to tighten the cap with an 18" breaker bar to keep it from leaking, which boogered up the cap. Now my truck stinks like diesel fuel, not pleasant.
Good luck!

Buy them online at www.fleetfilter.com and you'll pay less than 20 if I recall correctly. I've got about 6 of them sitting on the shelf and they'll last me the rest of my life. My Dahl catches most everything that used to get caught in the factory filter.

When tightening the cap I have learned the hard way that anything more than a good wrist twist for tight will cause a leak. This is from putting over 300k on 2 different PSD's and doing all of my own maintenance on both of them.

Interesting. I use the same filter wrench as for my oil filter every time and no leaks other than the wire loom debacle.

The gasket slides back and forth in the depression it sits in. Previously, the gasket was snug fitting and sealed. In another post, someone else had problems with the Ford filter. I tried 5 times to get it to seal. Then 350 miles later it spewed it's guts. I used a 1/2" ratchet was tighten it until I thought it might break. I bought a Witz filter with exactly the same results. It spewed several more times and then finally sealed for the 350 miles home. The next day it spewed again. The dealer said to try the Purolator cap in one. That work at a fraction of the cost. Now all I have to do is to figure out how to get rid of the diesel smell. I did pressure wash the engine, but it still stinks. All this started with the white smoke and it has gone down hill. I think once it's fixed it'll be for sale.

i need to do this soon