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trying to get a new truck
well I have finally decided that it is time to get a new truck, wich means that my old 88 is for sale. I was wondering if anyone knows of any recalls and stuff like that on the 97 f350 7.3 liter power strokes. I would like to find out about that year cause that is the type of truck that I am looking at. so if any wants a good parts truck or a project truck my 88 would be perfect for ya. and am willing to disscuss the price. I know that it is probably not worth much.http://images.ford-trucks.com/forums...s2/stretch.gif
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You need to talk to Mike (mjwhip) about a 97 - that is what he has. Hopefully he will chime in and let you know anything about them.
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I know it's an 88 but an 88 what, besides Ford :) 4x4, auto, standard, super cab?? Be good to know a few things about the "old" truck.
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the old one is an 88 f250 lariate, with the 460 big block, muti port fuel injection, over load springs, standard cab, auto tranny,and 4 wheel drive. is there any thing else that you would like to know? it just needs the heads rebuilt. but still runs. I haul hay with it. and it can easily handle a ton of hay with out any problems. and the body is in really good shape, not a lot of rust. I need some thing with a back seat now. so it is unpractical for me to keep it. oh and the steering colum needs a minor fix. the key switch broke. but I can show any one interested in it how to start it. its not as hard as some people may think.
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a couple of other things that I forgot to mention is that it needs a freeze plug replaced and the radiator needs to be fix again, I soldered it once but don't think that it took real well. don't think that I got enough solder in the very small hole. but both are very easy fixes. the plug costs about 5 bucks.
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From Baz's Page (Good site, lots of info)
Things To Look For When Buying A Used Power Stroke Diesel Turbo: You might take the air tube off the back of the air filter and look inside of it. If there is dirt build up, that is a very bad sign, so are the turbo fins looking sand blasted or bent. A little oily film is normal since the valve cover breather exits inside the tube. Airbox: Check the two bolts holding down the airbox lid. If they are plastic with a square recess, it is a recalled part. The recall is expired, but without the updated lid the risk of dirt infiltration is greater, the lid was updated with more supports and the updated bolts are metal with a straight slot. If it is the old style, you spend around $80 to update it. Tranny: If you buy a truck with an auto tranny, finding out if it's been maintained is essential, as the E4OD is an expensive transmission. Also, (if auto) seeing if the truck has an auxiliary transmission cooler would be worthwhile. For sticks, listen for clunking when shutting off or small vibration while operating. It could be an indication of a dual mass flywheel going out. Many have replaced them with single mass units. Rear Gear Ratio: 4:10 will pull better, get slightly lower mpg’s and run a higher RPM compared to 3:55. Coolant: Ask the previous owner about the coolant - have they been adding FW16 or DCA4 to keep a proper SCA level? It is very important for stopping cavitation. You can get test strips to check the SCA level from NAPA, International, or Ford. I would test the current condition while looking over the truck, the SCA level should be between 1.5 and 3.0. Also, see if it has a block heater (it was an option on 97's). Front end: Check the front end for wear, or have an alignment shop check out the ball joints and steering linkage (tie rod ends). If they are shot, it is spendy (all four tie rods are around $400 just for parts, ball joint labor is also very spendy) Oil: The questions to ask are how often the oil was changed (at least every 5,000) and what kind of oil they used (diesel rated)? An oil analysis could tell you if there might be an engine problem or not. Aftermarket stuff: Seeing if the truck has got an aftermarket downpipe would be nice, a chip, or gauges (pyrometer, trans temp, etc.). Ask about any added items and who installed them. Glow Plugs/Relay: Find out if the glow plugs are in good working condition as well as the relay. Ask if either has been changed and when. You can check the glow plug resistance through the valve cover connector if needed (http://forums.ford-diesel.com/cgi-bi...&f=21&t=005210), and the relay should have power to both large terminals on top when the key is turned on, and one of the terminals should go out before ~2 minutes. Injector o-rings: The injector O-rings have been known to be a problem. The new o-ring sets have a pink middle seal. If the truck has an o-ring problem, one of the signs can be a discoloration of the fuel in the filter bowl. There is a drain on the passenger side front of the filter bowl for draining water (the filter is also the water separator) and you can catch some of the drained fuel in a jar – it should be dingy yellow and not blue or dark. Leaks and Drips: You can check the valley between the heads of the V8 for moisture and/or fluid. It should be dry not wet. Most leaks will run through this valley and down the back of the motor dripping off by the tranny/engine coupling. VIN number: If you take the VIN to any dealer, they can tell you when it was built, when it went into service, and some of the work that might have been done on it. You can also run prospective VIN's through Carfax.com to see the title history. Good luck, any questions just ask. |
OldSHO, I sent you a pm a couple of days ago.
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sorry have been out for a couple of days. and don't know how to pm. but am thinking twice about the 97 truck, its at a dealer ship and they want 21,000 for it cause they put rims and a lift on it. but it has 97,000 miles on it. just looked at the bluse book value on it it is only worth about 14,000. and the banks wont lend 21,000 on some thing that is that old and has that many miles on it.
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Where's it at? When I bought mine (2years ago), my bank had a real hard time loaning 19k for it. And it only had 51k miles at the time. How much do you want to spend? I'll keep an eye out if they wont come down to a reasonable price. Any pics of the truck?
To pm, click on the persons username and click on send pm. Good luck. |
the truck is at a dealership called Cross Border. It's at the shop right now though. They say that it is hard to start on cold mornings, I asked if they plugged it in at night on the cold days and he looked at me like I was nuts. I can't believe that they are asking 21,000 for it. No bank is gonna lend that much on that old of a truck.
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I plugged in the numbers at Edmunds.com. Put in a whole lot of options and the figure for a 97 is between $11,000-$12,000 in A+ condition. With that in mind, $14,000 with a new lift and wheels would be about right.
There's a good truck out there that you don't have to take a beating on. I bet we will all keep our eyes open. Don't get in a rush. |
OLDSHO - Is there a price range you want to stay in? Or even a year range or options you are looking at specifically? I've got a few dealerships around my office area - new and used. I see them sitting around all the time and will keep an eye out for you if you would like!
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I am looking for some thing that is a 95 or newer, and can go up to 14,000 on the price. But I have to have something that is a 3/4 ton or bigger because of the horses, and would prefer a back seat cause I have a baby on the way. It would be really nice if you guys could keep your eyes open.
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Go try WATTS AUTOMOTIVE in Pleasent Grove, UT (500 East off of I-15 southbound) (Left side of the Freeway). I bought a 99 f-250SD V-10 there for 13,500,00 in december with 117500 miles on it and got C.U. to give me money.
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Henry Day Ford found me a 96 f250 with the power stroke. for 10,900. just have to find a co signer. my parent can't cause they have the loan out on the 03 f350.
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