turbo back question - why do I have a 3.5"
 

2000 dually, short bed, stick, 4.11, 4X4, Crew Cab.

Figured that would get ya'll to chuckle. Don't tell me it's my fathers fault!

I've had the truck for 10K miles and decided to change the oil, inspect the emergency brake and look at the fuel lines. Also, it's time to mod the exhaust.

So here are my findings;

The exaust pipe is 3.5" off the turbo, no kinks or ovals and it looks like there is at least an inch between the pipe and the cab sheet metal.

why would I change that pipe? It appears to have nice bends.

Where's the catalytic? Maybe diesels don't have one?

The fuel pump is located in the frame rail under the drivers side door?

It apears to be located before the quick connects? And has black rubber hose at the inlet of the pump all the way to the tank? Is there any air leak paths between the pump and tank?

I thought the fuel pump was above the fuel level in the tank. It appears that there should be sufficient static weight (the weight of fuel pushing down on the inlet of the pump) to prevent cavitation.

If the pump has been relocated by Ford, then what is causing the cackle?

My right axle seal is leaking and wetting the emergency brakes. Got that fixed.

So,

If the turbo down pipe is already 3.5" and the cat has been removed, what piece do I need in addition to the "cat back" exhaust? A cat eliminator pipe?

Also,

What combination are you happiest with, i.e.

air intake
chip or programmer
exhaust

There's gotta' be guys out there that do comparisons on the right combinations. Where is that place or publication

I like the evolution since it includes readouts and I don't need the guage pod or the trouble installing it.

But I keep hearing Jody Jody Jody!

ARGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!

Also,

Blue CPS? If the stock is working, will the investment into the International CPS be worth it?

Well,

I feel better now.

Thanks for listening.

DVW

I think you just opened up a can of worms. Some say the 3.5 down and 4 back is the best because it still gives the lower end acceleration, a lot of discussion on 3.5 vs 4 downpipe (drafting vs volume). The two liked, and best filtration, air intake mods are the kwik filter 6637 and the AIS (some w/ additional sleeve for more air). Flat out Chips are the best. Easy switching on the fly and more precise. If you have a 2000 you probably don't have a catalytic converter so no problem there, a free flowing muffler is helpful. As far as the Blue CPS. That one is still to be determined. Keep reading on that an let all of us know how the coin falls.

I SAY YOU DO THE "KWIK" FILTER FIRST. Its a good filter, with GREAT flow. (very cheap)

Then do a muffler delete pipe or free flow muffler.
Then gauges.
Next flip chip, yes the JODY chip.
You can also do the HPX, the AIH delete and wastegate deactivation. (These mods are very cheap, and effective.)

As far as the Blue CPS goes - if you are not going to use a chip or programmer, then give it a try.

BUT - if the Blue CPS alters timing (and there is some evidence that it does), then a good chip has already altered timing to engine optimum. I wouldn't combine the two unless you get a custom tune based on your use of the Blue CPS - or get the use of it OKd by the chip programmer.

Yes. A tuner will let you read out codes. So will a code reader, and they cost a LOT less than a tuner. I have an Edge Evolution. I'm sorry I spent the money on it, as I switched to a Jody Tipton 6-pos chip and have NO REGRETS whatsoever. I'm going to sell the tuner and use the money to buy a good code reader - and pocket the rest (if there is any left, after taking a bath on the tuner).

got the HP crossover
 

and am waiting to sneek the Kwick filter in without wifey knowing I spent any money on the truck.

It seems the 2000 is set-up ready to race!

get a new muffler, a Jody chip and set of guages (hands clapping together with devilish grin).

YOU NEED TO BE CAREFUL ON THIS FORUM. YOU CAN AND WILL DEVELOP P.M.S. VERY FAST.

P=powerstroke
M=modification
s=syndrome

Skip the muffler...just put in a delete pipe for some awesome whistle and lower egt's with not much more noise outside or inside the cab.
Nut

The Kwik filter is easy - "honey, I need a new air filter, this modified intake costs LESS than a new filter from Ford."

The Kwik filter is easy, just did it. Somehow the plastic on the air box that the clips attach to broke off and well you can't have that it could ruin the turbo. The wife bought it no problem. Next is the wicked wheel because well the air box must have been like that for awhile because honey the compressor wheel is all broken and stuff thats really bad for the MPGs. Stick around there is a way to justify every mod there is to the wife.

Some guys lie and cheat on their wives. Some of us lie and modify our trucks.

Go figure... If you need any well-used lies, just ask. Now THERE'S a sticky thread!

The Kwik Filter mod is fast and easy. I did it in about 1/2 hour, in the dark, with just the engine light.

Thread, heck that could be a whole new forum. I may not have to lie. The wife took the truck out today first time since I did the Kwik filter mod and she said very eagerly I quote "F-Low seems to have more get up and go". I responded by saying yep there are all kinds of little things we can do to get a little more pep out of her. She says "really well I guess we'll have to do that" and so the disease spreads. I all ready had a lie made up to justify getting 5" exhaust that I guess somebody else can use now. I was going to cut the muffler off with my sawzall, butcher the end up with a hatchet to hide the cut, and tell her that I hit something in the road and it ripped off the muffler and I need to get a new one. I feel so much better now that I don't have to do that. There nothing better than a good woman who like HP.

Now that's creative!:-X10
Nut

Your 2000 shouldn't have a cat. Mine didn't. Your downpipe may look nice and smooth, but the rest of your stock system probably has some nasty bends and kinks in it. A nice free-flowing exhaust will help out quite a bit. 3.5" or 4" downpipe on that new system? I guess that depends on your ultimate goal. If you plan to do a lot of mods, a 4" will probably ultimately benefit you the most. However, if you plan on keeping it fairly stock, then a 3.5" DP is what I would do. Next.

The fuel pump is located under the driver's door. Unless a previous owner has done the pre-pump mods, you'll have 3 quick connects before the pump. Working from the pump back, there will be one quick connect on the pump that connects the black rubber hose to the pump. That short piece (12-15 inches) of rubber hose is just pushed onto a hard steel line, no hose clamps. From there, the steel line connects to another quick connect and more rubber line. That rubber line is then connected to the tank with the third quick connect. If you have rubber line from the pump back to the tank, someone has altered the fuel system.

Yes, the pump is lower than the fuel level in the tank, most of the time. No, the static weight of the fuel is not enough to create pressure to prevent cavitation. If you've ever disconnected the fuel line with a nearly full tank, fuel will run out of the hose, but it doesn't come gushing out. The cackle is still caused by air being injested into the fuel at the 3 quick connects on the suction side of the pump.

Intake: Kwik/NAPA 6637 filter setup
Chip: DP Tuner flip chip by Jody Tipton. The only way to go. If you want to be able to pull codes, buy a code scanner. There's no need to waste your money on a tuner, just to pull codes.
Exhaust: MBRP full system. I don't think you'll find a system that doesn't include a downpipe. MBRP is the best bang for the buck.

I'd stick with the Black CPS, especially if you're going with a DP chip. Jody designed his programming around the black CPS. He's also done some testing with the blue one. After a call to him a couple weeks ago, my blue one came out and the black one went in. There's no real problem with the black one, and the verdict is still out on the blue one. I have a feeling it's always going to be out, with no definintive answer to be found.

JT

Lucky guy... My wife loves the truck but she's the, "if it aint broke..." And she's the one who had the 65' GTO.

Got to pipe in here JT. I would get the MBRP without the muffler and instead get the muffler delete pipe. I just installed my delete pipe and i love it! Much more whistle and a little deeper note WITHOUT much more noise in the cab.
I still have a little drone at about 1700rpm's but it has been reduced too!
Very pleased so far.
Nut