git back up thar damit

git back up thar damit

Bump :-wink

tmehrkam,

You said that you only had to remove the air intake from the filter to the throttle body and the hose leading up to the PCV valve. Which plug was the most challenging to remove? Did the fuel rails get in the way at all?

Not at all.

The newer ones may be different.

The passenger side rear was the worse. With the right wrench and extensions it turned out to be easy. Inspecting the hole before removing the plug is the hardest thing. You need a mirror and a trouble light.

On the 3-valvers, it appears a warm-up BEFORE removing the plugs is warranted. I'd look at the TSB's ...

I am confused by the different numbers on the AGSF22WM vs the SP479. Seems that the AGSF22WM is the newer replacement with the nickel plating? Looking on the websites for autoparts stores, none of them seem to carry the AFSF22WM plug. Just the SP479. I checked O'Rielly also and they only show the SP479. Is this new plug only availble from the Dealer?

The box the plugs came in have tow numbers.

AGSF22WM and SP-479 From memory the actual plug is marked AGSF22WM and SP-479 is a box of four plugs. Anyway both numbers are on the box of four plugs and one the box with the individual plut.

My truck origionaly had the AGSF22W blug.

Good luck.

My truck is still going strong.

Ok, so it sounds like the plug was totally upgraded and the SP479 is not changed, but the physical plug is superceding. That is what it was starting to look like. Thanks TM!

Bump this very useful thread.

I don't post here often since I own a Ford truck and it runs reliably. :-X04 I will attempt to contribute to this thread. I bought my '99 F250 V10 auto Supercab long bed 2wd in April 2005 with 59K miles on it. It currently has 114K miles.

Thursday it developed a rough idle all of a sudden. It was driving fine and when I pulled up to a store to park, the idle was stumbling and rough, surging. Restart took a lot longer cranking time. Never got a Check Engine light even after driving to a couple more stores. I figured after all this trouble free driving, the truck deserved some new spark plugs but had been putting it off because of threads like these.

My local NAPA sold me Champion Platinum plugs (out of stock of Autolite) and new boots (with springs). My first step was to pressure wash the engine to get as much crud off as possible. After a good spraying, I went to start the engine to dry the water off and the rough idle was gone! Smooth V10 again! :-huh At first, I figured excess water was sealing some vacuum leak somewhere but I drove the truck around for a couple hours with adequate time to dry off. The rough idle never returned. Since when does washing an engine make it run better?

The plugs needed changing anyway so I set to work the next day. Started on the passenger side front since I wanted to be able to see what I was doing on the first one. I did each one completely before moving to the next cylinder. Passenger side front to back, then driver's front to back. The passenger side is noticably more difficult to access and work on. I think I spent 3 hours on the passenger side and one hour on the driver's side.

Turns out the Champion plugs NAPA sold me were not right so I wound up going to Checker for Autolite AP103s. The plugs I removed from the engine were Motorcraft AWSF 22E so they are probably the originals. Also, the boots NAPA sold me were correct but the included springs were not so I used the new boots with the original springs.

In the process of removing some vacuum lines for better access, I found the line from the purge solenoid to the back of the upper intake was pretty cracked so a new line is now installed. Hopefully, that is one less potential vacuum leak.

I have been getting 13-14 mpg per tank driving in town but my wife gets 11-12 mpg when she drives it. I doubt mileage will improve but I check it every fill up so I will report back if there is any significant change.


Front of engine is bottom of picture. Passenger side is left side of picture.
http://mc-machine.com/crokes_pics/d/...8-5897_IMG.JPG


Driver's front was the worst plug:
http://mc-machine.com/crokes_pics/d/...8-5899_IMG.JPG

Some other pictures that can be made larger by clicking them several times...

The plugs needed changing for sure. Mine now has about 160,000 miles. I think I am about ready for a second plug change.

I made a trip to Colorado pulling a 30 ft travel trailer. I pulled some 9% grades at 10,000 ft. I went slow but made it over the top. The toughest grades were going into Ouray.

The truck is still going strong. The fan cluch engaged for the first time since I owned the truck. Sounded like a 747 at full throttle. It took a while to figure out what was happening. The engine was very cool but the transmission was hot. I guess that is what engaged the fan cluch.

Our 99 F250SD V10 just turned 100K time for new plugs, looks like some good info on this project. I will power wash it down good, let it run to dry it off, The next morning I will pull the COP's & spray some Teflon Pen Oil. Sea Foam or Kroil. Then tap the plugs with a socket & extension & a small ball peen hammer to shock them tp let the pen work.

Sounds like overkill but after changing the exhaust studs.. (don't go there) I will post up some picts. She has been very reliable so far but plugs only last 100K:eek:

Also what are the correct plugs for the 1999 V10 seems like I can't find the ones listed in the previous posts??

Autolite AP103s

SP479

AGSF22WM

All over the map. I would like to stick with Motorcraft but numbers are extinct.

Well...according to the Motorcraft website both AGSF22WM (PLATINUM - NICKEL PLATED SHELL) and SP479 (PLATINUM-IRIDIUM) are correct for the '99 F250 V10.

Hope this helps...


biz
:-X22

Thanks Biz just called O'Reilly's they got the SP479's
Motorcraft part number

$3.07 ea.

He just pulled the plug out of the box & it is a AGSF22WM
They just changed the box:-huh:-huh