T-Case Question
 

I have a blown T-case and it has two cracks in it, 2000 excursion v10..... lowest price for anew t case ive found is liek a grand.... needless to say i dont ahve that much and probably never will nto for a while.... i was wondering waht other transfer cases would bolt up to my tranny? i kind of wanted to swap it out for a manual shift one neways so that wouldnt be a problem....like would a BW1356 or 1345 swap into my EX? I can get these t cases very cheap. ne suggestions are greatly appreciated thanks a lot!!!


geoff

Honestly, by the time you get done hacking up the drivetrain (yokes & driveshafts) as well as ironing out any issues this might create with the computer system, you'd probably be money ahead to just save up for another NV273. Have you checked the salvage yards around your area?

Regardless, if you go ahead and try this 'fix', look for a BW4407 out of a newer (96-97) heavy-duty F250 or F350. I think the case is a little better than that of the 1356.

Thread moved to Excursion forum.

-Matt :-tap

ouch i cracked mine do you know how you cracked yours? i hope your not driving it that way... I paid $1,400 installed brand new

tcase
 

my front d shaft snapped my cv joints....i had it in 4low n gased it too much n it torqued my yoke on my transfer case cracking it.....i dont have a grand to get a new one...is the BW4407 out of the f250/350 a manual shift or electronic.....? yea im defintly driving it around liek this so its due to blow soon... i was wodnering if i could take the tcase off n have the cracks welded?? besides that the case is fine and all hte gears r perfect....let me knowww

well if its not leaking fluid and all the fluid is still in there then your prolly okay in 2wd but if crack is letting out the fluid dont drive it ..... weld the cracks? i dont think its worth it. Also i would replce it with an original one not a different one. Wait it out save your lunch money.

The older 1997 and back Borg Warners and New Process T-Cases have a differant spline count. I went thru all this, but from the opposite direction as you. I have a 79 F-250 with a C-6, and I wanted to buy a T-case out of the 99.5 and up SuperDuty to use in it. I found that from the beggining of time until the Borg Warner 4406/4407 all had the same bolt pattern and spline count, as a matter of fact the 4407 is currently in my 79 F250. But this new design truck has a differant spline count, and I talked with Advanced Adapters and some other place similar and was told that no one makes a transmission output shaft to cross them over. If I was broke, and I needed it fixed....I would weld it in a heart beat! Drain the fluid, weld it, maybe add some material over the broke area...and refill it with ATF once it cools.

yea seems that this is hte only t case i can use....... the fluid is mostly empty...i split the cases a hwile ago to put some gasket sealer inbetween the halves cus i thoguht this is where it was leaking from(but foudn the cracks after i had already done this haha man i RTVed the hell outta it tho!) there was a goood amouth of fluid sitll in it enoiugh for the bottom part of the chaines to be submerged under......

only thing i was thinkin is that what other t case had the manual option for these years trucks that i coudl get to swap out the electronic one for??

Your kind of stuck. The 99 and up Superduty all use the same case, there is a electric shift and a manual version. Both are the same T-case. Really, if you can split the case and are comfortable with that, why would you spend a dime on a new one? Weld that bad boy with the case apart and re-assemble it. Like I siad, I would add a plate or some sort of material to tie the 2 edges of the break back together. If it were made of steel I would tell you to bring it here! I dont mig anything but steel though. Welding is a gift direct from God, and I thank him everyday for giving me the gift! I do have to ask, what made it crack? I use the old 4407 and I push 900+ HP thru it in a 521ci competition pulling truck. I have not broke it yet, 17 pulls this summer on it. Your T-case is supposed to be stronger than what Im running.....makes me really wonder what caused your bust..? Do you think it was a defect in the case material...maybe an inclusion in the parent material? Did you hit it on something off-road? Do you have a picture of where it broke? I would love to hear all about it....so I know what to look for in my pulling truck if a similar condition such as at a sharp corner or at the edge of the case ribbing exists on my case.

actually it is a HAIR line crack like basreeeely noticable....but it cases fluid to leak...its not nearly as bad as other craks i have seen were its in two pieces....so i would jsut need a tiny weld....the CV joint broke.. n i drove it liek that for a lil bit n i think it flying aroudn torqued teh yoke in the tcase wrong n the hairline cracks spread up (two of them) from the yoke up about a few incehs....

Heck, I would really....really.....REALLY...just weld it. If your as capable as you sound, pull it, weld it, and forget about it! If you want a custom front driveshaft and yoke on that thing, goto a driveline machine shop and have a flat disk type yoke made that can accept the big superduty ford yoke that olts on for the rear driveshaft. Thats what I did on my 4407. He machined the yoke until he had just the splined part, and welded a 1/2" round disk on that he drilled to accept the bolt on yoke from the rear of a 99+ superduty. Then we just had to make a new front shaft to match the new bigger joint size on there. I think it was about 200 bucks to get it all done. Im not sure where your from, but Greensburg Machine and Driveline In Greensburg PA did mine. He is a good driveline guy, he does most of the pulling trucks rear ends and drive shafts in the Western PA and Eastern Ohio area.

Yea took my truck up to the stealership today cus my buddy works up thert(scary htought cus me n him wrenched for past 5 years together n i think i kno more than himn ahahhaha) and him n his buddys looked at it... it seems that my front afteermarket warn hubs (lock ?unloick) are stuck in the lock position....cant get em to unlock... i can tell cus my front yoke is turning(have no frotn d shaft in) the tcase yoke is not turnign tho unless engaged iun 4 wheel drive....so good news tcase good sjut need to weld spider crack to hold fluid....and i need to buy new WARN hubs i guess???