Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/index.php)
-   Clutch, Transmission, Differential, Axle & Transfer Case (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum69/)
-   -   locker / LS options (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/352248-locker-ls-options.html)

cap4004 03-06-2005 03:11 PM

locker / LS options
 
I have a 1988 F150 4x4 with open front dana 44 IFS and rear 8.8.

I want to upgrade both to locker or LS. I would prefer a selectable, but since I want to do it myself, I will have to settle for something else. I need an option that uses the stock carier because I cannot set up gears.

I think I have decided on a Powertrax NoSlip for the rear after reading many good posts (mostly from SoCal) about the Powertrax lockers.

I also want to upgrade the front, but I want it to be drivable. I wish I could drop the $$$ to get a selectable installed, but I can't. What would be a good LS or locker choice for the front that can drop into the stock carrier and will have good manners? Keep in mind that the truck may see occasional snow and ice.

Thanks :-X25

76_F150_390_yeehaw 03-06-2005 03:26 PM

Hey,

I expect the Noslip will be great for the rear. if i didnt have factory limited slips id have bought one already. For the front, have you got selectable hubs or is a full time setup? Since with the hubs unlocked it wouldnt matter if ya had a spool in front, itd turn just fine since the axles are physically disconnected, but as soon as you lock the hubs, itd steer like crap. Id be tempted to put a NoSlip in the front too as long as youve got hubs. (Even without, ive heard that thier action is very smooth) My other thought would be too find a front third member with a factory limited slip. It would have to be the indentical ratio as your rear of course, and if from a fairly low milage truck, they work well enough in my experience. itd definatly be an improvment! You'd probly not even notice it on the street until you get in some slippery stuff.

but thats just my 2 cents, have fun

cap4004 03-06-2005 03:31 PM

Thanks, Yes, I have manual hubs in front. Factory LS front diffs are not easy to find. I'm afraid that is probably not an option. If a NoSlip in front would be usable when locked I might go that route, but I'm afraid it will make steering in slick situations difficult. Otherwise, is there a LS that uses the stock carrier?

Schmids4.9l 03-06-2005 03:36 PM

How much are those Powertrax NoSlip lockers? I have 8.8" rear too.

cap4004 03-06-2005 04:27 PM

They are available at rocky-road for about $375, but I'm not sure if we need the 3/4" or 7/8" shaft. If you don't mind somthing a little more harsh the LockRight is about $100 less. SoCal loves his, but I think I'll pay the $100 more for the smoother NoSlip.

Reiderracing has lots of choices, but prices aren't listed.

The system will not allow me to post web addresses since I have less than 25 posts. :-huh

justshootme84 03-06-2005 04:47 PM

You might look at Bronco Graveyard at the Trac-Lok for the front, $195.

cap4004 03-06-2005 05:16 PM

I am pretty sure the Trac-Lok would require me to reset my gears. If I knew how to do that I would buy an Eaton E-Locker. I prefer something that I can install myself.

justshootme84 03-06-2005 05:43 PM

I jusr replied to a thread about the Eaton E-locker yesterday in another forum. They claim you can install it in two hours with basic tools, and all you need to set is the backlash. Do a Yahoo/Google search for "eaton elocker", and look for a tech article on the install in a Ford 8.8". I think that unit is $680 at truckperformance.com

Eric C. 03-06-2005 09:38 PM

I've been looking at the Power Tax due to no set up for the gears required. Just pull the pin, remove the spiders and replace with the locker. I've rebuilt rear ends befor and it's a lot more envolved than just setting backlash on the gears. If you don't verify the contact pattern it can get real ugly real fast.

justshootme84 03-07-2005 12:12 AM

I read the install instructions for the Eaton E-locker. ON the 8.8" when you pull the ring gear, all you have to do to install the locker is attach the ring gear to it. Check the backlash before removal and after installing the locker+ringgear, and hook up the wiring. You never touch the pinion gear. My question is why would you not check the ring-pinion gear mesh pattern while you have the diff apart? It may not be necessary for the install of the locker, but I would hate to blow up a $700 locker just because of a worn bearing or pinion gear.

Schmids4.9l 03-07-2005 01:52 PM

prolly find them on Ebay for cheap, but i dont trust stuff on ebay, unless the box is still wrapped in plastic

Kista20 03-16-2005 06:37 PM


Originally Posted by Schmids4.9l
prolly find them on Ebay for cheap, but i dont trust stuff on ebay, unless the box is still wrapped in plastic

I agree with you 100% I've bought some items off ebay recently that was supposedly new and stated they was new but they came pre-opened and I've been having trouble. Now anymore when I buy stuff off ebay if it states that all sales are final I move on and look for another one. Now after that being said I'm also looking for more traction with my truck and I really like the eaton elocker. I'm pondering on doing a re-gear and figured it would be the ideal time to install a locker. With 106,000 miles I plan on rebuilding the front and rear diffs while we're in there. I just found another thread on here of a website that has the elocker for $680, and I was shocked and most everywhere else I found it sells them for $810.

vman 03-16-2005 08:13 PM

I put a powertrax in mine for the same reason. The traction is awesome. I have yet to need 4wd in the snow. It is pretty jerky if you gas it around corners but you get used to it. I did wear my rear tires out before my fronts just from the turning.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:17 PM.


© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands