Rear blocks F350
 

I noticed that the u-bolts on the rear of my F250 stick up way past the nuts. It looks like the thicker blocks could be used with the same u-bolts. Any one change from the (F250) short blocks to the (F350) thick blocks? And if so what do the thick blocks run from dealer?

I paid 70 dollars and change. But with the springs I have under mine the U bolt had to be 15" long. They cost 55 dollars for four.

Dave, I've kinda asked this question before, but what exactly did it change by adding the 4" block over the two inch block. Since you've done this mod could you embelish a little more. Did you or can you change just the blocks without doing the shocks or leafs. Did you add a 2" leveling kit to the front? or was this done to increase the clearence when loaded. I'm asking all of these questions as I hate my truck to sag at all and with my camper it drops down just an inch or two belwo level and this adding a 4" block may be something I wouldn't mind doing. Also my U-bolts are short on mine, they would have to be changed if I added the blocks. Just a thought though, If the blocks are $70 a peice then add U-bolts so your looking at approx. $160, Wouldn't a set extra leafs do about the same thing for about the same price? Also the same question applies to air bags which I've seen decent sets for $250-$300 (w/out compressor). Also any installation details would be great. Thanks

High Ho,

It would probably just be cheaper to buy aftermarket blocks for the rear and pick up some new u-bolts at a spring shop. You shouldn't really re-use ubolts, if thats what you were thinking.

The blocks were 70 dollars for the pair from Ford. As far as the aftermarket blocks I have never seen any three inches wide where I am. The Ford Super Duty blocks were 4.25" tall, my 85 250 had 1.75" tall blocks on it.

The only reason I installed them was we have an equipment trailer that three trucks pull. One is a 2002 F 350 Super Duty, one is a 2003 Dodge 3500 dually crew cab, and my 86 250. When the other two trucks drop the trailer, their hitches are so high that about half the time the jack does not crank down enough for me to hook up to the trailer. It has a drop foot on the jack that I can not get the pin out of because the jack still has weight on it. Now my reciever is the same height as theirs, so it just works out better for all of us.
I already have a six spring overload pack and a seven leaf main spring pack on the truck in the rear. Four tons does not even drop the truck to level now with the 4" blocks on it.
I have air bags on the front for when I have my snow plow on the truck. They are more suited for something like that that you have on and off the truck.
I have an 8' wide 9' long dump bed on mine that I use daily to haul stone and dirt with. The springs are always ready to go get a load, no need to find an air hose. The ride suffers some, but it is a truck, and I use it as a truck. Over the last 19 years I can safely say that my Ford has hauled several thousand tons of rock and dirt either to or away from customers houses or businesses. Small enough to drive right through the yard, up the the narrow streets and 4x4 for the bad places that a bigger truck will not go through.

Best investment I ever made.

This is me coming to mess your yard up.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...oid=71013&.jpg

you can get away with a 4" block in most cases,but the factory u bolts are not very strong,should go to harden u bolts unless you are setting up you truck for your mother in law

1 ton u bolts and blocks from Ford are about $145.00. This change will not hurt anything.

Oh but you don't know my mother-in-law. She and my father-in-law are the main reason I have a 4X4. The last two mile stretch of "pig trail" getting to their lake house has required my towing someone out of the mud just about every time we have gone after a rain.

I would like to know this info also. I was told that the only difference between a 250 and a 350 was these blocks.

Eddie

E5TZ-5598-A is the Ford part number 30 dollars plus tax each.
I did not install front leveling kit.
I used the same shocks, but my dump bed is kinda heavy.
My truck weighs 8,000 empty.
Also the brake proportioning valve remained the same.
I only had to get longer axle bolts. Had them custom bent at a local truck parts house for 55 dollars for 4 bolts.
With an impact wrench and a couple of jacks it only took a couple of hours to swap them. The longest part of the proocess was getting the old bolts off. I recommend soaking them with PB Blaster and wire brushing the threads for a couple of days before you want to take them off. I would also not consider reusing the old bolts even if they were long enough, the rust above the nuts has done to much damage to the bolt threads to trust them.

These blocks and the label on the door is all that is different between the 250 and the 350 unless it was special ordered.

U-bolts shouldn't be reused, even though I did it once, before I knew you weren't supposed to do that :) Besides, it's fun to cut them off with the torch...

The 4" vs 2" block thing has been around a long time. My F250 has 2" blocks, but I'd love to have 4" because with any load, it sags too much. Actually, it doesn't sag, the overload springs (and the one big flat leaf at the bottom of the pack) keep it from going below "level", but I always liked pickups to be up a little in the back even loaded ...

I'm pretty sure that the only difference on the '99-2003 F250s and F350s was the 2" or 4" block. Not sure about DRW though. And I remember something about early F250's having 4" blocks for a while too...

Anyway, it ain't a bad idea if you want to reduce the sag.

Keep in mind all leafs (and coils) will sag after a while - I'm waiting for my front ones to sag enough, instead of going to 4" blocks :)

art k.