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-   1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum37/)
-   -   1981 King Pin Spindle Lock Pin 2WD F250 (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/346880-1981-king-pin-spindle-lock-pin-2wd-f250.html)

feblock352 02-20-2005 06:04 PM

1981 King Pin Spindle Lock Pin 2WD F250
 
Hi,
I am trying to replace king pins on 1981 2WD F250.
I am stuck at the point where I need to remove the king pin lock pin.
I am assuming that once the nut is removed the pin is to be removed by pushing it from front of axle to rear of axle?
This thing is stuck. Right now I am using heat and lube to try and break it loose, but is not budging. Any ideas on how to remove it other than drilling it out?
Thanks,
feblock352

kotzy 02-20-2005 06:19 PM

It may be that the kingpin has turned a bit and locked the key in it's bore. Try rapping the kingpin up and down see if that helps. On heavier axles I have had to drill a few out,
that was the exception and not the rule. Normally a five pound hammer gets them out.

ktp 02-21-2005 06:39 AM

What are you heating it with? The area around the key must be cherry red on some of these, do not heat the key itself.

feblock352 02-28-2005 02:00 PM

re 1981 king pin spindle lock pin 2wd f250
 
Hi,
Thanks a lot for your help guys!
I think you are right about the pin being stuck or held in place by the king pin binding it up a bit. The driver side the pin came right out with a few taps of the hammer.
What I ended up doing is removing the passenger side beam. The spindle is actually stuck hard. I cant turn it at all. The power steering could turn it but it was nasty sounding. I am hoping that a machine shop will be able to press it out as I don't think me and my hammer has the stuff to get it out.
The driver side king pin is tight but the spindle turns at least. I am going to remove that beam as well. If I can't get the king pin out of that side I'll take it with the other beam to the machine shop. I am replacing the whole front end anyways (all new bushings, shocks, steering, springs) so the only extra effort is going to the machine shop.
Good point about the heat, but I actually was heating the axle area around the lock pin (not the pin itself) hoping for a little expasion so the pin might loosen up a bit. No such luck though. My little Bernzomatic couldn't get it nearly red hot. Usually good enough for some smaller jobs.
Anyways, thanks for the input. I really appreciate it! I'll let you guys know how it all turns out.
Thanks,
feblock352

feblock352 03-13-2005 10:31 PM

1981 King Pin Install 2WD F250
 
Hi,
I am trying to install new kingpins in 1981 2WD F250. I have the new bushings in the spindles but trying to drive the kingpin though to connect to the axle the pin is really tight. I am trying to use a brass hammer, but only got it about a half inch or so. I lightly greased the bushings. Is there something wrong or an easier way than hammer to install the pin?
Thanks,
feblock352

kotzy 03-14-2005 07:50 PM

You had the new bushings honed or reamed to fit the king pins didn't you? If
they don't push tru the bushing with your thumb they are too tight.

feblock352 03-14-2005 08:23 PM

1981 King Pin Bushings 2WD F250
 
Hi,

You know what. I didn't.

I just bought the kit from the autoparts store and no instructions in them or the Haynes manual I am using mentioned any honing. Actually, the haynes manual said to "drive the pins in" so I kinda thought they were supposed to be tight fit and then after greasing them and a little stiffness at first I was guessing they'd seat themselves.

So, no biggie, I can get them honed. I am glad I stopped where I did!

So what would you suggest I do?

I have the new bushings pressed into one of my spindles and the other one I haven't pressed in yet. (still in box) So can I hone these bushings myself or should they be taken to a shop? If I can do it myself, can I use a brake cylinder hone? Should they be honed before being installed in the spindle or pressed in the spindle first?

Thanks so much for the advice!

feblock352

kotzy 03-15-2005 06:52 AM

No they should be align reamed or honed on a Sunnen hone, something the ordinary
home shop doesn't have. At one time you could buy reamers fairly cheap those days are also gone. I suggest you take it to a automotive machine shop. I hope you didn't drive
the pin completely thru either of the bushings, as it may not be useable if that is so.
A good shop will tell you.


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