I forgot if I mentioned that I have the "hot water heater" sized catalytic converter and I am pretty sure that it's manliness is what keeps me from seeing the smoke all this oil would make when burned. It's clean as a whistle inside but the tailpipe has a sooty buildup like some diesels have.
Mike

I have an 89 with a 7.5 with a similar problem but mine seems more excessive it has used enough oil in the last 100 miles that the lifters were noisy on my way to work this morning (no place to get oil at 7 am) I am not sure exactly how much oil it has used but id guess 3-4 qts no smoke and a very minor valve cover leak on the left bank, nothing else as previously described. It doesn't have a cat either. Truck sat for 3 years I revived it runs great changed the plugs 7 of the 8 were good and clean white in fact the number 8 plug was badly fouled from a non functioning plug wire it was missing badly when this was happening and is not now. I am stumped. truck shows 67k miles which seems very much to be original based on the condition of the truck.

ok so in the last couple days ive noticed a couple things in my truck with regards to my oil consumption. firstly it's fairly excessive 1 qt in 50 miles. Secondly when I pulled into the parking lot at work last night i noticed i had a fairly heavy miss fire again (suspecting #8 hole) , and lastly while I rarely see smoke when driving during the day except under hard acceleration which pours out black smoke like a diesel, a set of headlights behind you at night can tell a different story. my truck is smoking under acceleration and deceleration. Is it time to yank the motor and give it a freshening? the truck sat for 3 years could i get away with valve seals and maybe a fix in a bottle? if I can get the consumption down to 1 qt every 1000 miles id be thrilled.

With that few of miles, I would suspect the valve guide seals to be the problem. Due to sitting so long, they have shrunk and perhaps aren't making a good seal.

Before making the jump to replace them, may want to run a quart if Marvel Mystery Oil in the crankcase. I've seen it do wonders, but the vote is its Snake oil. I usually run 1/2 quart in all 3 Ford vehicles I drive, when they get 1/2 quart low, which is relatively close to 3k miles, then I do an oil change. I don't use synthetic as it burns/drinks faster in older engines, which have looser clearances. Perfect for tight tolerance, new engines though.

Is the PCV valve routed to the rear of the intake or center on a 460? On the 302, 351, before '94, they were and lead to #8 piston grenading due to the routing of the PCV valve, since all the trash would get sucked into the last runner, and then into #8. Ford designed a new tube to route the emissions to for the PCV valve to the center on the plenum.

Is the PCV valve you have correct for the 460? Is it a cheap Fram, Autozone, etc version, cause a Motorcraft PCV valve is the only correct one to use. Those made by companies mass producing in 3rd-world countries are crap and only copied Motorcrafts' design. If you haven't changed the PCV valve, then spend $12 and get the right one from the dealer or local parts store. Likely, you'll have to wait a day, but you can scratch that as being your problem. Cheap copies can actually allow to much vacuum to pull from the crankcase and when you are slinging the RPM, just act like a vacuum sucking oil right into your intake and burning away.

as far as the pcv it was changed with a cheap parts store one (i work at oriellys) and i agree they seem to be crappier and letting things past as far as where it's routed i would have to look at it and report back but I will deffineately do so especially since you mention that the #8 cylinder gernaded due to the incorrect design. I will try a bottle of marvels hell at this point I am willing to try anything I just dumped a can of restore in it on the advice from one of the State mechanics (also work for the transportation department) so I wanna run that thru for a few hundred miles then change the oil I have been pouring 20-50 in it too. It's been in the 90's here and without overdrive I crank somes serious r's runing highway speeds. I will look into a few things and report back thanks for the advice

I just happen to read a few of the replies in the thread on page 2, and the sealing surface of the intake makes perfect sense too. I've read were some would make a hard turn right and blow blue smoke, but turning hard left, wouldn't. Just so happens that the intake sealing surface wasn't enough and allowed for a slight leak that would manifest itself when making a hard right turn...Weird... But I try to look at both sides of the problem versus head-banging the problem and not making any headway.

ok i went out and looked at my truck on my break and yes the pcv system dumps directly into the back of the manifold. as far as the manifold sealing surface i was curious about that myself I did notice the other day when going around a right hand curve in the road that I got a puff of smoke. how would one go about fixing such a problem? as well as fixing the pcv system so that it isn't dumping crap into #8?

My 5.8 had a broken oil ring on #8, would foul that plug every 5k miles or so. Burned 1 quart per 200 miles or so. Tail pipe was black with soot. Every so often it would puff a black cloud like a rich diesel (and give a strange sound like detonation) but otherwise exhaust was smoke free. I ran it like that for a long time (didn't know what the issue was, tried lots of different stuff). Finally #8 exhaust valve had so much carbon deposited on it that it wouldn't close completely, and I had a persistent misfire with only 60psi static compression. The truck ran fine before the valve stopped seating, compression tests and leak down tests were fine. The upper intake had oil standing in it from all the blow by (it pooled up in the back of the plenum, I poured oil out when it was removed). The exhaust valves were all bright white except #8 (running lean) but I got great mileage for a 5.8L...I figured the OBDII system was seeing the oil as a rich mixture and leaning the fuel curves, but no so much it hurt performance (maybe not, but 18+mpg seemed too high!).

Try pulling plugs and seeing if there is one a few that have lot's of carbon build up, might help you figure out if its a burning issue or some illusive leak like others discussed above (page 1).

EDIT: I replied before reading pages 2 &3, sounds like this has all been covered. Also just realized the OP was in 04', hopefully he got it taken care of!

yeah i know i revied an old thread but didn't see the point in making a new post so i just hi jacked this one since it's basically the same issues im having. I am hopeful it's not a broken ring on #8 this truck is supposed to be hauling my camper right now but not with my large oil consumption. I will try anything at this point to keep from pulling the motor, not that the truck isn't worth it. I paid $400 for it and it has maybe 2 little dings in the whole truck and bad paint, so a rebuild isn't out of the question as far as value goes imo.

No problem, old threads never bothered me.

I tried valve seals, intake gaskets, PCV valve, compression & leak down tests, and probably others (this was in 04/05, so memory is a little shaky). Only when the exhaust valve quit sealing & we yanked the motor and disassembled was the broken oil ring found. My truck only had 80k on it when I bought it, and it had this issue then. It had a trailer brake controller, so it was probably worked pretty hard at some point, could be the cause of the failure. The valve stopped sealing at ~160k, but it didn't burn oil quite like yours..

yeah i think i am wanting to do valve seals. but i think i'll pull the heads when i do it just seems easier and less risky, lol. plus then I can look at the cylinders and what not might scare me to death to see what I find lol .

This is a current issue myself and other service advisers are dealing with at Honda. The oil consumption issue we're facing (on certain year Accords and CR-Vs) is that the original PCM calibration somehow would cause the oil control rings to clog, allowing excess oil into the cylinders. We've had several come in 2-3 quarts low (in a 4.5 quart system). The repair is to replace the rings and pistons, and reflash the PCM. None of these vehicles blow smoke or have any visible signs.

You may have a similar issue, clogged/broken oil control rings.

If your engine in fact is in good shape mechanically your choice of lube matters end of story.
Sometimes sneaky external issues will pull your crankcase clean of oil and need correction.

Selection of coolant/oil/filters is everything. All of it is advertised the best.

The one test that matters most everyone glazes over like defendants at traffic court.

and pay for a paper tiger...


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Up in smoke! LOL!
 

LOL! just face it the oil brand is keeerrappp!:-X04

WAKE UP!

they get what they pay for! LOL!


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it needs a period of cleaning, if it was mine? I would buy a better quality filter that cleans the oil of smaller contaminate for a longer time and purchase some high quality oil that is synthetic in design. They all claim the best right? Well I have used many brands at one point in my experience and I'm still operating fairly well for a good amount of time now.

I do long drains and use Oil Samples to determine condition instead of changes, I am glad I have taken this route.

I started off in 1997 using Royal Purple in a 428 CJ Mustang GT the instant I started the engine I was floored I had to retune a tuned carb down 300 rpm just by changing the oil in a hot engine, Right there I was convinced that for years I was getting boned real good by ASE store shelf oil.

I settled with a company that pays me back something when I buy the amount that I buy every year, So I'm good. :-jamming


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