K&N????
 

I was wondering if a K&N filter would make much of a difference in my 300 i6 its in a 83 bronco??

Anyone able to help??

K&N in a 300 I6
 

Just had put the K&N FIPK Kit into my 1990 300 I6 few days ago . Was expensive, but helps the engine up. I drive K&N in all our cars and bikes, even in my old Ural Russian sidecar bike. The FIPK kit helps the 300 up from my opinion, it revs up more easily and idles much smoother. And it produces a kind of a "growling" intake sound which I personally like. Mileage improvement could not be tested yet, I think there will be a slightly improvement, as with all my K&N equipped rigs.

Greetings from Germany

JoJo

To date I haven't found a single horsepower on the dyno with 4.9 intake mods. I've tried things from the full stock setup to open throttle body. Nothing there. I'm still on the stock setup.

@Silver Streak: Yeah, I do not disagree with your dyno, but the rough idle on my 300 I6 disappeared to 80 percent after installation of the FIPK. I am on the hunt for killing the other 20% roughness which are left. I hate shaking and trembling gearsticks at neutral on a sixcylinder. Maybe I will have to let it be the truck it is, my other car is a 1993 Mercedes 320 Coupe, Inline six as well, sounds like a cat at idle and goes like a panther up away from idle.
But that is another story.....
JoJo

K&N
 

As far as I am concerned, the air intake mods you can do to a 300 I-6 don't do much, unless you have a later computer controlled truck with a mass air sensor. If you don't have a mass air sensor and computer to match the increased air flow to available fuel flow, then you are putting a top hat on a donkey so to speak. Doesn't matter how much air you give it if you are stuck with metered fuel delivery through the old fuel injection system or a one-barrel carter carb. May make a diff if you have a four-barrel carb however. In their favor, the K&N filters are easier to access/clean and replace than the stock setup. Just a matter of where/how you want to spend your $$$.

If a K&N cleaned up your idle there is another issue somewhere.

sounds like u had a dirty air cleaner...kn are a joke IMO, had one and it sucked so bad. all it did was lighten my wallet...im with SS, back to the stock airbox and tubes with a standard paper filter. plus kns contaminate the MAF sensors on MAF equiped vehicles...

That's kind of a blanket statement. I would say it depends on the vehicle. I've never owned an EFI 300, but I have had a K&N on my last few vehicles I've screwed around with, except the 300 in my truck, which has a $30 Summit chrome 14x3 with reusable cotton (k&n style) element. <- that's not a bad deal at all, really.

Anyway, some vehichles need it more than others, and it depends on where the restrictions are in the air intake system, if at all. Even then, it comes down to use the factory airbox or not, blah blah.

Biggest difference was my motorcycle. Ditched the airbox and ran individual K&N's, and there is so much more airflow, it literally wouldn't run. Jet the carbs larger to compensate, and all of a sudden, I'm producing 15% more horsepower. Can't beat that.

Anyway, from the objective reports I've read, the FIPK for the 300 doesn't help a whole lot, but that doesn't mean all K&N stuff is junk. :)

well its my opinion and i wont use it on another vehicle unless i have money to waste. i agree it depends on the vehicle a lot and the way the air box is ran, etc...

I put a K&N filter in my airbox and the only difference noted was a large hole in my pocket and maybe a bit more intake roar

I can absolutely agree with "benwantland" experiences ! In both our HONDA 750
(model is called "Nighthawk" in the US) I used the K&N Filter. First, it was because of the price, the K&N`s are cheaper than the Honda-Original "paper-with-perforized-sheet-metal" parts (!!!). Second: far to much air, had to be compensated with bigger jets in the 4 carbs. Third: Dyno shows 7.3 hp more. I could compare 2 identical bikes, one with K&N plus bigger jets and the other one without, believe me or not, the difference was really more than noticeable....
OK, K&N will not help always, but I could not feel any contamination of my (very sensible) MAF sensor in our 1993 Mercedes 320. What I felt in this car after K&N installation, was a reduced consumption of about 1 litre less premium fuel per 100 kilometers.
Always had problems gettin my old Russian Ural-iron (650cc,Boxer w/sidecar) kickstarted. Installed K&N ( Triumph model fits...) and a Honda ignition coil. Since then this Russian beast comes on on the second or third hit of the kickstarter, no matter, how long it was parked. Maybe it is the coil, maybe it is the K&N.......

When installing a K&N "Champignon-Filter" to our Daihatsu Feroza (US Rocky), it helps nothing. Consumption raised from 11.5 to 13.2 litres per 100KM. Rebuild it back to original and sold the filter.

JoJo, NRW, Germany

Hocky the K&N flows more air. The engine does not have to work so hard to breath. With a carburated setup you may not notice a lot of difference. If you are having trouble leaning a carb out I would definatly try one. With fuel injection the computer can make more use of the air. With either setup it is all up to you. It can make a difference with whichever setup the vehicle has all depends on how it is tuned. If you decide to put it on a fuel injected engine you will notice more difference if you unplug the battery and follow the procedures for clearing the computers memory. If you dont it will be using the old data and will take a long time for the effects to be noticed.

Your right freshman user
 

the K&N does flow more air, but the stock 300 I-6 carbureted or fuel injected is not engineered to make use of that air flow beyond a certain point. the limiting points are the 1-barrel carb and the primitive air flow monitor that was in these trucks/engines B4 mass air flow sensors were added. I can hook a high-flow air bottle up to my mouth, but can only take in what my lungs are designed to hold...beyond that you're ****in in the wind. unless you radically redesign and retune the stock setup, which was not the question in the first place.

I heard that on the FI models, K&N doesnt help because, even though it provides better flow, it is not cold air intake, whereas the stock is cold air, but it doesnt flow as well, you could always try an aftermarket filter(such as a K&N or Fram Air Hog or something when you replace the stock one, thats probably what I will do next time I change my oil.

I just bought 2 cone filters from autozone. I put 1 on both the pipes coming from the box, and left the bottom of the box their for support, and also to keep the valve breather or watever in current setup, while allowing some of the cold air to flow in from that measilly 1 inch by 3 inch slit in the front of the engine compartment, while i didnt check to see if it improved my idle, during a test drive, it definately revved a little faster on the top end. ( if thats not an oxymoron on a 300-6) But i have yet to see if i get power loss if the engine itself heats up. I think my truck is running rich btw because my exhaust just smells like it, any ideas, maybe thats why this mod is giving me a lil more bawls.

K&N filters do flow more air than stock, but the engine can't use it so it's a waste. K&N filters also aren't very good at filtering. Any filter I can see through is a joke. I don't care what their propaganda says, they are lousy filters. Even if it was worth 5 hp I would still run a stock filter that would keep the dust out of my engine.

my recomendation is to go to autozone, and buy 2 cone filters from there, the ones with 3 inch intakes and a clamp, and take to top off the airbox, and connect both filters, 1 to each intake pipe. I KNOW! that it increases airflow as my truck sounds much better at high end, and it seems to have more power at those ranges too, (the ranges consist of about 22 to 28 in first with stock gears, and 38 to 44 in second). I left the bottom half of stock intake on cuz its connected thru a hole 2 inches by 3 inches to the outside air through a hole in the grill. Next thing i do would prolly be build a stand to hold them up, like sheet metal with 2 three inch holes in it to hold them at a set angle and line them up ( more acstetic (SP?) even though it looks so pimp with 2 cone filters and they are pretty much lined up neway. I might make a ram air and run it up from under the truck.

are u sure ir made a difference or is it in ur head? just because its making more noise doesnt mean it really did anything worth while. when i installed my KN panel filer all it did wa give me a SLIGHT throttle responce increase but shortly after it felt no different than a paper filter. good for u that it made a "difference" but ill stick to my good ol fashion paper filters.

You are wasting your energy! I happen to agree with you all the way about this FIPK crap. But people are just gonna believe what they want to believe regardless of the facts or opinions.

Every time I would post anything against these wonder filters I'd catch hell. Glad to see there are still some out there who see it for what it really is.

The I-6 is a low rpm engine and cannot in any way take advantage of the "free-flowing" characteristics of oily gauze filters.

Ain't nobody in this world can "feel" the difference of 5 hp!!! No one's butt is that sensitive!! (5 hp is generous IMO). It's all imagined!

im not using K ann N filters or watever, these are just cone filters, 20 bucks a peice, trust me the top end power is increased. if you could see the setup youd see why. With the stock intake, the air is coming from a 2 X 3 slit in the front, some say that its almost ram air, but its facing away from the grill, its facing to the right (if viewed from front and its located on the right. I go from a 2 X 3 slit to massive filters, i promise you. My truck would rev to 28 in first, but now it like... MORE MORE MORe type thing. Maybe this is just specific to my truck, and maybe it has to do with my free flowing exhaust, but the added power where i need it is there. I will tell you a definate answer as well as a ET gain in a week when i get back to the strip.

If your truck will only pull 2800 rpm in 1st gear there is something seriously wrong with your engine. I shift at 3800 in 1st, 3500 in 2nd and 3200 in 3rd. My dyno sheets all look identical no matter what kind of intake is on the truck. I doubt your high flow exhaust is any better than mine. It doesn't matter if you feed a garden hose from a 5 gallon bucket or the Pacific ocean, the hose is still what limits the flow. Same story with the head and valve timing in the 300.

As far as ET gain is concerned, not everything is as it seems. There are too many variables at the track to tell any difference unless you are making huge changes. You need to spend some time on a dyno to see any increases you will get with a certain modification.

:rolleyes: :-X15

Actually, not necessarily, if you're a halfway experienced racer. Have you ever heard of bracket racing? There are a lot of people in the world who can predict their vehicle's ET to within a few hundredths of a second on any given day.

But they don't just show up at the track and say I'm going to run whatever time. They make several passes the day of the event before the racing starts so they have a very good idea of what to expect out of their car that day. Then all they have to do is estimate how much to change their dial in each round. They also use a weather station to tell them what the density altitude is and what the humidity is. I seriously doubt any of that equipment will be in use during the testing we are talking about.

Yeah, but I'm just saying it's entirely possible to notice a small difference in power if one wanted to test it that way. Especially with something as simple to change as an air filter or intake setup. A couple of runs each way back-to-back, and it would be apparent whether a worthwhile difference was made. You don't need a weather station to test an air filter.

Right you are
 

Yes, your truck will be a little peppier going over to a cone filter or FIPK setup on a 300 I-6, compared to the stock/crude air intake setup. I had a muffler shop fabricate a Y-pipe to join the two black intake hoses into one and then stuck a K&N cone filter on the end of the one pipe. It was peppier but it also started sucking gas...which is NOT GOOD these days. I'd rather run the stock setup, get better MPG and thumb my finger at OPEC cause I don't have to stop for gas every time I pass a station.

K&N is a creative way to waste money. modding a 300 is like drag raceing a ice-cream truck...pointless. i've sawed my muffler of and ive taken my air filter off so that im just suckin in the air we breathe with no filter. i felt NO increase in power. open exhaust and no air restiction into the motor due to air filter and i felt no power increase. I'd take a K&N only for free and if i were bored and felt like installing it.
the inly way to mod a 300 is to mod the motor itslef.

I'm now dumber from reading all this. Thank you :)

AHAHA i wasnt talking 2800 RPMS i was talking 28 MPHs. At night when its nice and cool, i can loose the back end in first going around any corner as well as in second. When its cooler outside, and the engine has been sitting for a bit ( IE when i first get off work) i can push 30 MPH in first, 50 in second, and 3rd i have no clue, cuz i dont have a tach and wind noise starts factoring in, i know it does 67 tho, and 4th, hell it carried me to the peg before i got these mods.

I agree that KN filter is a waste. Also, the sound that the engine makes will make youn think you have more power. Back in the eighties, a rumor went around that if you turned the lid upside down on your air cleaner, then you would get more HP. Hah, what a joke. It sounded louder and that was all. John

Turning the air cleaner upside down was not an 80's thing, it was a 60's thing. It does work when you have a lousy flowing intake like cars did back then. Especially when you've built a stout engine and want it to look stock.

lol you guys should stop complaining, go try it, if you dont notice the diff, take em back and say they didnt fit, advanced autoparts/ autozone places are cool like that.. but think it was well worth my 50 $ rather than 110 for a base cold air intake or like... alot to get the muffler shop to custom make 1.

Not that much
 

Well if you really want to try the FIPK style cone air filter at less cost than an FIPK setup, have your muffler shop fab a Y pipe...two outlets fit into your airintake hoses and the filter fits to the single end. Cost me about $5 bucks at my muffler shop so it ain't that expensive.

actually i just stopped by the muffler shop today, i got him fabbing 2 sections of tubing coming off the air sensor / throttlebody and hes gonna put a crossover between the 2 so pressure stay equal when i go to add a turbo, therefore rather than 4 BOVs ill only have 2. Hopefully this will cost less than 100 $ lol

this past year i installed a clifford intake and a motocraft 2150. at that time i also installed a k&n filter. as it turns out i wasn't really able to notice the effect the filter had on my performance. however, living in north dakota creates some challenges during winter driving. snow can have a negative effect on the performance of an open filter, so, i modified the filter housing that was donated from a ford f-150 351 pickup. the other day, i took it out on the road and immediately noticed a loss of power. turned around and reinstalled the k&n filter and voila the power is back. this is just my observation, and not really an opinion. i would have to say the k&n does improve power, especially in an engine that is underpowered like the 300.