Questions for my new/used canopy...
 

I finally found a used Glasstite Raven fiberglass canopy for my '95 F150, a mere $200 :D from a surprisingly nice guy at a used car lot. The only down side is that it's bright red (naturally, since my truck's blue) and it needs a 3rd brake light.

1) Should I wire up a brake light in the canopy, or will one of those brake lights that fits in my receiver work?

2) I've got a paint quote from Maaco for $287 with tax and all, and I'm waiting for another quote. Does this sound about right? (I'd be tempted to paint this myself - I've got a paint gun and all but considering the weather I'd rather just get it done elsewhere.)

3) I've got 4 clamps to hold it down - do I need 6?. Do I need to add padding underneath? I'm reluctant to clamp it down much for fear of cracking the fiberglass - should I add put a piece of metal on top to distribute the clamping pressure?

Can't help you with questions 1 or 2 but as far as mounting the canopy goes I would definitely use 6 clamps. Buy a roll of foam backed canopy tape and apply it to the bottom of the canopy rails before you clamp it down. Most canopies I've owned have had their rails reinforced with steel or wood. I've just clamped them down directly. If your rails are flimsy it wouldn't hurt to lay down some thin steel on top of the rail to help distribute the load. Hope this helps.

The rear brake light should be mounted up high according to federal laws. They call it a C.H.M.S.L. { center high mounted stop light}. They are required when the truck has a factory mounted one on the back of the cab and it is blocked by the cap or shell.
Under $300 is normal for painting. I would remove the windows and rear door before and use new foam tape when you re-install them. Use mylar backed cap tape on the mounting rails of the cap so when you take it off you don't have to re-tape it. Use a quick disconnect plug from the truck to the cap for the brake light & even a 12v dome light in the cap. Do not hook the brake light to the rear tail lights or it will flash with the turn signal. If you can't find a light green wire at the end of the driver's side frame rail that ends with shrink tube on it you will have to run a wire to the brake light switch under the dash. You can hook the dome light to the tail lights so you don't leave it on after you use it. You can use a 4 way flat plug like a boat trailer uses for a quick disconnect.

How the heck to I remove the windows??? I unscrewed the 100 or so screws holding the inner window braket it, but it won't come out. Is it really glued in with foam tape?

The windows usually stick to the cap after years of being there. Use a stiff plastic "Bondo" applicator to go all of the way around the window to break it loose. A putty knife could work in your case since you are getting new paint. Don't flex the frame too far because the are usually 1/8" safety glass which you can't get without replacing the whole assy.. I don't know if your painter promised to prep it right before so clean all of the glue off with laquer thinner. The windows don't always fall back into the same position and the glue residue shows back in the paint if it is still there. You might also consider un bolting your gas filler door and leaving it with them so there are no excuses on the paint match when it is done. (unless it's 2 tone)

I've pried as much as I dare, and I don't see how this is going to come out without damaging it. I'll probably just leave the windows in place and hope for the best on the paint job. Unfortunately, I've got 2-tone paint, so the fuel door won't help. I'm not sure what else I can do beside leave my tailgate...

Thanks for the tip on the rear brake light. I've asked around a lot and no one knew one way or the other. I just bought a reciever brake light, but I'll pick up a high-center light as well. Thanks for the info!