Brake job 1960 effie
 

Next week I'm going to begin the brake rebuilding on my '60 Flareside with a four on the floor. It will require a new master cylinder and all new lines at the least. I'm not sure what the pads or parts will look like when I remove the drums.

Do you have any advice for me?

You don't say if you are running discs up front so I'll assume drum all around. They look like most any drum brake set up, so if you are familiar with those you won't be in for any surprises. If you are like me, the best way to start is do one at a time. Remove the wheel and drum from both sides but only take one side apart. That way you can go look at the other side to be sure how it goes back together. You will want to rebuild or replace the wheel cylinders and the hardware that holds the shoes to the backing plate,possibly the brake springs and star adjuster, and have the drums turned. Inspect the wheel bearings, clean them and reinstall with new seals if the bearings are ok, if not replace the bearings. I have been able to get all that stuff at Carquest or NAPA, including the new master cylinder. Be sure to bench bleed the M/C before installing, it will save a lot of hassle.
I have a master cylinder with only a few months use on it and the complete drum brakes and hubs for the front of a 60 F-100. It's laying in the garage since the disc brake conversion last year. Shoot me an email if you need any of that stuff, I'm sure we could work something out.

Anybody think of something else?


Bob
1960 F-100
1995 F-150
Ski Nautique (351W)

Thanks Bob,

I've heard of bench bleeding before but I'm not familiar with it. How does one do it and why is it necessary?

regards

Bech bleeding is done by putting the M/C in a vise or some sort of clamp to hold it level, before installing in the truck. Fill the M/C with fluid,slip rubber tubing over outlet and loop it back into M/C under the level of the fluid. Push the plunger with a dowel or something that will fit but not mar the plunger, until all the air bubbles quit blowing. This will make sure there is no air left in the M/C. You can get bench bleeding kits at most parts stores. They have plastic fittings that screw in the outlet and tubing for the loop. When you get a M/C they usually have bench bleeding instructuins. If you don't bench bleed it takes a lot more bleeding on the truck ti get all the air out and if the M/C isn't level you may never get rid of all the air.

Bob
1960 F-100
1995 F-150
Ski Nautique (351W)