Tire size chart?
 

We seem to be getting a lot of questions here lately about what size tires and wheels fit our trucks.
Anyone interested in doing a bunch of research and making a chart of what fits what? I guess both 4x2 and 4x4. How big of tires will fit with different lift kits etc would be helpful too.
If anyone or a couple people want to work on that we could add it to the FAQs at the top of the forum.
I'd rather not just have a link to another site with the info. If we had our own chart it would be better.
It doesn't pay anything other than recognition and knowing that you've helped :)
That's the same as us moderators get paid ;)

Here's what I've come up with, I hope that this will be helpful.

Super

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97-03 F150 4x4 / 97-01 Expedition 4x4

Lug Size: 12x1.75mm or 14x2mm (depending on year)
Bolt Pattern: 5x135mm


Lift: None

Tire Size: 285/75R16
Wheel size : 16x8 (1)

Lift: 3''

Tire size: 305/70r16 or 17", or 33x12.50
Wheel size 16x8 (1), 17x8 (1), or 16.5x8.25

Lift: 4" *

Tire size: 35x12.50R16.5 or 315/75R16
Wheel size: 16x8 or 16.5x8.25

Lift: 5-6"

Tire size: 35x12.50R16.5 or 315/75R16
Wheel size: 16x10 (2) or 16.5x9.25

Lift: 8-9"

Tire size: 36x14.50
Wheel size: 16x10 (2) or 16.5x9.25

Lift: 10-12"

Tire size: 38-39"
Wheel size: 10-12"

The F150 / Expeditions are prone to vibration problems when using wide wheels or tires.

For daily drivers, use 8" wide wheels and 12.50 width tires maximum.

(1) Wheel must have OEM backspacing.

(2) Bumper may need minor trimming, recommend using 8" or 8.25" wide wheels due to clearance & vibration problems.

*Minor trimming may be required.

Great list superrangerman2002. Are these numbers for suspension lifts only. The reason I ask is I presently have a 3" body lift and I clear my 315/75R16's with just a little frame contact when turning too sharp. I haven't noticed any tire-body contact while off-roading so far.
Just my .02 :)

These numbers are a generalization. They are in terms of total lift, whether it be body, or suspension, or the combo of body and suspension.

I know that there are people that are running larger in some of the cases that i've posted.

But, you need to remember that there are many variables, for example a 3" lift in brand A is generally not the same as a 3" lift in brand B.

Also, true tire sizes across brand names are also different, and also the difference in height between new and used tires.

And there's also the kind of shape your front end is in too, a newer less abused front end will often fit a bigger tire than a front end that has been abused.

If you have 17"s like I do, and are curious as to what you can run, the best thing that you can do is to find out the dimensions of the tires listed above.

For example non lifted 285/75r16 is max for a truck with 16's

Specs for a BFG AT's in the above size (pulled these of BFG's site)

32.9'' tall, reccomended rim size 7.5-9.0'', and has a section width of 11.3'' on a 8'' rim.

Now compare these numbers to a 17'' tire.

Just happens a 285/70R17 comes close...

32.8'' tall, reccomended rim size 7.5-9'', and sect width of 11.5" on a 8'' rim.

By saying a 285/75r16 is the largest non-lifted tire, I'm really saying a tire of 32.9'' tall, reccomended rim size 7.5-9.0'', and has a section width of 11.3'' on a 8'' rim is the size needed. (keep in mind that these are "nominal sizes")

The 285/70r17 will be just a hair bit wider, but very barely noticeable, and stood against a 285/75R16, only difference will be the bead size.

If you have 16'' wheels, the 285/75R16 is very, very close to being a 33'' tire, 32.9'' on average...

If you have 17'' rims, as I do, you could go with the 285/70r17's, they come in at 32.8'' on average.

ok. here is what i have came up with
No lift = up to 29 in. tall (265-65-16)
3.5 in. lift = up to 33 in. tall (285-75-16)
4-5 in. lift = up to 33.5 in tall (295-75-16)
6 in. lift = up to 34 in. tall (305-75-16)
7 in lift = up to 35 in. tall (315-75-16)

any questions about tire and wheel sizes go here:
http://www.procomptires.com/tireconversionchart.htm

Its not really the height that is most important, its really the width that's associated with the height of the tire.

A 285/75R16 (approx 32.9'' tall) will be the max size for any 4x4 F150 frame, with out a lift.

sorry yall, forgot to tell you that was all for 4x2's. but so far what i have seen the 285's fit pretty close to tight on a stock 4x4. i have 285-75-16's on my 4x2 with a 3.5 in. lift and they rub just a little bit when the whell is cranked all the way.

I have a 1998 F150 supercab 4x4 and I put 315/70/17's BFG AT's on it stock. Now they fit but I had to trim about 1" off of that black plastic thing under the front bumper. Also I had a little rub on the frame when I turned the wheel all the way. It looked really good. But I wanted to be taller so I added another 2" block in the rear and cranked the torshion bars 2" and it look's really good. A friend that works at a tire and wheel shop tells me that he has put 315's on quite a few stock 4x4's. I am not sure but all I know is that a 315 looks good on are trucks.

I have run two sets of 33 x 12.5 17's on my '99 F150 4x4, on the stock rims, with no lift, and I haven't had any issues with rubbing at all. In fact, I'm buying my third set of the same tires this month. I'm averaging 45K miles on these mud terrains, so I'm pretty satisfied with them.

305/70/17 buckshot mudders on stock rims with only minor trimming (didn't have to crank it up either)

98 F-150 offroad

I am running Dunlop Mud Rover 285/75/16's on my 01 supercrew
4x4 and they ride great and only hit the fender well when I make sharp turns or backing out of parking spaces. They make that truck look good!

The loss of power depends on how big and wide you go in size. Essentially by putting on taller tires, you are increaseing your final drive ratio, and increasing your rotational inertia (resistance to rolling).

One common way to compensate for pwr loss is to regear your rearend, and this can be realtively cheap to do on a 2wd truck.

The wear thats in the center is mainly due to the high inflation number that you are running, it's causing the middle of the tire to bulge out, and making your wear the center out. The 16x7 rims may have contributed a bit, but its the over all psi, that is the main culprit. The psi numbers on the side of the tire are a max inflation number, and by no means are the reccommended tire inflation. Now for the rear tires with a load on, that's a different story.

Chances are that the cupping is indiaction of needing an align ment. Running your torsion bars cranked up for 300 miles may hve been enough to change the torsions bars, that when you let them back down, they were out of whack and caused the tires to cup....or it just may be the steering alignment...in either case I reccomend an alignment.

30K miles is really nothing to sneeze at for an AT tire (im assuming it is an AT), and considering the high psi's that your running, I have seen alot worse in wear miles.

Here's my reccomendation, If going with new tires, get your alignment cheked right after new rubber, and run your psi's alot closer to the numbers that are on your door. For example on my 6ply's I run 35 front and rear. You'll see a lot longer tread life, more steering control (you'll be using the whole tire instead of just the center), and over all better ride. If you need to tow something, then just bump up the rear tires to the max psi on the tire, then let them back down after your done towing. 35 front and 40 rear, are more than enough psi's for an F-150.

BTW, when and if you get new rubber, make sure to have the tire guys run the rims on a balancer with out a tire, to see if your rims are out of whack.

Hope i wasnt too long winded.

Hope I made some sense.