Intake, carb and distributor for 360 FE?
 

I've came across some extra $$$... roughly $1000.

I was thinking the old truck could use some improvements. The truck is a 72 F250 with a 360 2 bbl and auto.

Specifically, I was thinking of a new holley 750, with vacuum secondaries.

Here's where I could use some suggestions. Anyone have any thoughts on a intake manifold to set this on.

I was also thinking a new distributor. Someone suggested an MSD. Again, anyone have any suggestion a new one.

Thanks in advance.

Sam

a performer rpm intake and 750 holley would be a good start an MSD would work fine, or just a petronix ignition form jc whitnet for about 79.99 would replace the ponts and get a 40,000 volt coil to go along with it would work to thats about 29.99, a good set of headers would improve the 360 a bunch, good luck

I am in the same Boat not as much, but i have learned how to make alittle bit of money stretch along way.........................

1. Edelbrock Performer RPM FE Intake Manifold Part #7105.

2. Edelbrock NEW Thunder Series AVS -- 650 cfm for Off-Road Applications/electric choke Part #1826. (not sure if you have 4x4) OR Part #1806 for 2x4 truck

3. Performer Divided-Wall 1" Spacer, for Two-Plane Manifolds Part #8714. (Helps with carb boil during HOT summer months)

++PLUS...all the special linkage, bolts, gaskets, etc...etc.

4. Holley Avenger Series Carb 670 cfm (2nd choice)

5. Free flow exhaust system. If single go 3"...if dual go 2.50" (FlowMaster works well and they have universal pipe too)

6. Mallory Unilite distributor Part #MAA-4755301 (from Summit Racing)
Replacement Parts:
Distributor cap MAA-209
Rotor MAA-322
Module MAA-605
Harness MAA-29349
Vacuum advance chamber: MAA-29332

MOST of all...have FUN!

:-X22

I would suggest either:
A Police Interceptor manifold.
Or a "S" or Cobra Jet manifold.

Those failing a Blue Thunder.

If those are too hard to find or expensive, a Performer RPM.

The Street Avenger 670 (there is also a Truck Avenger) is nice and would be plenty of carb. The 750 CFM model 3310C is cheaper though.

If it is a 2WD hooker has a bolt on system that works with their competition series headers and 2 turbo mufflers.

I am a lot more conservative than the other fellows here. You have a Truck, a 360 engine and I'd guess a lot of miles on that engine. If the engine is sound, doesn't use oil, starts and runs well, I would; Refresh the heads, grind the valves, inspect valve guides and replace the valve seals. Use ARP studs for the heads and a new fastener set for the intake. Restrict oil flow to the heads with a couple of gallery plugs drilled at .090. Or 1/16th inch in english. I would use a 4v iron Ford intake (cheap) and a 6oo cfm edelbrock with electric choke. Install a pertronix ignitor, their coil, a reman distributor, flat cap, long nose rotor and 8mm wires (all Ford parts). Gap the plugs at 0.060, replace all the filters, belts, battery, cables and for a 100 bucks add an 85 amp one wire alternator. This will use all your money and give you a smooth running easy driving truck.

If you are going to gap the plugs @ .060, you will need a higher output ignition than the Pertronix. Even with a MSD6A I have found .045-.050 works fine. A wider gap without multi-spark can actually result in the spark getting "blown out" before igniting the fuel, it also puts a tremendous strain on the whole secondary ignition system(wires, plugs, cap, rotor, coil) due to the very high voltage needed.


I agree with the headers, intake/carb route, but will also suggest a high output multi-spark ignition with the dist. The MSD dizzy is a fine piece, but will gain little over good stock unit if not combined with their MSD box.(not counting adjustment, durability,looks, elec. of MSD dizzy) What I'm saying is performance will only improve if you take advantage of MSD dizzy's features and benefits.

For conversion purposes .090 isn't 1/16 inch. It's closer to 3/32. Being that it's a 360, I'd sugest ( that is if it really is a 360 and not a 390) a early 60's vintage 390 Hi-po /427 lowriser Factory Aluminum intake or an Edelbrock Performer (not the rpm unless you plan on more power in the future) Headers and dual exhaust are a must. Carb can be anything from a 600 to a 750 , being that the cam and bottom end are stock, then I'd stick with a 600.

FWIW, the club Cobra and FE forum guys say the performer is significantly WORSE than any factory intake.

I agree with the conservative group. A good dual exhaust never hurt any FE. Install a good electronic distributor, the Ford Duraspark triggering a MSD 6A is really hard to beat for price and durability. The Ford aluminum intakes are all good but very expensive. Typically you will pay a premium for an original piece and most likely have additional costs to make repairs. Remember they are 40+ years old and aluminum. I would stick with a Performer and a smaller carb. Holley has a list 4548, designed as a Ford replacement piece. It is a 450 cfm and works great on the above combination. It has the universal linkage, Ford kickdown for an auto trans and an automatic choke. The smaller carb will sacrafice horsepower at higher RPM, (above 3500) but you will have better throttle response and all around driveability. You did not talk about a camshaft change. If you decided to go that route all the mods should be dictated by the new cam.
I have run this combination on several different 360 and 390 powered trucks and found it hard to beat for an everyday, dependable driver. Depending on where you buy your parts, this will likely use up most of your budget. Hope this helps.
Roger Carter

if your looking for a cheap good intake DSC motorsports have used 428 cobra jet intakes for $150, just an idea

$150? that's about a dollar a pound LOL

haha thats about true the boat anchor weighs about 80 pounds i think it said.

80? try closer to 110! you ought to try swapping one in a vehicle , trying to set it down on new gaskets and stabbing the bypass tube in to the bypass hose without disturbing the gaskets. Hard enough with an aluminum one. I did this once, in a 67 Stang. Bought a used 428 CJ iron anchor for $50, figured I'd add a few HP over the GT "S" intake that came with the car. HAd to remove the hood so I could stand on the shock towers and lower the CJ intake onto the motor. Never again!!!! In a pickup? Your best bet is to use an engine hoist to set it in.

All true and a sincere discussion. Thats what I like most about this site. I hope Sam comes back and lets us know what he plans to do with his truck. I'll try the shorter gap on my autolite 45's, The 428 CJ iron intake sounds interesting! I use a engine hoist to do these heavy intakes and rarely have leaks. I also pull the water pump and install that after all the heavy work is finished. All my ignition stuff is pertronix, its easy and I am lazy, and I hate change! I also use all Ford components except for the coil. IMHO!