Help with 77 460 vacuum lines plz
 

I recently got a 77 F150 with the 460 its the best toy. It is the Auto with 4WD. Body is shot but the frame is in nice condition. I am trying to get it running good again. The guy rigged a bunch of crap. Main problem right now is I cant seem to find info on the vacuum lines and egr stuff. Most of it is disconected. It dont need to pass emissions here in upstate NY. I have the calibration number "8-97-RO". I have searched this sight and got alot of really good info but still none of the vacuum diagrams for my truck. I saw the autozone stuff but cant really tell which one is mine. Currently I have a Holley 4160 carb on it which came with it.

1. Do I need the egr plate and manifold on this engine for it to run good. Or can I put a non egr manifold on there and still get good performance and fuel economy. With in reason of course I do understand this is a 460 and fuel economy is not its best thing.

2. If I have to have the manifold on there does anyone have the vacuum diagram to go with my engine.

So far I have had alot of fun with this truck but for it to last I have to do some major repairs to get rid of the Rigged up crap. It is the perfect trail ride vehicle.

Vacumm
 

I have a manual for 1977 460 on Cd. Let me know if you still have your problem. I'll look it up in the manual when I get home in the morning right now I have to get to work.
Later
Sonny

The quickest/easiest fix would be to replace the EGR valve with a blockoff plate made out of a piece of flat-iron.The only vacuum lines you need are the distributor advance[which should come from the front r/h side of the carburetor] and one from the manifold to a tree on the firewall which feeds vacuum to cruise,AC controls,etc.

I just went through my truck and dumped all the vacuum lines that were not necessary. I replaced my manifold with an RPM performer (non-egr) and changed to a mechanical advance distributor so the only vacuum I'm running now is for my brakes, transmission, and heater controls. The truck runs much better and I've increased my mileage slightly.

If you don't have to deal with emissions I'd get rid of all that junk. Nothing beats clean and simple.

Are you sure the truck is a '77?
Like the fellas posted above, a lot can be gutted w/o sacrficing driveability, but you're best off keeping as much as you can original - the only thing I've found that makes a significicant difference is disabling the EGR. You SHOULD have a pressure transduced EGR valve - meaning it will only open when there's a bit of exhaust pressure AND vacuum at the valve. You can leave the valve on and intact - just pull and cap the vacuum line that used to go to it. Some EGR valves fail by opening (or being stuck open) by exhaust gas alone - then you may have some serious idle/ driveability problems - but you should have that now and your just asking about cleaning up the lines. Looking at the diagram there really isn't much to gut, but it is a very good idea to get your hands on the orginal vacuum diagram for your truck - you never know when the SMOG nazis come to visit your town or you move somewhere where they're at. Send me an email with your address and I'll get a copy of the one I have off to you. Even if you don't need it now, get it, seal it up in a zip lock bag, and keep it with your truck.
I just noticed user's are not allowed to post email addresses :-X01 this site is getting bad, so if you really want the diagram, post a wanted ad in the classified section and I'll respond to your address. :-tap

I'm sure glad I signed up for this. You people have have some great ifo. Just wish I could e-mail direct. Oh well, only 20 some posting to go. I see "ivanribic" replaced {"his, her"} intake manifold with an "RPM performer". Is this a brand? If Mortor Haven doesn't sell it where could one find it? I live in this little hick town and we don't have any real after market places. We do have Napa, AutoZone, Checker and a couple of others, but have to go to Tucson or Phoenix if we want to get serious.
Later, Sonny

Ya the Performer RPM is an Edelbrock manifold. Thats what I was thinking about going with. Right now I know my egr valve is jacked and aint cheap to replace. So I can replace the manifold and get an msd ignition setup and be straight. Nice to know. If you have a Parts Plus they sell them there but I just recomend E-Bay I always find stuff like that alot cheaper if you are willing to wait for the part.

ivanribic- Your truck will run even better if you get a vacuum advance distributor. The mileage will bge better to.

tetraruby300- Disabling the EGR will only help if it was malfunctioning. Otherwise it has very little effect on your engine performance and disabling it brings in a new problem of part throttle ping.



Use a dual plane manifold on a truck for low end torque unless you are mud bogging full time at 4000 RPM.

You can find much more engine specific performance information in the engine forums.

I posted a msg for ya tetraruby300. I dont like emissions much. But I do generally keep them on there and functional just in case the smog nazis do show up. I also move around alot in the military so there is no telling when I will end up in a place where that smog stuff will be necessary.So if you could send me that info I would be much grateful. The add info is below.

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Category: 1961 - 1979 F-Series
Subcategories: Drive Train/Engine
Description
I have a 77 F150 460 that is missing most of the vacuum lines. I would like to get my beast running good again.The previous owner removed most of them.I have the calibration number "8-97-RO". Tetraruby300 told me to leave a msg here to get some help.