95 f150 5.0 low power and quits when hot
 

Normally good running 5.0 is getting sluggish for power after 15 miles of driving. Then at idle it will start running really rough only for a few seconds then it stalls. Then won't restart and while cranking it acts like timing is out. After it cools for a couple hours runs normal. I replaced TFI today. Didn't do a thing. I have 140k, not using oil. No codes. Any ideas??

Just to add a little info, fuel pump and filter have about 20k on them. Not overheating. Good oil pressure, no smoke or noises. Cap, rotor,plugs,wires were new about 15k ago. Alternator is charging fine, battery is a couple years old. This just started out of the blue yesterday with it running weak. It quit at work. Then at break and after work no problem. Took a guess that TFI might be failing. Replaced it with a new one from advanced Auto. Did same exact thing today. I'll be digging for information. Got to figure it out. It's my daily driver.

When it quits and won't start you would need to check for spark and the fuel pressure. Then you would know which tree to bark up so to speak. From what you explained I would guess you are losing fuel pressure, ie a fuel delivery problem.

I'll have to check it out tomorrow. If it gets me home today. The fuel pump isn't very old but I realize that it could still have problems.
Only other symptom I forgot to mention is that for about 2 weeks now it has had to crank more to start when it is hot. That was another thing leaning me towards TFI. Cold, fires up quickly. Hot say after going into a store for 10 minutes it has to crank about 15-20 seconds to run.
I'm in SC, it's been in the 90's here. Just to give a reference to the air temps. It was 95 when I headed to work this afternoon.
The weird thing is how it was idling fine when I got to work. Smooth, normal. Then all of the sudden it gets really rough as if it's skipping and it shuts off. Crank it and it acts as if the timing is very advanced where it sort if binds and cranks hard, but it really won't start. Few hours later it's like nothing is wrong at all.
I will be checking fuel pressure for sure. I might even just swap out the filter anyway. It's been about 20k miles. Pump was new at same time.
I guess with the fuel injection it might buck and kick if rail is low for fuel pressure.
I will also be going over the ignition too just to see if I'm losing spark. Would the pip sensor in distributor cause this symptom?

Well, in my experience when an ignition component goes dead, temporarily or permanently, the engine just quits without any sputtering. That's why i suspect a fuel delivery problem. I also learned not to assume anything. So I may have to file this(in my mind) under a new category. I would surely check to see if you are losing spark or have an erratic fuel pressure.

Yes I hear what you are saying! I've been working on cars and trucks for years and you can never assume anything!!
I'll try to figure out which system might be killing it!
When it does quit it's fairly quick. About the time you realize that it is about to stall it's doing it. Today it went from smooth to rough and then dead inside of 5 seconds probably. I didn't think to listen for the fuel pump when I turned key back on.
I'm not ruling out wiring issues but it's a very unmolested truck in very nice shape so I think I'm ok there. But again, like you said, never assume!
I'll post any further symptom or results as I get them!

Yes, the PIP is your problem. There are ways to "clean"it and try it, but a new distributor is not out of the question,

I used the truck to go get dinner and it ran fine, it was still pretty hot out then. Just before dark. I drove it for 5 miles tops. No issues. It was mid 70's tonight when I left work. Truck ran like normal, no issues at all. I got home and let it idle for 5 minutes, totally normal, power was normal along the way home, as if nothing is wrong.
But the trip to work is a different story. Within 2 miles of work it loses power , it doesn't skip, just low power. Not like can't move power loss, but noticeable gutlessness. lol
And then it does the skip and stall treatment when I get there. Weird...
So what is a PIP failure symptom? If PIP is bad, how would it lose power but run ok, and then skip and quit so suddenly? Not questioning the suggestion, just hoping to learn a bit more about it.
I was thinking about the fuel system, and a possible weak pump relay, but then I would think that doesn't fit with the power loss even though it could explain the stalling.
I'm not ruling out anything at this point. I will start diagnosing everything. At least I may be able to rule out some things.

Ok boys and girls. Here we go. I got home last night with no problems. So as I can't stand random stuff like this I decided to replace the pip sensor. Ended up putting a new distributor in the truck. I was damaging the distributor trying to get gear off. Pin came out easy enough but even with a little heat it was going to be pounded off, wouldn't loosen up. I put new distributor in that came complete with cap and rotor. Issue is that I don't know where the sprout is located. On older trucks it us right near distributor. My 95 doesn't have one there. I'm short on time so I got it set by ear for now. Starts ok hot and sounds normal. I'll properly set it over the weekend. It's hot here again, about 95 so it's s good test for the heat and truck stalling. If I make it to work and it doesn't stall or run powerless I think I will call it a victory. For now I will just cross my fingers and head to work!

You should find the sprout ha ha, spout connector hanging near the driver side hood hinge. It sounds like you got a NEW(not rebuilt) distributor. That's good because most rebuilt distributors are junk. Where did you get the distributor and what brand was it? I hope that solves your problem but I have my doubts. Kindly keep us posted.

Sprout, spout whatever. Lol. I'll look for it tomorrow.
Yes brand new distributor. Advanced Auto. Carquest brand. $89.99 plus tax with cap and rotor included.
So far it works fine. 2 days in a row I had issues. Replaced this, no issues. Parts in this unit are probably made it china just like the motorcraft parts. Actually I think I have bought motorcraft parts that were made in Mexico. If this lasts half as long as the original it will be somebody else's problem! We'll see how it goes. It's already an improvement. Now let's see if it holds up. I'll locate the Spout and time it properly this weekend.

Another successful trip from work. Truck is running pretty well considering I set timing by ear. Power is consistent and seems normal. I think once it is timed properly it will be great

Make sure the ICM (TFI) you replaced is black in color and not gray.
The SPOUT:
Attachment 278891
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Checking for fault codes when this first started might have helped narrow things down instead of just guessing.

I don't have any fault codes. I give you that it was a guess but there was really only 2 ignition options that were most likely. Then it could have turned into something else like fuel system. As for ignition, the TFI us easy to swap and cheap enough to risk. When that didn't work, pip was next thing suspected. Brand new distributor with cap and rotor, $89.99. that was a guess I'm happy to pay for. And it was the issue. The truck is 25 years old. I drive it every day and will take it anywhere. I agree that taking the time to try diagnosing something is most practical for cost, sometimes I just don't have the time to fool with it and I don't mind replacing a few original parts on a hunch if it's easy to do. With people here and my own experience I usually get pretty close to any issues I have and haven't really wasted any money yet. In this most recent situation, if the 2 things I replaced didn't solve the problem, I was going to have to take the time to diagnose and sort out the problem. Luck was on my side this time. $140 in parts, back to reliable again. Cheap enough. As for codes, they aren't always reliable m sometimes I've found codes that aren't really related to the real problem and they just distract you. Plus I have obd 1. Not 2. Probably even less accurate. I've been driving this truck over a year and a half, 25,000 miles, and never have had check engine light come on except when you turn key on to start it. I bought a scanner for obd1. Checked it a couple times, no codes. Love it!!