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Originally Posted by JRB64
(Post 18612514)
D8TE-9C485-ADA is the number at the bottom of the Tag.
Engine related numbers are in the 6000 group, emission and fuel related numbers are in the 9000 group. Since this number is 9C485, it's not related to the engine. |
Originally Posted by NumberDummy
(Post 18612521)
This is the ID number for the label (tag) itself, it has nothing to do with the engine!
Engine related numbers are in the 6000 group, emission and fuel related numbers are in the 9000 group. Since this number is 9C485, it's not related to the engine. |
So I have an issue with my Turn signal on the Back Left Tail light. The Brake Light and the Turn Signal are very Dim and I have already took the Ground off behind the Light assembly and Cleaned them and the surface they are bolted to with no change in the Brightness of the Lights. Can anyone help with what else could be the problem with just the Left Rear Light being Dim. Thanks in advance for any help.
JRB64 |
I found on my truck that I had very weak grounding happening throughout the entire vehicle.
What I did to solve the problem was make my own ground connections that I knew were better than factory. I believe in total, I've added 4 common grounding points throughout my truck. 1) Frame to front clip 2) Frame to cab 3) Frame to box 4) Negative battery terminal to frame. These have helped me immensely over the last 2-ish years to resolve grounding issues when I couldn't find what the heck was going wrong. I still have gremlins in the wiring, but 95% of my issues disappeared into thin air once I did this. 6 thing's I used: 1) properly sized / clean / new ring terminals 2) an existing hole (cleaned) in the frame 3) bolts + nuts + lock washers 4) dielectric grease 5) 12 gauge wiring I had lying around (tested it for resistance before using) 6) shrink tubing At first, I thought I had solved all my issues by cleaning and re-using what looked like good existing grounds around my truck. Once I had everything clean and lubbed with dielectric grease, I took a piece of wire and ran it between 2 pieces of clean metal (frame + box). I saw my tail lights go from bright to brighter immediately upon touching the new wire between the two clean points; this is how I found out that my existing grounds, although clean, weren't so great after all. |
Originally Posted by Aaron-71
(Post 18630918)
I found on my truck that I had very weak grounding happening throughout the entire vehicle.
What I did to solve the problem was make my own ground connections that I knew were better than factory. I believe in total, I've added 4 common grounding points throughout my truck. 1) Frame to front clip 2) Frame to cab 3) Frame to box 4) Negative battery terminal to frame. These have helped me immensely over the last 2-ish years to resolve grounding issues when I couldn't find what the heck was going wrong. I still have gremlins in the wiring, but 95% of my issues disappeared into thin air once I did this. 6 thing's I used: 1) properly sized / clean / new ring terminals 2) an existing hole (cleaned) in the frame 3) bolts + nuts + lock washers 4) dielectric grease 5) 12 gauge wiring I had lying around (tested it for resistance before using) 6) shrink tubing At first, I thought I had solved all my issues by cleaning and re-using what looked like good existing grounds around my truck. Once I had everything clean and lubbed with dielectric grease, I took a piece of wire and ran it between 2 pieces of clean metal (frame + box). I saw my tail lights go from bright to brighter immediately upon touching the new wire between the two clean points; this is how I found out that my existing grounds, although clean, weren't so great after all. Thanks for all the Information. I am going to go pickup some Grounding Straps and Attach them to all the Body Parts from the Frame and also Run a Ground to the frame from the Connecting point on the Engine Block to the Frame. I use dielectric Grease and its the best stuff for keeping good and Non Corroded connections in these old trucks. I hope this will help but the Previous owner liked to use those Crimp type Blade Connectors and most of the time they did nothing but cut the wire and make for horrible connections. Im going to take all of them out and replace them with Heat Shrinkable Crimps so I will know they are getting good connections. Thanks again for your help, and it makes perfect sense. |
Originally Posted by JRB64
(Post 18606445)
I need to Do a Tune Up on it and Get it to the local DEQ station. Luckily it still has the Catalytic Converter on it. I sure hope it passes.
Reason I'm asking all those questions is because, as you can see, that engine decal clearly states "non-catalyst" on it. Which means that it came from a vehicle with an 8500GVWR or higher that year. Since you say your truck does have a cat, and it would be very unusual for someone to put one on where it wasn't required (although that's something I'd do, and did!) I'm just wondering about it. Hopefully it doesn't send up any red flags during inspection if they look for that kind of discrepancy. Paul |
Been having Oil Pressure Issues with my 351M and I figured out what it was. The Oil Sending Unit on the Back of the Motor was dislodged from the base where it screws into the top of the Block. What I figured out is the Oil Pressure Sending Unit was the Wrong one and it was too tall and when the previous owner put it in they forced it and broke the top of the unit off the threaded part. I put the new one in and there was barely enough room to put it in with the Vacuum Port that sticks out for the Transmission and the Brakes. Now the Oil Pressure sits at half deflection on the guage when its hot and about 3/4 when its cold. I was getting pretty worried that maybe the Bearings were done but I think its okay. It Runs like a sewing machine and I really like it. Lots of torque but by no means a race truck.
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Looks like she will be going in for paint within the next Month or so... I am going to do a little minor bodywork to it before I send it off. This truck is really finding a place in my heart and Im not sure I will be able to let this one go... Story of My Life...
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Awesome to hear you're getting some fresh paint on the beast!
And we hear you about letting it go. Countless threads on this forum on "wish I hadn't sold it".... These old trucks are bulletproof if taken care of. New trucks aren't! |
Originally Posted by Aaron-71
(Post 18645665)
Awesome to hear you're getting some fresh paint on the beast!
And we hear you about letting it go. Countless threads on this forum on "wish I hadn't sold it".... These old trucks are bulletproof if taken care of. New trucks aren't! AMEN!!! Problem is I have way to many Projects and they are stacking up... There is a lot to be said for getting one and working it until its finished... I really want to Finish my Wifes 67 Mustang and I think that is going to be my main push with this 79 Going to Paint Soon. |
The Truck went to paint and these are a few pictures of it as it sits now at the paint shop. Cant wait to get it back... they said 2 to 3 more weeks...
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...c42d9fedb.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...7cf3d9933.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...c6d9b0ab5.jpeg |
Originally Posted by 1TonBasecamp
(Post 18631635)
Interesting. What's the GVWR of the truck? Is it a swapped in engine, or maybe just the valve cover? Does your fuel gauge say "unleaded fuel only" on it?
Reason I'm asking all those questions is because, as you can see, that engine decal clearly states "non-catalyst" on it. Which means that it came from a vehicle with an 8500GVWR or higher that year. Since you say your truck does have a cat, and it would be very unusual for someone to put one on where it wasn't required (although that's something I'd do, and did!) I'm just wondering about it. Hopefully it doesn't send up any red flags during inspection if they look for that kind of discrepancy. Paul |
No problem. Thanks for getting back on that. Hope life is running smoothly and you can find time for some fun too. Well, "fun" with the truck anyway.
Makes sense on the swap. Glad you've got the history of the truck to work with. You don't necessarily lose low end from duals. It's just how they're done. Most might be tempted to go too big and that can effect a lot of things that need to be tuned out or just lived with. But a good single is still the way to go in my opinion. Or I even like duals run down the same side and did that to one of my Broncos. Easier to interconnect with an H-pipe/crossover that way too, which is almost always beneficial in out cases. But mainly I like having the extra real estate under the truck for other things. That black is sure lookin' smooooooth too! Paul |
Originally Posted by 1TonBasecamp
(Post 18856073)
No problem. Thanks for getting back on that. Hope life is running smoothly and you can find time for some fun too. Well, "fun" with the truck anyway.
Makes sense on the swap. Glad you've got the history of the truck to work with. You don't necessarily lose low end from duals. It's just how they're done. Most might be tempted to go too big and that can effect a lot of things that need to be tuned out or just lived with. But a good single is still the way to go in my opinion. Or I even like duals run down the same side and did that to one of my Broncos. Easier to interconnect with an H-pipe/crossover that way too, which is almost always beneficial in out cases. But mainly I like having the extra real estate under the truck for other things. That black is sure lookin' smooooooth too! Paul https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...48dd46adec.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...aff09db829.jpg |
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