very impressive work!

Wow nice job on this. Your work is top notch.

I’m curious how are you planning on fixing the alignment for the upper part of the doors? Mine are the same way, I have it pretty well aligned for most of the door but the tops seem to sink in just as your pictures show not sure if this is signs of abuse or a factory thing. I’ll be following this thread for sure.

Thanks!


Appreciate it! Check out my last build, I documented how I corrected the gaps here:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ld-thread.html

Well I was looking through it but unfortunately it’s hard to tell what’s what since photobucket decided to blur all the photos but I’ll keep watching the progress here

Not sure if this would work for others but if I go to here and then left arrow through the pics I can associate them with the text. Not great but not blurred for me. I am using a full Chrome browser on a PC.

https://s557.photobucket.com/user/th...584_n.jpg.html

If you're using Google Chrome browser you can add an extension that should fix the problem with photobucket pics, here's a link.

https://chrome.google.com/webstore/d...alioapbifiaedg

Another option is to find the album on our facebook page.

https://www.facebook.com/AndersonAut...1%3A1582310886

Wow, that's an impressive project and impressive work. looking forward to seeing pics of the finished product.
BTW was that a working 6 cyl tach attached to the steering column I saw in the early pics?
If so and if it's not going back in the truck I'd be interested in it.

My question 'theastronaut' is about your 2008/09 Ford Super Duty Floor Pan:
I have researched this floor pan option in the distant past from another FTE forum member thread.
Would you have the actual dimensions (length X width) of that floor pan when you received it in new condition?
I have a 1963 F100 Integral Cab ("Unibody") that is a shortbox but I believe my box floor is longer than your shortbox floor, but I have not measured them to compare.
I have found a oouple Ford Part Numbers for the 2008/09 Ford Super Duty Box Floor Pan Assembly and I wonder if the are the same as your Floor Pan Part Number???
My Ford Part Numbers are as follows: 8C3Z-9911215-B AND BC3Z-9911215-B

Thank you for your detailed build thread and for contributing to the FTE Forum.
You are a valued member offering other members valuable advice and techniques.
Please keep updating your build progress.
I await your reply on Part Numbers.
Many thanks & Best of Luck, Pete

Thanks! I'm not sure about the tach, I only moved the truck around the shop maybe 2-3 times before disassembly and I didn't pay attention to see if it worked or not. I can ask the owner if he's interested in parting with it.


Thanks for following the project! We used BC3Z-9911215-B, which replaced 8C3Z-9911215-B. Unfortunately the only version available anywhere is the newer version with the flat spots we had to have reshaped. The dimensions are 80 3/8" long by 48 7/8" wide. I trimmed 3 1/4" off the front to fit the '66 short bed length. I have since found a company called Evolutionary Rides that sells bed floor sections; that may be worth looking into. I haven't been able to tell if the rear of their floor panel is stamped with flattened ends or if you have to cut, shape, and weld the ends of the ribs into the correct shape. Hope this helps!

https://www.facebook.com/evolutionaryrides/

i bought mine way back in 2007 when they were only 300.00. Since then have used the 2011-14 bed floor in another truck.


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...fe1ed48dbf.png
Notice the date on tag.

I got a Ford Dealer price of $1,100.00 (retail) Canadian, and a friend who owns a body shop got his 'shop price' of around $850.00 Canadian dollars. Seems to be a crazy price and I'm sure they don't sell many of them.
My Unibody bed floor is rust free but dented up from loading the box with no bed floor protection.

Any updates on this great project?
I hopeeveryone is doing well.
COVID is areal game changer so be safe.

We are all healthy so far, and keeping the shop closed to the public to limit exposure.

The driver side of the bed is blocked and sanded up to 400 grit, and ready for a few minor touch ups, seam sealer, and paint. The passenger side is blocked but has a spot ahead of the wheel opening that needs more attention; it's leveled now but needs spot priming. I also bought a new tailgate from Dennis Carpenter and have started prepping it.


Here's a vid of the driver side wiped down with wax and grease remover to check for reflections. It's easy to make a panel look like it's straight from a still picture, but moving around at a low angle will really show up any ripples.

Getting started back on this one... The owner brought back the finished frame, that let me mount the bed and fabricate a filler neck, along with repositioning the center gooseneck stamping to use as a flat spot for the gas cap.

The frame- Coyote/Magnum T56 swapped with M2 front suspension and a four link in the rear.

Attachment 280671

Attachment 281645


I made a template to cut exact matching size holes in the ribbed section over the tank and the center gooseneck stamping so that they could swap spots without excesive welding gaps. Also bought extra thin cut off wheels and slightly thinned them myself even more for less kerf.

Attachment 281646


Double offset filler neck.

Attachment 281647


A normal gas cap would look to small and wouldn't hide the hole for the filler neck so I started looking online for larger caps with standard threads. Ended up finding an aftermarket billet cap for a BMW motorcycle that looked like a good fit for the truck. The tank is vented already so I removed the cap vent and drilled/tapped/plugged the hole so it can't leak fuel out onto the bed floor paint. The top was flat and sort of chunky looking to begin with but I liked the rest of design..

Attachment 281648

Attachment 281649


I used a mug (it was the right diameter :lol:) and an english wheel anvil in the press to dimple the opening around the filler neck.

Attachment 281650

Attachment 281651

Attachment 281652


Finished up. I used the lathe to slightly dome the top of the cap and round the edge, then sanded it smooth up to 1000 grit. I used a red scuff pad for a brushed look, then metal polish to slightly polish the cap without losing the brushed look. It could easily be fully polished if the owner wants to but I thought this finish might hide fingerprint smudges and scratches since aluminum is soft and its an item that'll see a lot of use/handling.

Attachment 281653