2002 expedition 5.4L coil pack info
 

Evening - I'm a newbie in need of your input and wisdom. I've got a 2002 5.4L Expedition with 4wheel drive. My #7 is misfiring, however, going up hill or stressing the pedal, it seems like more than just #7 misfiring. Anyway - I'd like to change out the plugs with Motorcraft OEM plugs as well as the coils on all cylinders. The truck has about 120k miles, original plugs and coils - and so I feel that if I'm going to replace the plugs - why not the coils too!
I'm reading about ohms, resistances, oil filled verses resin filled, and I have no idea what they are talking about. So, is there anyone out there that can simply recommend a medium priced coil brand that will operate as good or better than OEM, fit my truck, match OEM specifications and maybe even improve performance and gas mileage.

This is a thread a few lines down for Motorcraft coils.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-cop-deal.html

Rock Auto has OE Denso at a good price.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...tion+coil,7060

And definitely stick with Motorcraft plugs!

Your truck is gonna run WAAAY better!

Definitely use Motorcraft plugs.
The reason why not to change the coils is they are probably ok, it's your boots that may be degraded/bad.
Denso boots 671-0001 ($30/set of 10) work well.
Denso COPs 673-6000 ($27/ea) if you need the entire assembly.
Our 2002 Excur with 130k and 2003 Exped with 170k have most of the OEM coils, two have broken.
I change the boots/plugs at 50k.
Be sure to torque the plugs to 25-28 ft/lbs.

Fully agree there---too many times we read of engine issues after someone has used non-MC plugs, changing them back to MC mysteriously solves the problem. :) Oddly enough I've read a few doubters who claim the engine or PCM doesn't know the difference between plug brands---while I agree it shouldn't make a difference (all spec's being equal of course) but yet it does make a difference. Who'd thunk Ford designed parts to work and fit their trucks??? :D

On that note here's a good deal I found:

And my own "review" of them when received: Motorcraft DG-508 Deal found here:
HTH

2002 Expedition Coils
 

Thanks for the replies. Using MC plugs is cost effective - rather an inexpensive product not worth changing out to a different brand plug. But - the coils are a different thing. I'm not a mechanic and figure if I'm going to remove everything to change a plug - lets do the coils also. But - compared to other coil brands, even the least expensive MC coil is considerably more costly than after market brands. Is there an after market brand coil that some has used with success and satisfaction.

I just bought two sets of coils, one set from EBAY for $30 installed last week in my Expo and I haven't had any issues. Another set of OE Denso's for $197 from RockAuto that I'll put in my daughters Expo. I'll give her the good set since she drives a long distance home and they regularly visit. I'll replace her plugs as well with Motorcraft. Just trying to schedule 2-3 hours to do the work.

The last set of E-Bay coils I bought for my Expo was a few years ago and they just started having problems. I think I paid $50-$60, but the prices have come down and you can get a new set for $30. If you go that route, you may or may not have good luck. Some folks have had bad coils right out of the box, some go for years with good coils.

The Motorcraft and Denso (supplier of Motorcraft) coils will far outlast the boots.
The rubber boots are trying to contain the high voltage/low current pulse created by the transformers (coils).
If you change both at the same time you do not know if the problem was the boots or the coils.

If there's a "flaw" to that line of thinking it's advisability would depend on how handy you are when/if one of the cheaper coils fails? And c'mon---the set I linked comes out at $25.50 each which has to rival the mytical cheap but dependable long-lived aftermarket brands?

Sure some use any old thing that works, more concerned with cost than reliability. Having done the aftermarket thing and had them fail one-by-one I won't go that route again because I really don't like working on my truck unless its absolutely necessary and can be prevented by using better quality parts.

Sure some better quality parts fail sometimes right out of the box or soon after installation but they're typically accompanied by a warranty period. Had my own aftermarket COP's not been purchased through Jeg's I'd have been SOL receiving any sort of adjustment. Anyone whose had success or failures with any brand will usually come forward to share those experiences however reading through the FTE Modular Motor Forums for the past 8 years I rarely see an OEM part fail as quickly as most aftermarket parts, COP's and spark plugs being one of the biggest.

Spend what you think is fair and worthwhile--its easier to recommend when the money isn't ours! :)

Best of luck with this! :-X22

Well Hi folks ~ I'm about to change the plugs in the Lariat we just purchased ~ it has 184k in the odometer ~ have no Idea if they have ever been replaced ~ I've read a bit on the net about problems removing plugs on the Triton Engine ``` Like to hear what the people here have to say about plug replacement ```

As for Coils ~ seems like if they work ~ put them back in ```


Richard

2001 ?
If the plugs you remove are Motorcraft AGSF22WM they are probably OEM and lucky one did not blow.
The current replacement plugs are Motorcraft SP479.
Your coils are probably fine, but I would change the boots as they degrade - Denso 671-0001, $30 for 10 on ebay or Rock Auto.
Search for plug changing procedures, but it's not difficult, the hardest part may be just getting access to the plugs, especially the passenger side rear.
Be sure to blowout the plug well before removing the plugs, an amazing amount of crud can get down in there.
I change plugs/boots at 50k and torque to 25-28 ft/lbs.

Greetings R&T ~ It really messes with my head ~ reading the different torques ~ I've read/heard 13 to 28 ft lbs ~ I've always done plugs ~ using the super human ~ "that's just right" method ~ now hearing all the shop talk about this engine ~ I'm gun shy ~ know what I mean ```

Read through this thread posted some time ago here on FTE: Spark Plug Torque

Its good being gun shy sometimes as there's always a ton of information and misinformation on the internet. Even here on FTE there are several ways or suggestions how to best change spark plugs. To me the best approach is seeing what's most commonly done and follow that. Honestly those who claim "I don't need no stinkin' torque wrench---been doin' plugs forever........." is one great example of misinformation IMHO. If torque spec's weren't important they would be specified or published now would they? :)

To contradict my own self I don't follow the factory manual about spark plug torque as I DO use nickel-based anti-seize and torque each to just about 25 ft/lbs. The factory manual doesn't mention or discourage anti-seize but they do cite torque as 7-13 ft/lbs. Done properly with the torque wrench you have consistent plug tightness which pretty much assures you'll have them loosening up and being ejected later on.

I'm not the only one saying that approach is how its done, that for the most part and assuming the engine is already in sound operating condition none of us have reported problems with that approach.

Anyway that's my $0.02 worth---take it for what it is or worth. :)