Simplify a Motorcraft 2150
 

I was given a Motorcraft 2150 by a friend and thought I would give it a shot. It looks like it's been rebuilt once, but doesn't have a part number tag. It looks to be a newer model with altitude adjustment and an electric choke, but not so new as to have the ECU connections and variable bleed screws like the mid 80's models. Venturi size measures 1.21" and from all the searching I've done looks to be OEM from an AMC 360 motor. Jet sizes are currently 47 and 54. The engine in my '56 F100 is a '53 Lincoln 317 originally equipped with a Holley 4000 "Teapot" carb and four barrel intake. For a while I've run an Edelbrock 1405, 600 cfm vacuum secondary four barrel on an aluminum adapter. I've never really been happy with the Edelbrock after tuning and thought I'd try the "free" Motorcraft. Thus far I've built an adapter to mount the two barrel carb and picked up a rebuild kit just to go through it.

Not sure if this post would find more response else where but this is the area I most frequent. What I would like to do is to convert this carb over to a manual choke and to eliminate the altitude adjustment pot (anderoid assembly). Are these options for this setup or should I just get it rebuilt, mounted, and plumbed first?

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Motorcraft 2150 vs. Holley 4000 Teapot

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Dump both of those, they are scrap metal. If you want reliable and easy right out of the both, get a summit 600 com vacuum secondary carb. I have used them on 7 engines and they are flawless.

Pics: 1977/79 VV carb, the hated scourge of the world foisted on you by FoMoCo.


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Maybe I'm missing something obvious but it doesn't look like my carb is a variable venturi setup. Definitely does not have the terminals for feed back connection.

Variable Venturi image from WIKI not mine:

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...1c5ee58e7c.jpg

Venturi / booster assembly from my carb:

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...630a9c3cd9.jpg


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Or are you referring to the Aneroid and Pop it assembly?

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...92b01da626.jpg

Looks like a much different carb body and assembly.

If you want a 2150 carb check Ebay they run 80.00 new. That one is not worth rebuilding its actually not even worth paying someone to take it.

Your "new Carb" is definetly NOT a Ford Variable Venturi carb. They have a sliding top panel that changes the air flow through the top of the carb depending on load, etc. What you do have is a mid 80's 2150 that could have been on any number of Ford cars or Jeeps. My question mainly is with only two main jets, why you have 2 different sizes and why they would be so apart in size? A very good and simple carb would be a 2100 from an earlier Ford product without the smog equipment. They are easy to rebuild and pretty bullet proof. Beware of the NEW china knockoffs!!

"Beware of the NEW china knockoffs!!"

Okay why beware?

Please pardon the interruption...

You say you have a LYB 317 w/ a H4000. Is it a PASS CAR or HT engine? If HT, is the 4-bbl intake original to the engine or was it from a later LYB HT?

Could you post the CASTING ID NOS and DATE CODE please?

Don't can the H4000. Someone may be looking for one.

THANX!

X2 on the Summit carbs. They are a pretty basic but solid 4 bbl carburetor that is kind of a hybrid of a Autolite 4100 and the Holley 4010. And last I knew they were around $300. Great carb for the money in my opinion.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...00vs/overview/

The summit carb looks to have great reviews and well received, at 600cfm i feel it's a touch large for my use similar in size to the Edelbrock I have. The 2150 isn't necessarily the carb I would set out to buy, but the CFM rating (about 350cfm) is right on par for use on my engine and it was free. I have $20 into some gasket material and a rebuild kit, and a little time into a two to four barrel adapter.

The ebay Chinese knock offs are not inherently bad, but I've had some bumps along the way using them on ATV's. Leaking fuel needles, jets that were not drilled, bent needles. They are good for hard parts, just need to go through them before use.

My Lincoln engine is a 1953 casting EAD. It has a car block, pan, heads, valve covers, and intake. It uses a truck timing cover, water pump, fan mount, exhaust manifolds, and bell housing with a T98 four speed. I've changed the distributor to a rebuilt single chamber style from a mid 60's Y block and installed a Pertronix ignition module to ditch the points and condenser. I changed the drive gear to match the Lincoln tooth count and swapped the oil pump to a hex drive unit. Electric fuel pump to a Holley fuel pressure regulator set to 4.5 psi.

I'm going to swap this 2150 over to manual choke, but keep the aneroid assembly. It just means relocating my ignition coil.

I didn't remove them on my initial look over, just looked at the numbers. Just pulled them and measured with drill sizes, looks like the #48 jet was drilled out to match the #54 size. I'll have to engrave the new size for future reference.

Keep us informed on how it works. I have a 4100 with the 1.08 venturis I am thinking about trying on my 302. I have a 600 cfm Summit that really works well so for me there is really no reason to change other than curiosity and the opportunity to learn more about various carburetors.

I'm with gashog. Neither is anything other than scrap. Plus I read somewhere a long time ago that a carb can only be rebuilt twice successfully. Now if you are a masochist, then by all means go ahead and enjoy the pain of trying to make a rusted hulk functional.

Later!
Mr. Ed