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Any idea if they run a deal on bed wood? |
Originally Posted by 1954wrecker
(Post 18311959)
Any idea if they run a deal on bed wood? But, Chris, if you or someone you know has a router and a table saw you can make your own boards quite cheaply. How will you finish your boards? Let me recommend that for your truck with patina, you paint your boards. If you paint them you don't need to buy expensive red oak. |
Originally Posted by 1954wrecker
(Post 18311959)
Any idea if they run a deal on bed wood? John |
Originally Posted by abe
(Post 18312459)
Give them a call.
But, Chris, if you or someone you know has a router and a table saw you can make your own boards quite cheaply. How will you finish your boards? Let me recommend that for your truck with patina, you paint your boards. If you paint them you don't need to buy expensive red oak. Chris |
Originally Posted by hulleywoodworking
(Post 18312535)
I've got a full set of the red oak from Mid Fifty that I'm not going to use on my 51 F1. I'll sell it to you real cheap. PM me if you are interested.
John |
Originally Posted by 1954wrecker
(Post 18312568)
Also, why do you need a router? I have one, but I planed I’m doing all of the cuts on a table saw unless I’m missing something. Chris https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/NOgAA...0Wn/s-l300.jpg |
Originally Posted by 1954wrecker
(Post 18312568)
Hi Abe, I was leaning towards making my own boards, most of the F250 kits are close to $500 and another $100 to ship....I’m not certain on the finish but I might use a really dark almost black stain or paint them as you suggested. If I use paint, what’s the recommended wood? Also, why do you need a router? I have one, but I planed I’m doing all of the cuts on a table saw unless I’m missing something. Chris If painted, what kind of wood? I'll defer to guys that have more knowledge about wood. I bought and made my own wood (with help from a wood working friend) from red oak bought locally in 1999. When I painted my truck again in 2016 I used oil based paint tinted to match my Meadow Green to paint the red oak after I sanded the spar varnish off. Two boards were checked and split at the end. I replaced them with 1x6 treated boards from Lowe's. The original boards were Northern Yellow Pine grown in Ford's forests in northern Michigan. Modern pressure treated lumber is Southern Yellow Pine. |
Originally Posted by 52 Merc
(Post 18312772)
The boards have a rabbit on the edges for the metal strips to fit into. You could make them with a router or I suppose a dado blade on the table saw could work, too..
Abe, what did you use? Chris |
I took my boards to a woodworker friend. He has everything a guy would need. We used a router table. BTW, have you seen the page that show the exact measurements for the boards?
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Originally Posted by abe
(Post 18313073)
I took my boards to a woodworker friend. He has everything a guy would need. We used a router table. BTW, have you seen the page that show the exact measurements for the boards?
|
Originally Posted by 1954wrecker
(Post 18313188)
Only for a F100, do you have a source for the 250/350? |
board measurements
Originally Posted by abe
(Post 18313073)
I took my boards to a woodworker friend. He has everything a guy would need. We used a router table. BTW, have you seen the page that show the exact measurements for the boards?
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White oak works well if the truck will be outside. It's used a lot for docks in NY. A guy I know also swears that black locust is better than any P treated stuff.
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I’m not a wood aficionados but I had a guy tell me red oak is bad for a truck bed because it absorbs water? If it’s not going to be outside then maybe it won’t matter. |
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