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2 barrel carbs
I have 2 carbs that came with the truck, the one that's on it is a c3tf-h.
The one that came with it has motorcraft stamped on it, 2uaa is stamped where the c3tf-h is on the other one. It also has a sticker that says. "Holley remanufactured 5337(5057" Wondering if anyone knows anything about these. Im going to go through one to get this thing running, if one is any better than the other ide like to go with that one. Eventually I will get a 4bbl intake and carb, but this will make it run for now so I can get the rest of the truck in order. |
is this an autolite 2100 and an autolite 2150?
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Is this on a 292? My 292 has a Holley 2300 on it. They were used on engines as big as 390. I believe 2100's were used on engines as big as 400. I just rebuilt my 292 and I'm still running the 2 barrel. Big difference with a fresh engine and a good cam.
You can buy brand new 2100's on flebay for about $75. |
Yes, this is a 292. Maybe they are the same carbs with different style chokes. I am not familiar with any of these carbs so not completely sure if its a 2100 or not, or if it is even correct for this truck. Seems the c3tf-h was a truck carb from '63ish?
Ill post up some pictures of what i have here in a bit. |
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Originally Posted by weldworks
(Post 18242456)
I have 2 carbs that came with the truck, the one that's on it is a C3TF-H
The one that came with it has motorcraft stamped on it, 2uaa :-huh is stamped where the C3TF-His on the other one. It also has a sticker that says. "Holley remanufactured 5337(5057" The Motorcraft carb is at least from 1973, as there was no such thing as Motorcraft prior to 1973. Note: 3 lower pics of carb in post #5: This is a Motorcraft 2100 series 2V from 1973 or 1974. The tip-off is the choke pull-off diaphragm (9J549 in pic at lower left) mounted in the airhorn. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...4bcbd8f35d.jpg |
Any benefits to the newer Motorcraft one? Or should I just stick with the manual choke one that's already on it. They both need a good cleaning, but if ones better than the other I'm just going to leave the lesser one alone and not spend any time/money on it.
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What I have surmised is that these are the same carbs, one is automatic choke one is manual. Does anyone know if they are different other than that?
I am not sure if my truck even has the correct features on the manifold for the hot air tube hookup, I will have to look tomorrow. After spending some time learning about how the auto choke works, if my truck has the place to hook up that hot air tube it seems like the way to go. If not, obviously the manual choke it is. Though, I suppose I could fab up a heat box if I am missing that feature on the stock exhaust. |
The earlier carb is a better carb to be honest. These are the simplest carbs on the market and about the best.
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Notice the "clock" casting embossed on the side of the housing. 1.02 and 1.08, these refer to the inch size of the Venturi. All truck 292 equipped engines shipped with a 1.02" venturi carburetor in 1964, I don't think it makes too much difference. The stock exhaust is somewhat restrictive and a larger carburetor may not gain anything for you. C3TF-H is correct for F100-250 I would use whatever carburetor of the two that is in best overall condition, to include the throttle shaft wear in the housing. With long use the shaft wallers out the bore holes and introduces vacuum leaks that kills smooth idle and tuning for off idle acceleration. It will never run right. The fix is to ream out the holes and install bushings, this is a bit much for most hobbyists. The 2100 is a very excellent design and is worth spending some time tuning properly. Most of the stuff that needs done is often just cleaning up tuning mistakes and mismatched parts made in the past by folks who didn't know any better. The specific shop and carb manuals are readily available today for download at no cost to you to setup and adjust them perfectly. Take your time, start from the beginning, pay attention to detail, and you'll see why they are still so popular today. |
Tedster and Numberdummy thanks for the help!
I am a machinist so while reaming the shaft bore out wouldnt be a big deal, its a toss up here, both of these carbs seem to be in pretty nice shape. I am not a hobbyist, but I have no history at all with Y blocks or these particular carbs, so I really appreciate the nerd info you guys gave. Its cool to have a collection of people that are honed in and focused on one or a few particular things, creates quite the catalog of information for the ignorant. (edit here: not to imply you guys are one trick ponies and this is all you know.) Ill likely go with the newer carb, the automatic choke setup seems to work very well after reading about it a bit. The exhaust as a whole is pretty cobbled up and done on this truck, and ide like to get rid of that goofy front crossover tube, so Ill probably just start from scratch there and fab up some headers, unless you guys know of any off the shelf that bolt on and fit an F500? |
Ram horn manifolds, straight pipes, and maybe Smithy or Porter steel pacs. Nod your head "yes"..... |
:-X04
Sounds like a plan. I see some aftermarket ramhorn manifolds, any better than others? are there original ones i should be looking for, or are they all pretty much apples to apples? quick search, looks to me that the outer 2 bolts on some are offset and some are in line with the rest...any other differences a guy should be aware of? |
Yeah, be very careful on the used ramshorn manifolds, the Lincoln Y Block type, will not fit. The manifold bolts in Ford Y Blocks are not angled or offset, they should be straight across or parallel. I would buy them from Mummert's. They are kinda spendy, but few engines sound as nice as a Y Block. I was able to snipe a pair of the overseas castings at a decent price and they seem to have worked out OK, but... |
The carb with the automatic choke won't clear the coil. Plus you don't have the heat stove to heat the spring and make it open. The hand choke unit has the pull on the drivers side? Then stick with it.
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