2005 F250 6.8L V10 - Build Thread
 

Hey all - I had previously used my own question post about exhaust as a quasi-build thread for my truck. However, I wanted to start over with one thread dedicated to the different progress/changes on my truck. I'm going to quickly run through the progress so far and then use this central location for all my future updates. Sorry for the redundancy, but this will be simpler for me in the long run.

I traded in for a 2005 F250 CCSB King Ranch with the 3V 6.8L V10 with 120k miles. Very excited, got rid of a 2010 Silverado Z71 with 106k miles that had more problems (electrical mostly) than I was willing to continue dealing with. Those trucks are also prone to leaking through door seals and high mount brake lights, and I've been chasing the problem for 2 years...finally gave up. Also had multiple sensors going out, issues with the AFM crap (4 cyl ECO mode) and started burning oil despite a pristine maintenance record since new. Been a chevy owner all my life (5 trucks), but I think I've converted for good. Main reason we went shopping though was our son on the way. We realized his car seat didn't fit in an extended cab while still allowing any leg room for my wife. She actually found this new truck and we worked the deal down to a trade in + them giving me additional cash and a few other benefits.

Here's what she looked like right after rolling off the lot:
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...db0922473f.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...0a4afeeab9.jpg
Buying a one owner truck from TX with carpet in the bed and negligible scratches on the bed paint makes me feel pretty good about how hard it has (err....hasn't) been worked :-X22

I definitely wanted to remove the topper. I think it would be nice, but I need an open tuck bed more than the covered storage. Got it sold in no time and my old toolbox put back in:
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...cb0022feaa.jpg

I also worked into my trade-in deal that they would swap out my tires from my old truck...same size as F250 stock and they were very lightly used BFG AT KO2's.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...cccaf1be5d.jpg

So here's what I call my real "starting point"


What I needed to do immediately:

• Fresh oil change to get on schedule
• 2 broken exhaust studs
  • I decided to go with JBA Ceramic headers and replace the manifolds
  • I also wanted to replace the muffler

Regarding the exhaust, I wish I had saved a lot of time and cash, just fixed the 2 studs and reinstalled manifolds. I like my headers, but I can tell they are going to require consistent monitoring to keep the bolts tight and prevent leaks. I'm still chasing what I think is a leak, but can't be certain it's not just amplified valve train noise. I can't find a leak with my stethoscope, but it sure sounds like one somewhere on the driver side...To be continued.

As for the muffler, STICK WITH STOCK ON 3 VALVE V10's! I found all the forums talking about the firing order, engine tone and exhaust drone from these motors too late. Precisely, "two aftermarket mufflers and a resonator later before returning it back to stock" too late :-banghead Oh well, it happens.

Next, I installed some RECON LED cab lights:

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...317e33d8ac.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...e36cab6864.jpg

And then I fixed the old marker lights that had lost their amber coating, thanks to an FTE member pointing it out!

I also installed LED 6000k headlamp bulbs from Beamtech and love them.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...6e27b378bc.jpg

I don't have photos but I also did these items:

• Replaced my fog lamp bulbs with Beamtech LED's as well to match the headlight color
• Matched the front windows to factory 20% rear tint
• Greased slip yoke to eliminate "thunk" from take off

That brings me to current! I do plan on the following still and will be much more diligent in photo's along the way. I know these step by step threads have helped me countless of times, so I will do my best to pay it forward.

• Header bolt tightening
  • I'll document the process I go through to be able to reach all 20 bolts
• Coolant flush (no previous record)
• Spark plug change (no previous record)
• ATF flush/change (no previous record)
• Cleaning up the faded rub rails
• Diagnose what I think is a faulty HVAC Re-circulation valve/blend door
• Diagnose faulty seat heaters (I'm sure it's the burned wire element)
• Replace shocks with new Rancho's
• Line-X (Christmas present to myself)
• WeatherTech mats front and rear

Sorry for the long post! Glad it's all in one place now though.

Truck looks great!

In addition to your current list if you haven't yet I would recommend changing all the fluids in the drivetrain. If you can spring it I would recommend Amsoil in everything except the transmission. They have extremely long service intervals and if you're just going to be pounding pavement it should be cheaper in the long run. Transmission service interval is still 30k even with Amsoil and it's expensive so I stick with motorcraft.

Looking forward to future posts! Also, how dare you steal that fantastic truck from Texas! Bring her home! :D

On a side note, if you weren't already aware, we have a resident transmission expert (literally worked at Ford development) who can probably recommend some good checks for your transmission. Since you'll be down there with it anyway.

I'll take all the advice I can get! And thanks for the compliments. She's in TN now. Still down South my good man! :-X06

Checking off my list...
 

Got a few things done on my truck last night that have been lingering at me for awhile now...wife went out with the girls and took baby boy along for some oohs and ahhs and cheek pinches.

ESOF Auto 4x4 Troubleshooting:

Short story, mine wasn't engaging. Manually locking worked fine, dash lights all came on (so the 2 relays on the driver side are fine), and no vent-to-defrost only issues when switching to 4x4 (rules out vacuum leaks).

Time to diagnose where the offender was. First, I engaged parking brake and set the front end on jack stands so I could turn the tires by hand and help in troubleshooting. Then I hooked my MightyVac to the hoses right behind the hubs on each side. Both held vacuum and engaged the hubs with about 15 in. Hg. Cool! The more involved of the common issues is ruled out.

Next I moved up the vacuum lines and into the engine bay. There line from the hub has a joint right below the heater bypass valve. I unhooked this and checked vacuum all the way down to the previous check points. Again, held 15 in Hg no problem.

From here, the line runs to the pulse vacuum solenoid (Spoiler: This ended up being the culprit). The line (black) connects to a 2 port elbow on the bottom of the solenoid. The other line here (red) comes from a tee in the HVAC vacuum lines, which goes on to connect to the vacuum reservoir, which receives negative pressure (vacuum) from the manifolds. Note: On a diesel, the reservoir vacuum is generated by an electric pump mounted right beside it. On gas motors, it comes from the manifold.

Once I verified there were no leaks between the solenoid and the hubs, I figured it had to be the solenoid. So, I started the motor, hooked up my vac gauge to the line immediately on the other side of the solenoid, switched to 4x4 with the dash switch and.....nothing. Pulled off the two port elbow from the solenoid and there was plenty vacuum coming from the HVAC lines into the solenoid, so I'm confident the solenoid is the problem. I'll order one sometime soon, but it's not a burning issue to me. I don't mind manually locking them.

Greasing front U-joints

These trucks have all "sealed for life" joints/chassis except the front 4x4 drive shaft u-joints. This was just on the to do list since I got the truck in September. Both zerks needed to have the grit wiped off and the passenger side took grease no issue. The driver side on the other hand...apparently the internal grease was all hardened and nasty. It just spilled out all around the zerk. I tapped on it with my wrench, cleaned it up, pushed in on the check ball with a needle, still no luck. I don't have one of those fancy grease joint unclogger tools, so I just used compressed air and blew air into the zerk as best I could. Well. that worked! Took grease just fine after a few blasts of air.

Then my lady got home and it was bedtime for the little guy. I read him our nightly story and then relaxed on the couch by a fire with my wife and few cold ones. Good Friday in my book!

I have built 2 V10s I like them
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...aa3bf31eb4.jpg

@CousinJordo sweet truck. :-jammin

When you change the rear diff fluid if you don't plan on an aftermarket cover which are unnecessary. The 08+ aluminum cover's fit with longer bolts, look great and budget friendly. :-X06

Try AutoNation White Bear lake, well known for low cost on OEM parts. :-jammin

https://parts.autonationfordwhitebearlake.com/oem-parts/ford-axle-cover-8c3z4033a

Headers are off!
 

As I'd stated before, I removed my headers from my truck.

Yes, I am mad at myself about spending the money only to undo it all. Such is life.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...b86b020c20.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...563dd21637.jpg

Subscribing. Not sure how I missed the original post.

Tranny fluid
 

That's the way to do it. Quick, easy and effective.