1972 f250 brake problem
This is my second post of this. I had it in the 73-79 forum on accident and i didnt know how to move it over so i am reposting I have a 1972 f250 with a 390 and disk brakes in the front. I'm having issues with the front brakes it leaking from the nipple thing on the distribution block or proportioning valve not sure exactly what it is maybe someone can help me figure it out or where I can get a new one or a rebuild kit of some sort ive tried looking everywhere only place i have found it was ebay and its gone now lol heres a pic of it hopefully it helps
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...34b48b3f71.jpg |
Originally Posted by Brian9568
(Post 18212781)
This is my second post of this. I had it in the 73-79 forum on accident and i didnt know how to move it over so i am reposting I have a 1972 f250 with a 390 and disk brakes in the front. I'm having issues with the front brakes it leaking from the nipple thing on the distribution block or proportioning valve not sure exactly what it is maybe someone can help me figure it out or where I can get a new one or a rebuild kit of some sort ive tried looking everywhere only place i have found it was ebay and its gone now lol heres a pic of it hopefully it helps
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...34b48b3f71.jpg 1968/79 F250 2WD & F350 ~ No Ford dealer or obsolete parts vendor has any. Note: Some 1973/79 F250 2WD's have single piston caliper disc brakes, do not use this valve. |
It's not needed replace it with a brake line tee.
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Originally Posted by ford390gashog
(Post 18212977)
It's not needed replace it with a brake line tee.
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Originally Posted by Brian9568
(Post 18219172)
thought about doing that but didn't know how important it was. Figured it was there for a reason must have some sort of use besides being a splitter
The momentary delay by the metering valve is designed to give the rear brakes a head start so that all four brakes apply at about the same time. Discs, without a hold-off, would apply immediately when the brake pedal is stepped on. Drums don't respond immediately because they have mechanical components to overcome before the shoes begin to make contact with the drums. |
Here is some good reading. Hope it helps.
http://www.fordification.com/tech/propvalve101.htm |
Originally Posted by Lrrr-RulerOfOmicronP
(Post 18224277)
Here is some good reading. Hope it helps.
http://www.fordification.com/tech/propvalve101.htm https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...490aa62d3a.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...79dc89f160.jpg |
Originally Posted by ultraranger
(Post 18219526)
The metering (hold-off) valve does have a purpose. It momentary blocks fluid pressure from going to the front discs, in order to give the fluid pressure acting on the rear drums time to overcome the tension of the brake shoe retracting springs and start moving the rear brake shoes towards the inner friction surfaces of the drums.
The momentary delay by the metering valve is designed to give the rear brakes a head start so that all four brakes apply at about the same time. Discs, without a hold-off, would apply immediately when the brake pedal is stepped on. Drums don't respond immediately because they have mechanical components to overcome before the shoes begin to make contact with the drums. |
Originally Posted by ford390gashog
(Post 18212977)
It's not needed replace it with a brake line tee.
Originally Posted by ultraranger
(Post 18219526)
The metering (hold-off) valve does have a purpose. It momentary blocks fluid pressure from going to the front discs, in order to give the fluid pressure acting on the rear drums time to overcome the tension of the brake shoe retracting springs and start moving the rear brake shoes towards the inner friction surfaces of the drums. The momentary delay by the metering valve is designed to give the rear brakes a head start so that all four brakes apply at about the same time. Discs, without a hold-off, would apply immediately when the brake pedal is stepped on. Drums don't respond immediately because they have mechanical components to overcome before the shoes begin to make contact with the drums. Rebuild kit and instructions- https://www.musclecarresearch.com/co...-valve-rebuild |
Originally Posted by ford390gashog
(Post 18212977)
It's not needed replace it with a brake line tee.
Never bypass or disable a brake component. |
Originally Posted by KULTULZ
(Post 18299344)
THANK YOU! for catching and correcting that ...
Rebuild kit and instructions- https://www.musclecarresearch.com/co...-valve-rebuild |
Originally Posted by GaryKip
(Post 18302971)
After reading this thread, I decided to buy the rebuild kits for both the metering valve and the proportioning valve, from muscle car research. With shipping it was only slightly over $20. That site has great instructions and pics of how to clean and install the parts too! While you are in there, stick your finger into the MC RSVR BOWLS and see what is on the bottoms. |
Cop cars and taxis of the same vintage used them, too. I've found a current repro for a Mopar from inline tube. I think its the same, but with a different mounting bracket.
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