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-   -   Engine Rebuild Basics - 302 (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1551521-engine-rebuild-basics-302-a.html)

MikeIronTyson 08-14-2018 08:20 AM

Engine Rebuild Basics - 302
 
Hello all, I've been living over at the 1980-1986 Bullnose section but I have become interested in an engine rebuild. I have a 1981 F150 Ranger XLT w/ a 302 that I'm doing a restoration on. Recently I've been working on the cab and fenders I've picked up for it and sent it off to a local mechanic for timing adjustment and transmission kickdown adjustment. Now he hasn't done the work yet but if there's too much slack in the timing chain and that needs to be replaced, I've been thinking about beefing up the engine while I'm at it, currently the engine sounds strong but it could have 150k or 250k on it, not enough records on hand to know for sure. I've been scouring the web on builds and am privy to the 331 stroker route. With that I know comes "just start off with a 351, you'll be happier in the long run". Although I have that option at my disposal, I do not want to go down that route at this moment I just want to take what I have and work on it so let's not get into the weeds about that. That being said, I've been forums and I have 0 understanding about any of this engine rebuild game (surprising right? the guy who hasn't learned to do his own timing). Both brother-in-laws are master mechanics but live far away enough that its hard to have time for them to walk me through it. I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction on what I can read/study to have a better understanding of what I need to know before I embark on this journey and have a good enough base to purchase the right parts. Thank you.

Conanski 08-14-2018 12:59 PM

Get yourself a copy of , it's a step by step engine building procedure and spec reference.
You will see other books "suggested" at the amazon link that are more focused on perfomance upgrades, lots of good info in those too so put them on the list but you want this particular book for sure.

SDDL-UP 08-15-2018 12:35 AM

+1 on the book!

Also check out diyford.com - excellent stuff there!

as far as your engine is concerned, yes stick with the 302 if that's what you want. The number ONE thing you can do to really improve performance is a better set of cylinder heads and appropriate camshaft. A stroker kit is fine, but you need heads to support the increased cubic inches.

MikeIronTyson 08-15-2018 10:03 AM


Originally Posted by SDDL-UP (Post 18141279)
+1 on the book!

Also check out diyford.com - excellent stuff there!

as far as your engine is concerned, yes stick with the 302 if that's what you want. The number ONE thing you can do to really improve performance is a better set of cylinder heads and appropriate camshaft. A stroker kit is fine, but you need heads to support the increased cubic inches.

My BIL said the same thing about upgrading camshaft. So some E7TE or GT40P heads correct? The salvage yard near me has a great selection so I shouldn't have any problem sourcing these.
Once I get the heads, I install the heads with the rockers/springs/etc that come with the heads on my existing block with new camshaft and new stock bottom end parts?
Am I looking at upgrading my 2 barrel carb to a 650 cfm or 4 barrel 650 cfm one or will I be okay with my stock carb?
Should I go ahead and get a double roller timing set too if I'm having to replace the chain anyways?

Sorry for the flood of questions. Basically I guess what I'm getting at is, with new heads and camshaft, can everything else remain stock or will I need to upgrade other components.

MikeIronTyson 08-15-2018 10:09 AM


Originally Posted by Conanski (Post 18140143)
Get yourself a copy of this book, it's a step by step engine building procedure and spec reference.
You will see other books "suggested" at the amazon link that are more focused on perfomance upgrades, lots of good info in those too so put them on the list but you want this particular book for sure.

Paul, I actually read the first 30 or so pages on a book preview for that book prior to your post and was able to find a pdf version of it for free. I'm also looking at George Reid's - How to Rebuild the Small-Block Ford, I'm sure between the two most topics should be covered.

Conanski 08-15-2018 05:55 PM


Originally Posted by MikeIronTyson (Post 18141737)
My BIL said the same thing about upgrading camshaft. So some E7TE or GT40P heads correct? The salvage yard near me has a great selection so I shouldn't have any problem sourcing these.
Once I get the heads, I install the heads with the rockers/springs/etc that come with the heads on my existing block with new camshaft and new stock bottom end parts?

Consider buying a complete '92+ truck motor to get E7 heads and a roller cam block. Don't buy a 5.0HO from a Stang.. .it will have been shagged within an inch of it's life. Even better if you can find a '96-97 Explorer 5.0 that gets you GT40 heads and roller cam. No need to replace the crank and rods usually either, just bearings, pistons and rings after it has a visit at the machine shop.


Originally Posted by MikeIronTyson (Post 18141737)
Am I looking at upgrading my 2 barrel carb to a 650 cfm or 4 barrel 650 cfm one or will I be okay with my stock carb?

You will need more induction but depending what heads and cam you use a 500-550cfm may be enough. Upgrade the stock intake too.

SDDL-UP 08-15-2018 08:58 PM

MikeIronTyson,

I like to think of cylinder heads as the heart of the engine - the power potential of any engine begins with the cylinder head. I also like to think of the camshaft as the brain of the engine - how and where power is delivered is determined by the camshaft I.E. It controls the personality of the engine.

For a 302 you only have two choices for a decent factory cylinder head...

1 - a Boss 302 head (good luck there!)
2 - one of the GT40 heads (P or X and I forget which is better)

Ulimately you will acquire heads, select a camshaft, buy a cam kit or the appropriate valve springs and take them to a head shop for a rebuild. They may need new valve guides and valve stem seals as well as resurfacing of the block side of the head. When you get them back it will be a simple bolt on to your block, and as you said add you existing rocker arms.

MikeIronTyson 08-15-2018 11:34 PM


Originally Posted by Conanski (Post 18142407)
Consider buying a complete '92+ truck motor to get E7 heads and a roller cam block. Don't buy a 5.0HO from a Stang.. .it will have been shagged within an inch of it's life. Even better if you can find a '96-97 Explorer 5.0 that gets you GT40 heads and roller cam. No need to replace the crank and rods usually either, just bearings, pistons and rings after it has a visit at the machine shop.

You will need more induction but depending what heads and cam you use a 500-550cfm may be enough. Upgrade the stock intake too.

If I went with the 92+ truck motor then I’m looking at swapping the intake manifold to work with my carb and getting valve covers for the PCV valve to work with the vacuum system correct?

xlt4wd90 08-16-2018 01:36 AM

Not to hijack the thread, but I want to verify something based on what I just read from Paul.

My 1987 Mustang GT is still running smooth, not burning any more oil than it did when new, but it has over 180k miles on it now. Every gasket, except the head gaskets, have been replaced once, but the replacements are starting to leak now. I think it's time to give the engine an overhaul. I'm thinking new pistons, rings, main and rod bearings, timing set, and have the block checked by a local shop, and honing if necessary. Anything else (other than new heads)?

Conanski 08-24-2018 05:27 PM

Yes send the shortblock out to a machine shop to see what it needs, let them tell you what oversize pistons, rings and bearings it needs and then buy your parts.

Conanski 08-24-2018 05:39 PM


Originally Posted by MikeIronTyson (Post 18143003)
f I went with the 92+ truck motor then I’m looking at swapping the intake manifold to work with my carb and getting valve covers for the PCV valve to work with the vacuum system correct?

A carb intake will bolt right on and the EFI valve covers do have a PCV port.


xlt4wd90 08-25-2018 10:02 AM


Originally Posted by Conanski (Post 18157930)
Yes send the shortblock out to a machine shop to see what it needs, let them tell you what oversize pistons, rings and bearings it needs and then buy your parts.

Thanks Paul. I checked with a local engine builder for a rough estimate, and it was rough. Of course, it was a speed shop, so even they admitted their prices were high, and they had a 2 month wait, plus about 2 months to do it. It would be easier for me to buy a short block from some place like Coast High Performance at about half the cost.

baddad457 08-25-2018 06:49 PM


Originally Posted by MikeIronTyson (Post 18141737)
My BIL said the same thing about upgrading camshaft. So some E7TE or GT40P heads correct? The salvage yard near me has a great selection so I shouldn't have any problem sourcing these.
Once I get the heads, I install the heads with the rockers/springs/etc that come with the heads on my existing block with new camshaft and new stock bottom end parts?
Am I looking at upgrading my 2 barrel carb to a 650 cfm or 4 barrel 650 cfm one or will I be okay with my stock carb?
Should I go ahead and get a double roller timing set too if I'm having to replace the chain anyways?

Sorry for the flood of questions. Basically I guess what I'm getting at is, with new heads and camshaft, can everything else remain stock or will I need to upgrade other components.

Hold the phone here ! Last thing you want to do is try to squeeze more power out of that 81 302 block. It's got a weak crank and the block is missing 16 lbs of iron vs the 79 blocks. All this spells trouble in trying to hot rod it. Get a later 5.0 roller engine to start with. Either a 94-up pickup or van engine, or an Explorer 5.0. The 93 T-Bird had a good package too.


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