351w roller efi to carb swap distributor help
 

It's possible to use the EFI distributor to trigger an aftermarket ignition amplifier, like MSD. But without the EEC, its timing will be fixed.

You can use an old style vacuum/centrifugal advanced distributor if you replace its drive gear with a steel version to match the roller cam shaft. That will also give you the simpler wiring that points need.

Get a points distributor and replace the gear to steel and convert to electronic with something like a Pertronix unit.

Sure you need to ? That looks like a steel gear, it's not rough cast on the top portion. The shaft length doesn't matter.

Look at Rock Auto. I am getting a dist from them for my 302 its a Cardone one brand new with a steel gear for $50.99. Im going to use it on my '94-'96 long block I am buying for my '82. I would check with them and see if they have a 351W dist with a steel gear already installed I am sure they do if they have a 302 one with a cast iron gear and a steel gear for Dura Spark II.

There was never an O.E application for a 351W Duraspark II distributor with a steel gear, so I doubt Rock Auto will have that.

So there was an application for a '82 F150 302 with Duraspark II with a steel gear? I could see with a HO engine but didn't HO engines in the 80`s not have Duraspark II?

No, the only application was the 85 Mustang 5.0 with a manual transmission. The automatic cars that year had a flat tappet cam. Pickups didn't get a roller cam until 1992

Ok, well I didn't look it up on rock auto as a 85 Mustang 5.0. I looked up a 82 F150 with a 302 and it brought up the Cardone Select 842831 distributor that was listed as new with a steel gear for $50.99.

That is why I was wondering what the application would be. Guess rock auto just list the same item for everything it will fit. In the end for me doesn't matter as its cheaper going that route for my '94-'96 transplant than spending $60+ for a steel gear then buying the tool to pull and install the gear from my current Cardone dist I have.

What tool ? I did two using a hammer, punch and a drill

There is a company that the engine builder I know told me about at work yesterday my boss has one I have to get the brand name again but they sell the tool that pulls the gear off and installs the gear by pressing it. My understanding is its like a power steering pump puller/installer in how it functions. But he also told me to run the stock dist I have now cause it will be fine. I don't think I want to trust running a cast iron dist gear with a roller cam, factory or aftermarket. If I go with the crane cam they have listings for steel gears as recommended also.

Yea, don't run a cast gear with a roller cam. Who told you that ? Your Boss or the builder ? If the builder I'd run away from him. The Boss ? Well that's not as easy.

The builder but my boss is just as bad when it comes to parts. The engine builder he told me that this explorer cam is going to be a dog when I told him the specs. He is one of those hit and miss guys. I always take it with a grain of salt, no a whole shaker of salt. I wouldn't have him build me a engine, he builds a damn good GM performance engine but the ford performance engine he built for us for a customer we had to pull 4 times kept losing oil pressure, the cheap aftermarket heads kept breaking threaded studs out, etc.

Ive also worked on cars half a year later that we put the motor in and the motor is just covered in oil leaking like crazy. But he knows his stuff some times so I don't mind asking him.

Boss on the other hand I just ignore 90% of what he says when it comes to performance.

That's why I am looking at this 94-96 block, not only is it roller cam so it should last me forever, it also has a one piece seal. Im also going to run felpro one piece pan gasket and rubber permaseal valve cover gaskets. I want this engine to have no leaks internal or external.

The one piece stuff leaks too. Bolts work loose over time and need to be tightened ever so often. The one piece rear seal leaks too over time. Nothing's perfect. The F4TE cam though is a really good cam, despite what you've been told. Specs with 1.7's are .445/.473 lift, 256/266* advertised duration, 116* LSA Really comparable to an "RV" style cam. Works great with a carb too. generates a lot of vacuum that lets the circuits respond faster. That motor I built would fire up in 25* temps with no choke and no pump shot with the gas pedal. All you had to do was crank it a few seconds and it would fire off and idle just like it had EFI