1963 f250 project
 

Hey guys I have a project that I plan on starting this summer it's been sitting in my backyard for far too long it's time to get to it. My project is a 1963 F 250 4x4 it has a 4 speed on the floor and a 292 engine as far as I know the tail lights and engine are the only parts that aren't original these trucks apparently came with a six-cylinder. The truck runs and drives when the battery is charged. I intend to post pics of the progress. In the meantime I have a few questions for anyone willing to jump in. My intention as of this moment is to restore the truck primarily keeping it original. The truck is geared very low possibly 4. 11. how can I tell how low its Geared without taking the rear end apart? And how difficult is it to regear these old trucks? How well will the old drum brakes hold up if I rebuild them? The ride is pretty stiff aside from major changes to the suspension like chttps://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...80ee941c58.jpg
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oil overs is there anything I can do to take out some of the rigidity? I'm trying to do most of this on a pretty modest budget by the way. Any other thoughts or suggestions that come to mind when you read and look would be appreciated! Thanks in advance!

Post a pic of the data plate or vin and someone will decode it for you. That would tell you what engine it came with.
Put a mark on the drive shaft and on the tire and have someone count the # of times the shaft turns for the tire to
a revolution. You can also see if there is still a tag on the diff cover. Check out some you-tube videos on changing
ring and pinion gears. It can be challenging. Welcome to the fun.

4th digit of the VIN is the engine code: C = 292 2V; J = 223 1V I-6.

Your F250 has a Spicer/Dana 60 rear axle, possible ratios (with 4WD) could be 4.10-1 & 4.56-1.

Post the AXLE code stamped on the 2nd line-far right of the Warranty Plate, riveted to the left door face below the latch.

The suspension is fairly rigid because it is on (probably sagging) leaf springs. Coilovers are essentially a shock with a stiffening coil around it to help reduce body roll or allow for lowering. They would make the ride even stiffer if all you did was add them. Instead you could get new leaf springs or you could try having your springs re-arched. It is the arch in the leaf springs that provides for movement and once they sag to a point they lose a lot of movement.

In a 4x4 I would not recommend removing leaves from the stack since there are design considerations when doing that.

Bottom line is it will ride rough since it is a 4x4 truck from that era. Make sure everything is up to spec and it will help.

Chad

The bed is incorrect. It has a shortbed on it, not the correct 8' version ( note large gap between cab and bed ). Bed originally could have been a flareside or styleside if it was built as a pickup, or it could have been built chassis cab only, and a special aftermarket bed was installed when new. For '63, 4.56 was standard 4.88 option on F 250. A professional rear end shop could swap out the ring gears and carriers, but as usual, will cost quite a bit of dough. If that's too expensive, a tall and narrow tire ( 9,00-16 ) would help out also. Drum brake are fine with a power assist such as a hydro vac system or booster system.