Thank you. After extensive searching to the far ends of the internet it appears that no one else in the world has used the quick connects on the pressure gauge so it must be a bad idea. I can use what I have, it will just take longer.

I put together an STC (I think it is) to NPT adapter so I can connect my air hose to the HPOP hose then open the valve on my air hose and have no mess. Let me see if I still have the pics.

I am not sure that I am following what you are looking to do. Here is a picture of what I use to test my HPO rails. I have an extra HPOP fitting, that screws into an adapter that my air hose quick disconnect fitting fits into. I cut a notch in a circular saw wrench with a dremel drill and it works great to disconnect the HPOP hose at the pump. I hook my air hose up and can apply all the pressure my compressor will muster without making a mess. Other fittings are available and if you want to build a different setup you should be able to do it.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...3a5c64a7bb.jpg

That is very clever. It's not what I am trying to do but I still will copy your idea and build one. lol thanks!

I was trying to use the quick disconnect fitting like what is on the HPOP line to hook my pressure gauge up to for quickly changing configurations to test the HPOP supplying oil to each side (individually) or dead head the pump. The only quick connect fittings I see for sell are the lower halves, not the top like on the hoses.

I suppose I could get a HPOP oil line and get a fitting like you have a picture of and fit it to my gauge on the other end ? Just wondering if it would be worth the trouble since I haven't found anyone that has done it. If it was a great idea, I figured that I'd see some how to's or parts lists out there to make it.

I can just unscrew the lower half of the quick connect and screw in the fitting that's on my gauge to the HPOP. Slightly longer and harder to get at but not unreasonable. Your wrench idea is a good one too.

Here is a whole heap of options for you, the ORB to STC adapters are around page 27. Then you can get ORB to NPT adapters to get your other fittings to connect. I have a hydraulics shop near me that happened to have everything I needed in stock. If you have an idea and it works for you go for it, that's all I did, nobody else pieced my set up together either but it works well for me.

STC fittings

Thank you! I'm pretty good at 'googling', or at least thought I was, and couldn't even find the name of the fitting that are on the hose ends. I called 2 of the local hose building places around here and they said they didn't know what I was talking about but if I brought it in they could try to match it. Didn't leave me with much hope of success. 1 even said that he did not have any quick connect high pressure fittings,they were all threaded. Now I can speak more intelligently about what I'd like to have made. I'm saving that pdf. Thanks again.

UPDATE:
My work schedule lately has been 6 days a week, 12 hours a day. So when it came time for some vacation I took full benefit from it. I also saved a few days for repairing the ol 7.3.
Here's the latest.
I had very little success trying to perform the Cody test. Either it passed or I didn't do it right. It would have been better to have the correct fittings and a gauge and shut off valve but I didn't so I stuck the air nozzle in the HPoil line and listened. Didn't really hear anything.
I had purchased the o rings for all of the injectors and VC gaskets and wiring harnesses for both sides. A high pressure test gauge and hose.
This is my first attempt at really 'getting into' this engine, it's just been sensors up to this point. I performed a buzz test of all of the injectors first. Actually number 8 is the only one that sounded suspicious.I pulled the driver's side cover off and replaced all of the o rings because it is the easiest to get to. No obvious signs of leakers but I'm an amateur at best. The truck wouldn't start so I couldn't run it with the VC off before hand. After I replaced the injector o rings I hooked everything up and the engine started! - all of the injectors were spitting oil like they should. I quickly turned it off and reinstalled the VC and tried it again - it wouldn't start to save my life. I was fit to be tied. It was doing a long crank time before the oil pressure gauge would show anything so I thought I'd take the ball valve under the HPOP out and clean it. It didn't look bad but at least this could be written off the list.
It's at this point that I went to NAPA and bought some fittings to dead head the HPOP. It hit approx 4000 in just a few seconds.
I put everything back together and tried it just because I was getting sick of this thing beating my hands to death. My steel lines are a bit frayed and poked holes in my fingers. I taped them up while I had them off - time for some new ones.
Anyway I hooked the computer up to the truck and it cranked for quite a while then it the injectors started to fire... could this be... yes!..... It started ! Now I'm as happy as a cat at a dairy but deep inside of me I am wondering what really happened. Did I actually fix it? or did I? It's running, hard to argue with that. I found no smoking gun. The wires under the VC were in pretty good shape. It appears one of the glow plugs wasn't working but I can't testify to that in a court of law, it just looked different than the others. Profiling as one would say.
I still need to do the other side since I have the parts. Here is the question....Since the #8 injector sounded a bit muffled compared to the others I suppose it should be replaced? Is there a different way to check proper operation? I've read here somewhere that the buzz test only really tells you if the circuits are good to the injectors, not the proper operation. Could someone please elaborate ? thanks
Here's a screenshot of the truck idling after it had been running for about 20 minutes. Does this look normal? Running stock injectors and the tuner was removed.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...4fbc44940c.jpg

If you question one injector move it to a different hole and see what you get.

I can see your logic in moving the injector but I don't know how to tell if it is bad no matter which cylinder it is in. call me stupid but..... I am. ;-)
Is there a test in the AE that will tell me if it isn't working perfectly?
I'm changing all of the glow plugs so I don't care to test the old ones. I'm trying to get this truck as reliable as possible. Replacing possible worn parts with new Ford parts.

If you swap out #8 with #2 and the buzz test then shows a problem at #2 you know it's the injector, if it stays at #8 you'll know it's something else like a wiring or connection issue. You can run a cylinder contribution (CC) test and that will tell you if there's a difference between them but #8 almost always shows up in that test, I think #3 does also.

What about the harness that runs above the valve cover? It could be shorting out on the cover and there for it didn't start. Buzz test is electrical, which means if it's weak it could be the coil or need to be shimmed.

Walleye, Ah, I get it now, good idea. To minimize down time I would like to have an injector in hand in case that it is a bad injector but I don't really want to buy something that expensive if it is unnecessary. However if I knew how to test one in place beforehand then that would be great.

I will check the wiring that I can get access to and reperform the buzz test on my next day off. This sounds like a rookie question because I am a rookie - Are there any other tests I can do to check proper injector operation?

Due to my current work load the truck was down for about a month because I just didn't have much time to deal with it once it died. This has put ALL of my other chores behind as well. Hopefully in a week we will be back to 40 hours a week instead of 72. Life will get better after that.

The truck is running really well but I'm planning a trip in Oct and plan to have the new PS o rings in place by then and change the front DS wheel bearing out (already did the PS bearing) to hedge my odds that there won't be any trouble while out on the road.

Last year while on a bike/truck trip 1100 miles from home the truck broke down and it costs $2500 only to break down again 180 miles (and a state away) into the return trip which added 2 days of extra burnt vacation, motel room bill and another $1500 garage bill. While I did recover a good portion of the first bill the unexpected stress to put it bluntly "sucked"........ Reliability is a good thing.