This is a fantastic build/restore. I often have dreams of doing this to an EX one day......

That thought brings me to this one. With the time and money being spent here, I would think, for me anyway, one would look to a certain coach builder to have a 2016 type of EX built.

Not taking away from what you're doing, this will be a beautiful truck when complete.

I got my original frame stripped out. Pulled the engine, exhaust, then the transmission/transfer case, fuel pump and lines, all the electric lines. It's just the frame, axles with wheels and tires and fuel tank/skid plate. If I get a chance I'm going to pull the fuel tank/skid plate to see what condition it's in and see if Carbon Coupe wants it. I pushed the frame outside and it's nice to have that frame out of my way. I've started working on the wiring, a couple areas need attention, and then it will go in the new frame. I also started pulling stuff off the block to replace all the pullies, hoses, o-rings, basically anything on the outside that is rubber, or that leaks, turns etc. I've ordered parts for the engine, axles, so once stuff starts coming in, I can keep busy between the frame and engine. I'll be posting part numbers as stuff starts coming in and I know it is the correct part.

I only have one picture right now
The engine coming out.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...3dc98f548d.jpg

I appreciate that a great deal. :-X22

Couple of observations: I see you use the Kroil, good choice. Im up for buying another case soon, on my last can.

From the looks of the frame and other bits, Im thinking the tank tub wont be too bad... hopefully.

I have been working on getting parts cleaned up and painted. I got few things installed. We'll start with the radius arm bushings. These took a little sleuthing to figure out, mostly because of terminology. I have seen them called bushings, insulators, isolator. What vehicle they fit and where they go was not always correct and sometimes just confusing. The part that goes into the axle is 5C3Z3B203BA. You need a total of 4 and they come 2 to a box. The part that goes into the radius arm itself is 5C3Z3B203AA. You need a total of 2 of these and there was 1 in a box. They are different sizes.

Here's what they look like. BA (axle) on the right and AA (radius arm) on the left in both pics.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...40cde73b0a.jpg

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...33d572b6c8.jpg

They all 6 came out with a hammer. The 4 in the axle pretty easy and the 2 in the radius arms a little tougher.
Going back in the axle was easy, I had painted all the parts and was going to strip the paint off of the contact areas but decided to see how hard they would go in. I didn't use oil or grease or anything to lube. I took a piece of all thread I had laying around, some pieces of pipe, drilled holes in some flat steel and they went right in. After I had installed them I was looking in the shop manual for something and that set up is basically what the special tool is that Ford uses.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...ff5a24de25.jpg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...7c440ed813.jpg

The passenger side gets pulled all the way in
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...6c4edbb4f7.jpg

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...0b73b4ed4a.jpg

On the driver's side I centered the bushing (this pic is from my other axle since I forgot to get this pic before I ionstalled my radius arms)
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...3b862c0a5f.jpg

The radius arm bushing were tougher. I started with the same setup of all thread. The problems 1) my pipe pieces were just a hair too big and started bending the shoulder of the bushing over, 2) the pipe being too big also caused the pipe to move around and not stayed centered, 3) the radius arm moved around unlike the axle, 4) I should have cut the all thread to a more manageable length, 5) the leading edge of the bushing wouldn't center in the hole, the bushing edge might have been ever so slightly too big, 6) the 2 sides of the radius arm kept wanting to come together. The solutions; I took an oak 4x4 and bored a hole to fit just over the center of the bushing, that fixed 1 and 2 above. I ditched the all thread and used a big arse c-clamp, that fixed 4 and made 3 more manageable. I took a hammer and eased over the leading edge of the bushing, that fixed 5 above. I blocked between the two halves of the radius arm which took care of 6 above. I also used oil to lube. That all worked as I was able to get them in. Not as easy as the axle side, but they went in. These bushings also go in and get centered just like the drivers side on the axle.

The block of wood
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...03b58b0f3d.jpg

The set up
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...1fc76446ae.jpg

There is no mention in the shop manual on replacing the bushings in the radius arms. They sell them, so it must be intended to do, but I found that all the Ford radius arms come with the bushings installed.

I also installed the inner oil seal in the front axle. I again used the all thread method. The spicer part number is 2019816. This seal looks different than the seal that came out. I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be in this seal, but the old ones had a lot and I think I'll be glad I went ahead and replaced them.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...f08564a278.jpg

Old seal on the left, new on the right.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...8212b48bb7.jpg

The new seal is not as thick
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...e5630bfbfd.jpg

The cone area of the seal doesn't seem to be as big, so I hope the axle shaft finds it's way in. I did see a plastic guide tube for the inner seal, part #53987, but I couldn't tell from the pic of the seal if I needed the guide tube or not. I hope I don't regret not getting it. With the new dust seals I hope the axle shafts go in easily. Should know in the next day or two.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...29b417d9e5.jpg

Here it is installed. I pulled it in flush with the hole on the differential side. (sorry, not the best pic)
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...2107883a70.jpg

You’re going to want the axle guides in there before you put the axles in, it saves the seal from getting damaged when installing the axle, fwiw.

if I understood you correctly!

the dust seal have nothing to do with the Alinment of the axle.

I put the newer axle dust seals in that get installed into the axle tube not on the axle shaft. I had already installed the inner seal when I posted above and didn't want to take them back out. I installed the axle shafts and they slid right in. The dust seal did give me the ability to move the end of the axle shaft around. It is kinda hard to see in the pic but the new inner axle seal does have a bit of a cone to it. It might be that I was just lucky. If I had realized what the new inner seals were going to look like I probably would have ordered the guides too, that weren't that expensive.

Forgot to take a pic of the dust seal, but here is one off of the net.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...54cc166726.jpg

Oh, ok I didn’t know that they would work on our trucks!

thanks!

I'm upgrading to an 2006 Dana 60. But I recall somebody saying that they are available for the Dana 50 too.

Also the part number for the dust seal is Dana 2014835, for the Dana 60.