ebpv pedestal rebuild? or buy new??
 

Hey guys , i finally bit the bullet and got a turbo rebuild kit from sp turbo and looking forward to the rebuild ( or actually the results, Ha!). so while i have the turbo out i was thinking of putting on the turbo master wastegate, and either rebuilding the ebpv pedestal or buying a new one. Its about a $200 difference but im a little worried about the rebuild because there is a chance i might not get the tension correct or if the cylinder wall is scored i would have to take it to a machine shop to get honed out. I use the the ebpv everyday while towing for a exhaust brake so its pretty important that its in good working order. Am i way over thinking this? im leaning toward just getting a new one since its faster and i know it will be right.( also i can probably sell my old one on ebay) Thoughts??? Also was wondering if im missing anything while i have the turbo out? i have the 4 oring kit for the pedestal from riff raff already, but should i get the 2 bolts that come with their pedestal kit? Is it ok to start squirting pb blaster on the rusty turbo bolts and keep running the truck? Potential fire hazard? thanks for any input

I rebuilt my EBPV. It really isn't that hard. If you've ever used a brake hone, that's all you're doing. I ran the hone in and out until it was nice and smooth. I put all new Garrett parts in and used a pull scale (fish scale) to set the preload. All in all, the EBPV rebuild only took about a half hour. As far as PB Blaster, I would (and did) spray the bolts for several days prior to tearing things apart. Heck, on mine there was enough oil and diesel in the valley that the PB Blaster was the least of my concerns for a fire hazard!

You don't even need a brake hone. It didn't leak because the wall is scored, it leaked because the o-ring on the piston dried out or such. I got the tube brush kit from HF, cut the ring off the end of the biggest one, chucked it in my drill and wrapped it with a green 3M ScotchBrite pad until it was tight in the EBPV bore. Sprayed a little WD40 on it and cleaned it right up, nice and smooth.

Setting the proper tension was interesting, and buying a new one doesn't eliminate that job, it still needs to be done. Someone had posted this link from DieselOrings to describe how to do it. You need to remove the EBPV pedestal to set the adjustment. My kit didn't come with a jam nut, find one you'll need it.

thanks saint, I wasn't aware that I would still need to adjust the tension if I bought a new one, good to know. Where did you end up finding the jam nut?

It's a common thread, can't remember what, but I have lots of old nuts laying around. Could've been 1/4-20 or metric, M6 possibly. I also threw a split washer on there.
I also came up with a little spacer to hold the piston rod out enough to allow me to install the turbo w/o having to pull on that piston rod. Otherwise that spring is pulling the turbo back while you're trying to bolt it in place.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...c1279387ed.jpg
The spacer is that U shaped piece of metal between the jam nut and the EBPV body. After I assembled the turbo and pedestal and adjusted the spring, I made that piece a little longer than the space. That way the valve control rod is loose in it, making it much easier to drop the turbo on it in the truck, and not have that spring pulling on the turbo. Once everything was on, just pry the valve shut a bit more and the spacer drops out, and you fetch it with a magnet, or tie a string to it.

Deleting the EBPV is another option, it only serves to aid the engine in warming up, and also to eliminate smoke during extended idling. In both cases the EBPV is never actuated while driving, so it's not something you'd normally miss. Only if you live in the cold and let your truck warm up in the winter. I'm actually putting mine back on cause I do want the warm-up feature again.

my tow tune, which I use everyday actually uses the ebpv has an exhaust brake to help slow everything down. It works great for Towing. If it wasn't for that I would just do the ebpv delete.

I have always wondered if this was good or bad as "everyone" says that having a large difference between boost and exhaust back pressure is bad. How much exhaust back pressure do you normally see when using it as a brake? It is something I always wanted to do but never did. Not saying it is bad to do as many do and have done for years but it does seem to go against the boost ebp delta is bad statement

Hey brandon, i can't remeber what the back pressure is at the moment but can check it out tomorrow while towing. i have used the exhaust brake for a couple of years now and love it ! it only kicks in while decelerating, once i hit 37 mph it will activate as it downshifts. my rig is anywhere between 20,000 - 30,000 lbs everyday, so every little bit of stopping power helps. i don't know enough about the boost / ebp problem to comment on though. I do think there might be something going on with my ebpv as the engine feels like it has some resistance while accelerating. one of the bigger reasons i want to rebuild / replace the ebpv.

Hey saintltc, i was just curious why i would have to set the tension on a new ebpv? Do they not come pre set? or is it because every turbo is going to be a little different?

ff lc freak, i was reading on diesel o-rings site and they said not to use a brake hone as it will leave more scratches in the cylinder that you started with. I guess this didn't happen to you, did you use a certain kind of hone? ebpv looks very simple to rebuild and would like to save money over buying new, but wasn't sure about making the cylinder bore good and smooth.

The setting is relative to where the EBP valve is on the turbine outlet housing. I guess technically they should all be the same, but that assumes it was set when originally assembled. It's always possible it's just assembled. I don't know how important this setting is, and from here on I'm guessing how I think it works. I believe the EBPV is an on/off thing, meaning it's not controlled to a middle position. It's possible this setting is designed to limit it from going completely shut, engine oil pressure at idle wouldn't be enough to overcome the increasing spring pressure as it gets compressed. But a mechanical stop on the turbine outlet would do that.

I don't have a scale like that shown in the instruction set; so I bolted the whole assembly to a piece of plywood, clamped it to my workbench, and ran a piece of steel wire from the EBPV actuator over a bolt sandwiched in the vise clamp on the end of my workbench, and hung about 10lbs of wrenches on the wire. It was really annoying setting all that up, and like you now I was questioning the why of it the whole time.

:-huh This is straight off of Riff Raff's site - EBPV Pedestal Rebuild Kit 99-03 (2C3Z9P466A)

"The key to a sucessful EBPV rebuild is to get any signs of scratching and wear from the piston cylinder. A small brake
cylinder hone does a great job of removing minor scratches and wear from the cylinder bore and prepares it for the new piston."



I had a nice gouge in the wall of my cylinder. I have no idea how it got there, but I got the truck used. I used a small, 2 arm brake hone that I've had for years. It worked great. I used lots of WD40 and kept moving back and forth. I put it all back together and it's been working great. I no longer have oil in the valley. I don't have a ton of miles, maybe 5000 since doing it last fall. But, it's been winter here, and it's actuated a LOT over the past few months on many short drives. Still no oil seepage that I can tell.

:-drink

:-offtopic Ouch! An Alero over a full size Bronco? :-X18