Fate of 88'
Fate of 88' This old Ford is getting a new chance. Never would have dreamed of salvaging what is a sorely neglected and forgotten workhorse. F-150 that sat fourteen years in a farm feed shed. Straight 6, with 4 speed changed over from original auto transmission. XLT Lariet trim. Straight metal with stealth patina. Not currently running, engine is 'free' , and smooth as silk. Partially robbed of the quick pickins, previous owner saved from total dismemberment. Assessing the overall condition, the first major decision is on the emissions system. Well aware of the benefits of a good operational system. Basically have two questions. How hard to source the major components in good working order? (Pump seems ok, rest is far gone) Will the truck operate efficiently with an alternate set up? (what alternate configuration works best?) looking for experienced opinions, appreciate your views! |
Before you get overly invested in that 6, it would seem to me that you have an excellent candidate in hand for an engine swap. The transmission was already swapped and perhaps you should first investigate this as to quality of work. Is it a clean transplant using the proper OEM pieces, or is it frankensteined together?
I understand the appeal of that straight 6, but if you are building a truck that you may actually want to drive, a 5.0 is a lot easier to live with. I don't know if you are subject to emissions testing, but even if you keep the 6, it may be easier and less expensive to find a complete engine with all the plumbing. |
Well, it is a clean conversion done at a local franchise of a national transmission shop. So good there i believe. Really not interested in an engine swap, but that thought is certainly appreciated. This truck will NOT be a highway cruiser, more of a backwoods bruiser, may never leave the farm in fact, so the six will fit the bill there. Not sure of being easy to live with? Lol emissions is no worry to me and, this IS a truck I want to drive, there are other vehicles for other purposes, this is a farm truck......expressly now about that emissions question??? Anyone been down this road either way successfully? |
Well, if you're going to make the emission system work again, go the JY and get everything off of a JY donor. As far as building an "alternate" system? No good info to pass along on that. You would be building your own system from parts so I can't advise on that point. If it's never leaving the farm and will not touch public roads, just go with no system at all.
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Agree, should have said no system. Alternate = no system. As a carb guy and new to fuel injection, is there a big problem created by deleting the emissions? Or, are there certain things that have to be done for the F/I to retain its functionality and prevent engine problems. Having a hard time weighing the one against the other. Seems like the exhaust side would be simpler without the catalytic converter. If it'll run clean and free of problems, it makes sense especially if the emish components are hard to source in good usable condition. With what you know, which would you guys choose? |
The majority of the under hood clutter is from the AIR system, which only exists to feed the factory catalytic converter more oxygen when cold to help it get to temperature faster. If you delete the converter or replace it which a modern high flow unit the AIR system can be deleted with no running problems. The TAB and TAD solenoids should left in place and electronically hooked up otherwise you will have a lit CEL. You can delete the associated tubing and vacuum lines. You will have to plug any AIR injection ports in the cylinder head or exhaust. The AIR pump can be left in place as an idler pulley, replaced with a idler pulley, or deleted all together and you will need to run a smaller belt. Some folks report running the stock catalytic converter without the AIR system without problems. The ideal solution IMO is to run a modern converter and delete the AIR system. You will have a cleaner engine bay and truck will still pass a sniffer test if ever needed in the future.
The EGR system should be left in place and repaired if necessary. The fuel vapor management system should also be left in place and repaired if necessary. |
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...489e20dc45.jpg Great info R&R! This is getting printed out / prioritized! Many thanks. Will retain the EGR and fuel vapor components after identifying them. This sounds like the way to go for me. Still have to get the fuel system working and engine restarted, but this provides direction as the rest of the truck falls into place. Will be changing both tanks and other components as necessary. Going to pull the bed off, and drive it as a fish head first! Will get some pics up as we move along. Dropped the inner fenders off yesterday and cleared the debris, thats what led to the emissions questions and fresh thread. Appreciate all the replies and comments! |
Removing the intake to plug the air injection ports, so wondering if someone has a method for cleaning the outside of the manifold? The alloy looks nasty. Also interested in cleaning the inside for flow. Any tips? Are there 6 of the air injection holes in the head? Have used the allen screws on other vehicles, anyone know the size? Wondering also if there are any other items to replace or refresh with the intake off. Will be redoing the vac lines and getting the new engine harness in place also. Deleting the 'air' part of the emission and retaining the EGR part. Thanks in advance. |
A cheap Hazard Fraught wire cup on a cordless drill did a decent job of cleaning up a plenum I had off my daily a while ago. It wasn't great at getting into crevices but it did pretty well on what it could reach.
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2many, sounds good. Pulling hoses now, quick pic. Anyone have a pic of an air deleted bay? Are the injector cooling tubes the air tubes? Trying to see what all can get gone. Will play with the finish on the outside to clean it up some. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...1e75a6bf77.jpg Lot of hose to go https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...d9243d8960.jpg Do the hard rails under the intake come off? |
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https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...a05b22a416.jpg Looking for the ports to plug... Upper is off. Focusing on the injector ports to plug now. |
Found em' Out they come! https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...d0da6840bf.jpg Easy way, cut your tubes close enough to gat a 6 point socket over the nut part or tit will split https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...e5636add7b.jpg Mc Master Carr for some recessed head allen plugs and then reverse back to get to the restart. Engine. |
Anyone know this thread size offhand? |
How deep the vermin? https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...5879de275b.jpg Dirty rats! https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...b91a3bca71.jpg The beat goes on...awaiting wiring harness.... |
I still haven't fully removed all of the smog garbage on my truck yet,but found a shorter belt that works with the smog pump removed. I posted it here with the number and how I routed it.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...mp-delete.html |
Thanks Onion, mine has a/c tho. Think it needs an 81" belt. The pump is coming off, but bottom bolt acting like it wants to break, so may be hacking the bracket. Trying to be patient with it....... Hopefully close to reversing this tearing apart routine! |
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...73af6d1b1e.jpg Rear tank not as good as it looks from the outside. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...24125d5cb4.jpg Lot of access with the bed off https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...aa165a0371.jpg Maybe put a flatbed on the back. Bed is off. Have some missing wiring and both tanks are bad. curious about the 'lizard tongue' in the filler necks! The hoses inside of hoses, these still available? Also found ALOT of play or slack in the differential, so need to diagnose that. At least i can see the shape of the tanks, actual shape I mean, and a great view of the rest of the back end! |
Originally Posted by yellercat
(Post 17866948)
Removing the intake to plug the air injection ports, so wondering if someone has a method for cleaning the outside of the manifold? The alloy looks nasty. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>eagle one etching mag cleaner |
I'll check for that Eagle product McLeod, thanks! With bed off, discovered a lot of play in the rear end going into the diff. The driveshaft will freely rotate about an inch (slack). Not sure if it is anything i am qualified to further diagnose and repair. May remove and replace or take it to the eebuilder. Any suggestions on best way to proceed appreciated! Got alot of the surface rust off the frame and will be coating with rust converter today, maybe a pic when its dried. Still have to get the hard to reach spots later as parts are r&r'd. |
Pic of the frame with an area of each pre treated, just applied, and one of fully dried. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...97f3755455.jpg Makes quite a difference fron the scaling and flaking, messy surface rust. |
Originally Posted by yellercat
(Post 17960921)
I'll check for that Eagle product McLeod, thanks! Maybe paint stripper first to get the coating off, then the aluminum cleaner. ??? Those damn mice can get in the funniest places. Looking like a project to keep you busy for sure. Keep up the momentum. |
Yeah, this one wore plum down to bare metal, so the etcher should take fine. Yours looks super by the way, may copy the blue lettering on this one. Going to focus on restarting soon since most of the pieces are here now. Probably a good idea before it gets much deeper, lol. Looking like a restoration now. |
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