How about these FICM numbers
 

I've been noticing some low FICM numbers when my motor is cold. I started my truck with an oil temp of 51.5. The FVP was 12 and the FMP was 41.5. It's kicked into high idle now.

85 WT
83 EOT
43.5 FMP
12.0 FVP

I'm going to drive and do a few errands before I go home. Fairly warm now, at idle.

121 WT
119 EOT
45.0 FMP
12.0 FVP

I'll post numbers while driving when I get home.

I notice that as soon as I started driving the FVP went to 12.5-13.0 and the FMP to 48- 48.5. Now even at idle they are 13.0 and 48.5. I pulled into an Autozone and I'm going to have them check my batteries.

Just a matter of time before it's dead for good. Get it fixed now to protect the injector coils.

Both batteries good, both at 89% charge.

My own thoughts is anything below 47 (really 47.5 for my own) is toast. It’s not going to matter what the batteries are.

Watch Logic Power at start up, FLP. Dips to under 10.5v are trouble.

Ok Watson, I'll so that for sure. It's strange because it only does that when the engine is cold. After it warms up, even at idle it's 48.5V.

Sadly, your FICM is game over. The only question is why. While we can absolutely hook you up with a replacement unit to limit your downtime or repair the unit you have, please have your alternator bench tested and your batteries load tested to ensure their health.

Your FMP numbers recover when the truck warms up as a result of the fact that the unit pulls 30 amps when cold, but that trickles down to only three when warm - so much easier to put out proper voltage at 1/10 the amperage draw.

Hope this helps!

That is disturbing, along with what Jack said. So I have seen 10.5 and even 10 on FICM Logic and Vehicle at start up, only a second or two. I know I have captured a 45 on the main on start up. While I was "decent" at keeping batts charged for the 1st 5 years of the truck, from then til now I've been obsessive.

Even with my Odyssey Extremes I will see a blip to 10.5 at start. For the year or more that I've really been watching closely though, the Main might hit a 47 or even a 46.5 momentarily but really 48 is the constant with sitting at 48.5 for periods.

Whichever of you can answer this, please do for the rest of us that are just your normal paranoid 6.0 person:

What, in fact, are we looking for, as a for-sure: it's-on-its-way-out FICM start up numbers?

Thanks,
Scott

In my context I was not indicating a momentary blip Scott, but for what the poster said:

I've been noticing some low FICM numbers when my motor is cold. I started my truck with an oil temp of 51.5. The FVP was 12 and the FMP was 41.5. It's kicked into high idle now.

85 WT
83 EOT
43.5 FMP
12.0 FVP

I'm going to drive and do a few errands before I go home. Fairly warm now, at idle.

121 WT
119 EOT
45.0 FMP
12.0 FVP

I'll post numbers while driving when I get home.

For my experience on my truck, that starter engagement voltage drop can really go down, and how far you think it's going down depends on the slowness of your instrumentations reporting.

Remember the graph I had from the starter tests ....


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...a98fa524bb.jpg


You can't draw that amount of energy out of the batteries without having a good voltage drop. So an SG2 might be telling you 11.5v, a faster responding DOM 10.8v, or a really fast collection of data 10.3v.

We can get really worked up about how far we drop but there has to be a qualifier. Ford does tell us to some extent, a CEL warning if you've been at 9.0v for 4 seconds, 10.25v for 60 seconds. Low batteries and cranking away like Apocalypse did in his video will get you there.

I see the same thing but have never hit 48.5.

Ours did that for about a year.... then hit 45V one day and within a month it cratered into the 30s in the middle of a 2k mile road trip. If you see 45V ever, it's a when question, not an if question at that point. Wish we had made the decision on when by taking care of it earlier instead of letting the timing be forced on us.

Thanks Jack and Bryan for the expansion. Question for you Bryan: Was it a steady state 45, a minute of 45, or just a second seeing 45 once and then a month later off the cliff it went...?

Thanks,
Scott

Just bouncing off it then back up to 48V for the most part. When there was a significant load like AC+blower+headlights it would run 46-47.5V, but never really stayed at the 45V level for long. Engine voltages were piss poor from the 110A, never over 13.8V at it's best, much worse under load.

Ed would know better about exactly what the failure modes are, but there's no way of knowing for sure without opening up the case and seeing what the boards look like. Could be solder fractures, components failing, or a combination of problems, but once you're seeing 45V at all there's obviously some kind of problem. If the alternator isn't putting out enough power and is running at 13.4V, the power supply has to convert that, it's got to wear on the components.

The other 2007 truck (my main one) is starting to hit 47V regularly, I know there's something starting to go wrong but I don't want to cut Ed a $400 check yet. I keep telling myself once I see 45V once it's going in. DC Power 270XP, upgraded cables, ran a 140A alt before the big boy, used a battery maintainer, rotated batteries, all the BS, and it's still happening. Sucks, but it's a fact of life. Everyone has it eventually, at least we know better than paying a Ford dealer $1200 to swap the module.

Thanks Bryan - most folks don't know that our two trucks are darn near "assembly line brothers", so our FICMs were maybe out of the same batch. Pretty much anything you post I perk up on since our trucks are so close.

But ours was ordered with the 140A alternator, so (hopefully) that could make a difference...?

I've seen 45V only once since I've been using Torque Pro - I use the gauges that capture min and max and it was the min, so I believe start up, number.

Hey! Gives me something else to worry about! :-X03 I'll keep an eye on it for sure and thanks again for your post Bryan...

Scott