Any decent how-to's for installing the cab
 

Tomorrow I'd like to tackle the job of installing the cab on my chassis but I can't find any decent diagrams or how-to's on how to do this.

I'm positive I have all the parts I need, I just don't know where they all go and I don't want to waste a lot of time experimenting (I really don't want to risk damaging the cab...or parts, but they're easier to replace than fixing the cab).

This one doesn't look too bad for the rear most mounts, but has nothing on the front mounts:
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/insta...-f-100-pickup/

This is the cab mount I have:

http://midfifty.com/item.php?INV_ID=...rms-and-plates

I think I'm actually starting to answer my own question:

1953-56 Ford F-100 Cab Mounting Kit, Rubber Pieces Only - BAAA-5400-S

So one additional question then - should I remove the doors if I plan on using this lift/method
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...4d17a02573.jpg

I realize in the pic they did not, but I want to make sure it won't damage the doors/mounts if I leave them on

My personal opinion is it’s easier with the doors removed.

First, the cab is lighter.

Second, I would rather the lifting rig be against the top of the cab doorframe than the actual top of the door. It is much stronger.

Third, I put the front mount bolts in first. It is more difficult with the doors on. With the rig lifting on the doors you can’t open them to check the front mount alignment, or install the bolts. (Technically, I guess you can reach up through the battery and steering holes, but through the doors is way easier)

Another thing I seem to always tell people wrong; you want the “dog bones” hanging from the cab with the bolts loose. When the cab is in place you can then push them up into the frame mounts. If they are on the frame first they cannot swing up into the pockets in the bottom of the cab.

Thanks!

The fourth point is a great one - I was likely going to start the opposite way but I can see that being a huge pain!

Pleases take pics when you do it and show us! Thanks, Greg.

jerry

you can also suspend the cab from chains attached to the front cab mounts or braces in the kick panel area and rear seat bolt holes.. a little more stable that way and the cab isn't so high in the air

Hi Jack tread :( John what is the mail slot for on the rear of your cab? Third brake like?

2X Johns cab install method. I’ve heard of folks bending their door tops and or roof lifting the cab from them.

Exchange the chains for tie down straps. You can then adjust the balance easier.

Just remember if it’s already painted the best way to do this is VERY CAREFULLY ����

yep, bought a third brake light from Juliano's...

OK. Having done this a couple times by myself it really is far easier to call 3 friends to help when the cab is painted.

I agree Pete. The problem with some of us is finding friends that can or will do manual labor.:-X04

I agree with removing the doors. The cab without the doors really isn't that heavy. I have a lift and used it for cab installation. Lifted the cab, rolled the chassis under it and let it down. I also removed the steering shaft once the chassis was aligned to make installation easier.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...3f8b5118ce.jpg