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Auto to Manual Transmission Swap 4R100 to ZF6
If this is meant to be in another forum please let me know. As of February 2017, I decided I was going to convert the transmission in my 2000 Ford Excursion with a 7.3 to a straight drive. The majority of this swap has already been covered in this forum thread here > Excursion Diesel ZF6 swap - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum. I'm gonna basically cover the exact same thing and include the tidbits that were left out and am going to try to remember every single detail that was included with this swap, so here we go.
First off my Excursion if i'm not mistaken has the same chasis as a F250 meaning all the hardware and mounts for everything for a manual are all there. Ford never made a single Excursion that had a manual transmission that I know of, as far as i'm concerned mine is one of maybe 5 in existence so I knew for a fact that it COULD be done. I got sick of having to deal with all the bull**** that came with the 4R100 transmission. The 4R100 would be a decent transmission if a couple of key components were updated. I made the decision to do the swap so I called up Joes Transmission and Differential services up in Butler PA and they were super helpful and still are. They sent me a freshly rebuilt ZF6 transmission wrapped and secure on a pallet for around $3000 WITH the core charge. Below ill make a parts list for what you need from my notes. -ZF6 Trans $2871-DONE -Clutch Kit $666.25-Free Shipping-DONE -Master Cylinder and Slave $94.48 With shipping-DONE -Clutch pedal assembly $135-Free Shipping-DONE -Input Shaft with 24 splines $130-DONE -1/8" Spacer or 10ga Spacer: 202a/f81z7007ab-part number(Dealership useless)- DONE -Flywheel $290- DONE -Manual Floor Hump $?-Make one if needed -Reflash PCM AND Tuner $175-PCM -Shifter Assembly As of right now- -Shifter Linkage $61.98- DONE -Shifter Arm $77.32- DONE -Shifter Knob $16.80- DONE -Shifter Boot $46.97- DONE -Shifter Inner Boot - DONE -Shifter Top Housing $46.58- DONE -Inner Shift Lever Boot Ring-7D152 -Shift Lever Blocks-7C371 -You also NEED the REVERSE SWITCH Total the cost more or less was around $5000, but that is with the majority of the parts being brand new. You could possibly get a parts truck for $2-3K and just swap the parts over but I chose the better safe than sorry route as usual. I have to give huge props to DP Tuner down in Georgia, they did a terrific job with reflashing the computer, the truck runs smooth as butter, no lag whatsoever. I ran into a handful of hiccups with this conversion, like I said most of this stuff has already been covered in the forum I posted a link to above. Below i'm going to layout the list I had made already of the "steps". 1.Roll vehicle into shop due to computer being sent off to be reprogramed for a manual instead of an automatic transmission-DONE 2.Empty transmission fluid out of automatic transmission-DONE 3.Disassemble rear and forward driveshaft-DONE 4.Disassemble carriage holding up transfercase-DONE 5.Detach transfercase from transmission and set aside-DONE 6.Set transmission jack up underneath transmission still in place-DONE 7.Disassemble crossmember-DONE 8.Unbolt transmission and set aside for good-DONE 9.Detach spacer between motor and transmission and set aside-DONE 10.Clean area around back of motor-DONE 11.Attach 1/8 spacer to the front of the manual transmission-DONE Attach flywheel, clutch, pressure plate 12.Attach clutch fork into bellhousing of transmission-DONE 13.Fill manual transmission with transmission fluid-DONE 14.Attach master&slave cylinder where needed-DONE 15.Lift transmission up to the back of the motor-DONE 16.Bolt transmission in place and attach crossmember back in place-DONE (17). Cut new holes for crossmember bolts-DONE (17.5).Adjust cooling lines to fit into new transmission-DONE 18.Mark out on floor inside cab where is needed to cut out for transmission shifter-DONE 19.Cut floor minimally for shifter assembly-DONE 20.Take apart transfercase and replace the input shaft with the new input shaft-DONE 21.Reassemble transfercase and fill with fluid-DONE 22.Attach transfercase to new manual transmission-DONE 23.Attach carriage up underneath transfercase 24.Install driveshafts back in place-Done 25.Finish assembling shifter assembly--Done 26.Weld new floor hump over the shifter assembly and seal it-Done 27.Roll carpet back over temporarily-Done 28.Jump wires needed on the gear selector plug and ziptie to frame-DONE 29.Plug PCM back into place and make sure it is tight and snug-DONE 30.Hook batteries back up and hope for the best-DONE Rolled the truck into the shop bay since the computer was out of it to be reprogrammed. Once you send the PCM off and have it reflashed, you CANNOT use it while the automatic trans is still in there. Took the driveshafts off, drained all the fluid. Took the transfercase out, then the transmission. Took both spacers off in between the bellhousing and motor. Cleaned the area of excess oil and crud. Attached the thin 1/8 spacer. Attached the flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate. There is a small plastic piece for the clutch fork that holds it in place inside the bellhousing, I do not know if it is necessary or not but I got it anyways. Stuck the clutch fork in, got it ready for installation. The hump is the tricky part for the trans tunnel, you can either cut out a big gaping hole in the floor if you have a hump made for it, or from a stickshift parts truck, or you can go my route and cut a small hole big enough for the shifter housing and then raise the floor with a car jack, and a wooden block which surprisingly works well. The ZF6 is a tall and a big transmission so be sure to have the floor raised adequately. Raise the trans up, bolted it in place. The transfer case HAS to be taken apart to replace the input shaft, the correct input shaft you need has 24 splines to hook up to the transmission. I thought it was going to be a nightmare but after referring to a diagram it was cake. Got the transfer case reassembled, mounted it up to the back of the transmission. The crossmember WILL need some fab work, just measure your whole where the transmission will mount to it and make the necessary cuts. Mounted the crossmember and the rear driveshaft. (Both driveshafts WILL mount up, no need for custom driveshafts thankfully) Put the starter back into place. The two cooling lines you need to adjust are fairly easy. One you can easily bend back in place and the other will needed to be shortened quite a bit. The clutch pedal and master & slave cylinder are a bit of a bitch to get in and probably requires two people. The master & slave I bought were pre-bled and ready to go. The wiring is the important part, you in order to get the truck to start and drive you need to splice the DARK BLUE WIRE WITH ORANGE STRIPE and the TAN WIRE WITH THE RED STRIP on the wiring harness that was on the side of the automatic trans. The downside of this is the truck will start in gear even when the clutch pedal is not depressed. Cruise control will not work nor will your back up light buts there is a fix for that, I just haven't gotten to it yet, you'll find it in the previous forum I posted. Once I spliced the wires I wrapped them up and strapped them to the frame. As for the transmission hump, this might sound hilbily-ish but we found an old metal toolbox that was lying around and split the lid on it and molded it to the floor and welded it down for a fully functional hump. Caulked around it and put down sound proofing mats around it to muffle the noise. Rolled the carpet back over, made the adjustments and cut the whole out for it, put everything back inside and it looks just as if it came out of the showroom. Put the PCM back in, hooked it up and hooked the batteries back up, started right back up after 6 months of sitting. Drove it around, drives like a damn champ. I did buy a southbend clutch rated for 400 HP and 800 ft lbs of torque, my truck is stock as stock gets so i'll need some upgrades to beef it up to really feel the full potential. The clutch people say takes around 500 +/- miles to break in, but at 300 it drives no problem what so ever. IMPORTANT: I noticed a small leak coming from the top of the trans from the back end on the passenger side, thought for sure it was a seal on the transfercase but it turns out there is a hole in the trans that is for the REVERSE SWITCH, a very small 12$ piece that lets the reverse lights work when shifted to the reverse gear. Got the part, installed it, no more leak. :-drink I'm sorry if this is too much to read but i'm trying to help those that are interested in performing this swap so they won't have to run into the problems I came across. If you have any questions please message me. |
Just happened across your thread...well done! So, to be clear, you used the ZF6-650 from behind a 7.3? Or did you use a ZF6-750 from behind the 6.0/6.4? Did the 2000 X have the pull out cup holder in the dash? (I have a 2003 EB, so I'm not sure what the differences are). How does the shift pattern play with the cup holder assuming you have one? Got any pics of the interior and of how you modified the floor pan?
On another note, your thread is in a good place, but if you have it moved to the X forum, you'll get a ton more traffic on it...food for thought...Thanks! |
Originally Posted by EXSwap
(Post 17684605)
Just happened across your thread...well done! So, to be clear, you used the ZF6-650 from behind a 7.3? Or did you use a ZF6-750 from behind the 6.0/6.4? Did the 2000 X have the pull out cup holder in the dash? (I have a 2003 EB, so I'm not sure what the differences are). How does the shift pattern play with the cup holder assuming you have one? Got any pics of the interior and of how you modified the floor pan?
On another note, your thread is in a good place, but if you have it moved to the X forum, you'll get a ton more traffic on it...food for thought...Thanks! I did in fact use the ZF6 650, as far as I know it's the only one that will bolt up behind a 7.3. I do have the cup holder in the dash but hardly ever use it since my console also has one. I do have some photos of the process that I plan on getting on here once I figure out how from my phone lol |
Originally Posted by Brodude07
(Post 17686547)
I did in fact use the ZF6 650, as far as I know it's the only one that will bolt up behind a 7.3. I do have the cup holder in the dash but hardly ever use it since my console also has one. I do have some photos of the process that I plan on getting on here once I figure out how from my phone lol Looking forward to some pics! I'm not sure how to do it from the phone. |
Thanks for the pics! I'm not real happy about the fact that I'll lose my floor heat/AC for the second row with the ZF6, but at the same time, I rarely use it (normally push it out of the roof vents).
So did the carpet cover nicely with the raised floor? or did you have to modify it as well? Is that last pic with the shifter in 6th gear? I constantly use the cup holder in the dash on mine, and I really don't want to be banging into it all the time... |
Originally Posted by EXSwap
(Post 17687215)
Thanks for the pics! I'm not real happy about the fact that I'll lose my floor heat/AC for the second row with the ZF6, but at the same time, I rarely use it (normally push it out of the roof vents).
So did the carpet cover nicely with the raised floor? or did you have to modify it as well? Is that last pic with the shifter in 6th gear? I constantly use the cup holder in the dash on mine, and I really don't want to be banging into it all the time... |
Originally Posted by EXSwap
(Post 17687215)
Thanks for the pics! I'm not real happy about the fact that I'll lose my floor heat/AC for the second row with the ZF6, but at the same time, I rarely use it (normally push it out of the roof vents).
So did the carpet cover nicely with the raised floor? or did you have to modify it as well? Is that last pic with the shifter in 6th gear? I constantly use the cup holder in the dash on mine, and I really don't want to be banging into it all the time... |
What clutch did you use? I see you listed the clutch and flywheel seperate. I paid just over $900 for my 475hp rated South Bend single disc kit and it comes with a flywheel. They also have cheaper options that aren't rated for as much if you are going to keep it mostly stock.
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Originally Posted by 00t444e
(Post 17687435)
What clutch did you use? I see you listed the clutch and flywheel seperate. I paid just over $900 for my 475hp rated South Bend single disc kit and it comes with a flywheel. They also have cheaper options that aren't rated for as much if you are going to keep it mostly stock.
I paid $666 for the single disc southbend clutch rated for 400 hp and 800 ft lbs of torque as well as the clutch fork, the flywheel I bought separately. |
Who did you have reflash your computer? I did same swap except mine is a v10.
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Originally Posted by Chasgrimpe
(Post 18196428)
Who did you have reflash your computer? I did same swap except mine is a v10.
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Not sure where your mounting plates are, but if you are using the stock position, you have the wrong clutch pedal. It's too close to the brake pedal. What part number did you use?
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Originally Posted by Tofan
(Post 18197754)
Not sure where your mounting plates are, but if you are using the stock position, you have the wrong clutch pedal. It's too close to the brake pedal. What part number did you use?
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Hey brodude07 nice thread im sure it will help out alot of ppl out!
But i was wondering if you could possible help me out with my current problem. Its a bit of a long story so before i type it all out im hoping that your still checking into these forums and getting these notifications if so id appreciate the help and hope this reaches you. Ill just give you the quick run down first. So basically about a year ago i bought a 2003 f350 7.3 lariat 4x4 auto to zf6 swap.Everything was all and well and i drove her around for about 2 months the one day i noticed my starter kept getting loose, so i decided to pull it off and check it out. I did and it looked fine so i threw it back in and tightened it so good i was sure it wouldnt be an issue anymore. But then about a week later the truck started having power issues and it eventually wouldnt stay running for more than a minute or two. So i took it to the shop and it turned out to be my injectors, The shop rebuilt my injectors and did a few other things that pleased me but upon finishing up the trruck they also said the starter was being an issue and kept popping out and wouldnt engage properly. Fast forward 5 months later due to the shop being busy and them being stuck with them not knowing why the new starters were not fitting properly they recently came to the conclusion that the truck was missing the tranny spacer plate and they said they would order it but then they kept recieving wrong plates from multiple dealerships one time it was an auto spacer plate another it was too thick etc. so upon doing my own research i found that it needed to be 1/8th or 10 gauge spacer plate ( https://www.ebay.com/itm/99-03-Ford-...YAAOSwmU1cj6Qu ) but now upon them looking more into it they say that the clutch kit and flywheel in there look different from other zf6 swaps they have looked at and that it could be from an older f350 98 or something clutch kit. i dont know what to think anymore my truck has been in the shop forever now and i just wanted to get your input on this. i know that there are differences in the starters for the 7.3 and that some have smaller or longer gears that engage into the trannys from previous times going into advanced auto parts and looking at the differences, but at this point im stuck and so is the shop , their two theories are either because the spacer plate was missing the starter engages to deep hence it pops out and its not correctly installed and could do damage, or the other that the clutch kit with flywheel already installed is not the correct one and that its sticking too far out of the tranny towards the engine and thats why im having this issue. or both of those issues combined i really just want my truck back and them to be able to wrap it up because this issue is so stupid for the truck to still be sitting there so if you have an input on your experience with doing this swap i would greatly appreciate it and am hoping you see this soon. |
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