Originally Posted by Colorado350 (Post 17518698)

Well, SRW or DRW, 10.25 or D80?

I have a 2wd, DRW with a D80, I put in a Detroit True-trac Posi in last Dec when I regeared to 4:10's. It's made a HUGE difference on and off road. Here's what I put in, it was $250 back when I bought it. It was brand new and has worked flawlessly!
A couple things to consider in the 2wd vs 4wd argument. Think about all the 2wd delivery trucks, semis etc that run year round regardless of road conditions. I carry a set of Alpine Super Sport tire chains year round here in Colorado. If conditions get bad enough to need to chain up and I'm towing through the Rockies, I going to be looking for a place to pull over and wait it out. I'd have the same position if I had 4wd, I'm not afraid to drive in bad (snowy) conditions...I'm afraid of all the idiots on the road around me.
Now, the only thing I wish I did have was the Low range I'd get with the transfer case but my 1st gear is pretty low.

TRUETRAC POSI DANA 80 F81Z-4026-A 915A450 915A652 https://www.ebay.com/i/300964506398

Originally Posted by brandon_oma#692 (Post 17408527)

Have a Detroit Locker in my F450. I am very happy with it. Buddy has a round barn at his house with a steep grass ramp to drive up into. Stopped with all wheels on wet grass and let the clutch out in low. Truck is 2wd and climbed up. He can not drive up it if is wet in his 4x4 duramax.

I think my new 2wd F450 with the locker will do more than my old F250 4x4.

Originally Posted by brandon_oma#692 (Post 17102113)

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...8e0dbdf2f0.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...2b9cda8662.jpg

Over the weekend I installed my locker and swapped the 4.88 for 4.10 gears. Only got these 2 pictures sadly. The oldest boy knocked a tv tray over on the baby so I spent most of Saturday in the ER with him waiting for stiches on his nose. he is ok though tough little kid. My Dad was helping me and he got the Pinion depth set while I was gone. He said it took a few times to get it correct. I got the carrier shimmed good on the third try it was just a pain to keep everything lined up together and push it in. the carrier stuck out just past the bearings so I had to hold the race and shims in place and push it in as a unit.

I am very happy with the results so far. Unlocking and locking is hardly noticeable. It will break both loose on a corner if you step on it too much. (edit if you put it to the floor when turning taking off at a stop sign. had to "test" and see what would happen) Driving to work today on wet pavement I spun it unlocked turning left at a stop sign when I took off the left slipped a touch then the right locked back in and pulled nicely. No big clunk or bang just the truck accelerating. the only think I notice is when you are going down the road and lift off the throttle. You can feel the parts in the locker move as the wheels start to "drive" the driveline. Not bad at all. the part number was 225SL105A the "L" means it is the "new and improved" design that is supposed to disengage and engage smoother so that may have been a help. no clue when that was implemented because I bought the locker second hand but new in box. it looked like it had been on a shelf some time.

Originally Posted by brandon_oma#692 (Post 17277946)

A Truetrac is open and "tightens up" to transfer power to the wheel with more traction

A Trutrac should be seamless you should not know you even have it on the street most of the time. Functions like an open diff on dry pavement. On the street you should not have any "one tire fire" on wet pavement, gravel or sand or leaves on roadway.... if one wheel has LIMITED traction it will transfer power to the opposite wheel. same for off-road it will help and be smooth. If one tire has ZERO traction up in the air, glare ice, any other near zero traction situation you may need to ride the brake to make it work.

A Truetrac should have better street manners

Edit I added some things

Originally Posted by brandon_oma#692 (Post 17277960)

Here is my Detroit locker thread https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...r-no-spin.html I need to go back and add more info for future readers.

I am very happy with mine but I agree it is not for everyone. I have not driven it in the winter yet and hope I feel the same come next spring. I feel a heavy long wheelbase truck will be less affected by its "manners" than a light short wheelbase truck.

A Detroit Locker will always go. I bought mine because I did not want to try riding the brakes when I get stuck.

Pre locker pictures. backed in and spun out. let it sit a day to dry some, filled my holes with wet clay dirt and put down planks to back the rest of the way in.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...17c31b05fc.jpg


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...8bdb9b557f.jpg

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...432f870142.jpg



edit I added some things

Originally Posted by SaintITC (Post 17521208)

My '97 was 2WD with a good working LS in the rear. My current e99 is 4x4 with an open rear diff. The only time the '97 had a hard time getting around was when we had nearly 30" of snow one winter - but even then it eventually got around. The '99 (in 2-Lo & granny gear) got stuck in 3" of ice and snow on my flat driveway 'cause I backed it up against a fence, and the front tire was up against a 1" lip in my driveway. I was able to leave it in gear, hop out and watch the tire go round and round. With the exact same tires. Go figure. Unless you're truly going off-road, or pulling a heavy boat out the water on a slippery ramp, a good rear in a 2WD truck should do you fine! And get better mileage to boot.

Originally Posted by HD Rider (Post 17522431)

I have a 1/2 ton with limited slip rear and my super duty with a truck. Both are 4x4 and came with open diffs. The 1/2 ton rear was shot and was upgraded during it's rebuild. My SD was upgraded so I could be more competitive in truck pulling. Both have pretty much eliminated the need for 4x4 when driving in slippery conditions. The LS rear is more likely to go sideways on ice but it is a much shorter wheel base. The TruTrack is easier on tires during turns. My vote would be for a TruTrack. The cost for both was about $1200 installed.

Originally Posted by carl2591 (Post 17522373)

more good info.. every time i hear some one like you and other tell real world experiences about locker/ positive rear ends in truck i am getting more and more happy with getting one.

So how much does it cost to get one installed usually.. I know it depends on location etc but ball park or what did it cost you to get on installed if you did not do it yourself.

thanks and keep the comments coming.. :) :-wink :-X22 :-drink

Originally Posted by Colorado350 (Post 17522481)

I bought the Detroit in my post above, at the time it was $250 everyone wanted $700-$900. The guy I went to charged $750 which included new 4:10's, bearing rebuild kit and installation.

IMO, nows the time to decide if you want to regear AND add the locker or just add the locker. How many miles of your diff and bearings? I was pushing 360K so at the very least I figured a bearing replacement. My truck is 95% tow rig through the mountains of Colorado and Utah...I'm not really worried about mpg, just towing. I want the ability to pass the idiot doing 5 mph under the limit, and the lower gearing helps with the mountain passes. I had 3.73 and open...really Ford RWD and open? The 4:10's made a huge difference! No regrets at all! :-drink

Originally Posted by carl2591 (Post 17524276)

only have 178K miles on truck and diff cover was changed out couple year ago to Mag-Hytek alum with a kick ass magnet/ depth of fluid checker and it added 2 qts of fluid to rear end. When i dropped the original one there was not a lot of metal and it was throughly cleaned so I guess not to worried about bearing in there.. fluid level was low but good for the most part before change out.

I can see the 4.10 providing more power but how much does it effect MPG over the 3.73.