best 12volt conversion kit
 

what is the best 12 volt conversion kit to buy?

I didn't know there were kits. I just bought the parts I needed at the best prices I could find.

There are no "kits" that I'm aware of except for the various alternator mounting brackets. What exactly are you looking to do, and what are you working on?

I seen kits for sale I want to convert a 1948 ford f1 v8 from 6v to 12v I have a starter already

Could you please provide a link or picture of the kits you've seen? All I have ever seen is alternators, brackets, and wiring harnesses, but they are all from different vendors or sources. Never seen a complete kit, but not saying they don't exist. I searched far and wide when I did my conversion. You will have to flip the wire going through your ammeter also if you are using your existing wiring harness. Also, there is the issue of wire size.

Howdy,

I am not sure they're needed.

Your current wiring would work just fine, You would need a 14v ALT/GEN, (with 12v regulator if a gen), 12v starter solenoid, and associated bulbs/LEDs (I would do LED everywhere I could) . If you have a 6v radio, you would need to either need to replace it, rewire it or use some sort of converter.

Another issue is that many 6v systems are positive ground, but you would be switching everything to negative.

In that case, I would rewire the radio power supply and filament circuit etc, to work with a negative system. (tube-type radios are not all that hard to switch over if you know what you're doing.) Otherwise, get a more modern one. I don't have a radio. Mine will just use a Bluetooth speaker system and play streaming radio/audio from my smart phone.

Selecting a a single wire alternator (with integral regulation) works well as does 3-wire units. I used a mid 80's 90A Buick 3-wire ALT for my truck.
Here's a discussion on both Catalog

As far as "kits" go, there's a bunch of them as you probably found out.... https://www.vintageautogarage.com/Ford-s/2588.htm

I wouldn't use any of them. I had an old junk Alternator that I used as a "core". I went to Autozone and bought that "rebuilt" Buick alternator (lifetime guarantee) for about $100 then you get the other "stuff" as needed. (Notice that none of the above "kits" include a starter. (is this a Y-block?

Most 6v starters will operate on 12v as long as you don't "grind" on them too long. You do need to change the solenoid to a 12v model though.

Your 6v coil will work with a series resistor (AKA a Ballast Resistor) A LOT of 12v systems use 6v coils (with series resistance) You wire it so that the resistor is switched out during cranking to allow for a little hotter spark......then when you release the key after start, the coil only gets about 6v for running (depending on current draw and the value of the "ballast" resistor.

The existing wiring (if it's in good shape) is ok to use since it's likely a heavier gauge than a similar 12v vehicle. But if you're restoring your vehicle, you'll probably want new wire, connectors, fuse-blocks/circuit breaker panel etc. Most Marine supply places have REALLY nice fuse/CB panels that are top notch.

Here's some examples https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-...56?recordNum=2

What vehicle is this?

Cheers,

Rick

Those prices are insane imho. Lots of things you don't need too. Glad I didn't go that way.

Yeah. Most of the cost of those "kits" are because of the exorbitantly priced alternator! Just like the (lifetime guaranteed) one I bought from AZ for about $100

I don't think you'd pay much for a starter solenoid either. Rock Auto gets about $5 for the cheap one (+ shipping). Most autoparts stores get about $15 for a solenoid.

I bought the bracket from VintageGarage..but on their alternator page it mentions they have to machine the case and JB Weld a nut to fit the bracket. I'm not sure if I can buy an off the shelf 10SI and have it fit?

Wow! Those prices are outrageous. I think the first question that you have to ask is what are your power requirements so you can buy the right size alternator. You really don't need to change the starter. Mine worked fine for years on 12v.

Many of the brackets are made for Cars, which have different belt spacing fore-aft compared to our trucks. But the correct yokes for trucks are out there.

If I were to go thru it again, I'd just mount an alternator in the stock yoke. Very little work required to make it work, and the stock yoke is much stiffer.

I used a Vintage Air set up but I want to mount an AC compressor too.

This alternator bracket is reasonably priced, well built and works well.

Plain 1946-1953 Flathead Alternator Bracket


They also have quite a selection of alternators. The one wire are the simplest to use IMO.

1950 Ford Alternators, Generators, and Charging - Free Shipping @ Speedway Motors


Just be aware that the chrome is not very good on some of the alternators. After a year the chrome started peeling on top surfaces of the King Chrome 100 amp that I bought. But the alternator still worked great. So I sanded it down and painted it the engine color, Krylon Ceramic Engine Paint in Ford Red. That has held up well.

You also will need a wide belt pulley.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...211fac1ce9.jpg


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let me also add that a good way to increase the life of an alternator is to fab a cover for the back of it that connects to a "cold" air tube supplying air from outside the engine compartment.

This way you get MUCH cooler ambient air entering/cooling the alt instead of hot air from the radiator or otherwise hot air in the engine compartment.

Heat is the main "killer" of alternators!

That's curious since TEFC alternators last for thousands of machine hours. Most all agricultural and earth moving equipment use TEFC alternators. The velocity of warm air over hot components still creates a wind chill effect.