CAM sensor ?? Or something worse? -SOLVED
 

So, I had issues with random "hiccups" and stalling, a few months ago. I installed a new OEM light grey cam sensor. The problem went away.

Until a couple of days ago..... It started with the occasional CEL at startup, and random stalls at idle. Yesterday, it started "hiccuping" violently at highway speed. Each time it would do it, the dash died, and the various warning lights blinked. Specifically the CEL, WTS, and WIF. The radio stayed on, so it would appear there was no general interruption of power or ignition switch cycling. Each time, it just came back on. However, after each "burp", I had to release the throttle for it to begin to respond again.
It gradually became more and more frequent, until it got to the point where it just shut off and would not re-start. It cranked, but sounded like a gas engine with no spark. No resistance, fast cranking. The other thing is, while cranking, the tach did not move.

So, I pulled over and reluctantly started poking around, in 90 deg humid heat, wearing my new scrubs. IPR tin nut was still in place. The IPR was replaced about 2 years ago, but with a GP Sorensen branded part from either Advance or Autozone ( can't remember).

I crawled under the truck and snaked my arm through the various extremely hot components, to make sure the cam sensor was still there, and plugged in. Everything appeared to be ok. I gave a little push to the plug, just to sure. It seemed to already be fully seated. I also attempted to put a socket on the hold down bolt, but the plug got in the way, and I didn't feel like messing with it.
So, basically, I didn't actually do anything. Yet, about 5 minutes later, the truck started right up. I continued on my journey ( on the highway) about 20 miles later, it started "burping" and missing again. I made it off my exit, but it stalled again at a traffic light. Again, no apparent tach signal while cranking, and no start. This time I didn't get out of the truck. About 2 minutes later, it started again. I went a few hundred feet to the grocery store, and shut if off. When I cam out, it started right up, and ran fine until I got home a few blocks away.

I know these things go through cam sensors a lot, but shouldn't an oem one last more then a few months? The last one was good for almost 2 years.

Also, opinions on whether I should use the "correct" light gray sensor, or the OBS dark grey one?

So, does this actually sound like it is the cam sensor, based on the symptoms? Or should I be looking elsewhere?
I am planning on making a 100 mile drive on Saturday, to see my grandmother. So, I really need to know that I have this fixed before then. I can't risk getting stuck in between. The tow bill would be enormous.


EDIT: SOLVED - bad chip

That does sound exactly like a CPS issue. And while they usually do last quite a long time, even new ones can fail shortly after being installed, so while it's rare, your fairly newish one could have gone bad.

I just put a new (Yup, by "new" I mean NOS ;) ), OEM original black CPS in my wife's Excursion earlier this year, but just the other day I started getting weird things happening that make me think the CPS is going bad, similar to your scenario, but not nearly as drastic as what your rig is doing.

Stewart

As cheap as they are, I might start with a new NOS one and see how it goes. My dealer-installed-recall one hiccuped about twice, and I bought a new Ford one and the problem went away. I bought whatever Ford one was available on Amazon for cheap - don't recall the color.

OK, you guys have me confused. I thought you were saying "NOS" as "new off the shelf", but now I don't think that is what it stands for.

So, I ask you wise gentlemen, what does "NOS" stand for?

I would consider the possibility of a fuel issues, or a bad electrical connection as well. It could be the wiring under the valve cover coming apart. Aren't these SD Ford fun! Everything is going just fine and just like that you are stuck on the side of the road. When my CPS dies this went south in a hurry. Things were fine one day, and crap the next.

NOS is New Old Stock to me. Old inventory from defunct dealerships etc. Common term in auto collector world. I have an IH black CPS I got from Clay a few years ago that would qualify as NOS. And NIB. :D

I'm going with the "something worse" scenario too. Releasing the throttle to regain throttle control is resetting the idle validation switch. IVS needs to be reset when power is interrupted to the PCM. Chasing that down on mine included swapping fan and PCM relays to see if the PCM relay was weak, inspecting and cleaning various engine bay grounds, checking the power splice on top of the DS wheel well for corrosion, and eventually finding it was the ignition switch mounted on the steering shaft. Mine's an 02 and the dash is more integrated into the electrical system than an 00, but there's some places to start.

Also, I don't know what "NOS" means, good question?

The key here is the PCM is rebooting due to the dash lights as described in the post. The CPS can't do this by itself. There is some kind of a power interruption to the PCM, like key OFF -ON. Your post indicates you have a chip, most likely a bad or loose chip can cause the PCM to reset itself, like a power up. I'm not an expert on the 2000's, if ever, but if anything like the 97's it certainly sounds like a loose chip or connection in the PCM.

Last I've used it the dark-gray with purple o-ring CPS, as far as I know only available from Ford or International. There are about 10 different CPS versions out there, all say "Original Ford Part", and most fail from the internet or part stores. OEM only here.

I get it now... them saying "new" before "NOS" was throwing me off.

Thanks for clearing up my foggy mind for just a brief moment David.

I am working on an '03 7.3L for a friend. As soon as we are certain it is fixed I will start a thread about it and get some input from the electrical gurus on here.

Bottom line, get a can of compressed key board air and keep it in your truck. Next time it happens, invert the can and spray the heck out of the IPR and see if that changes anything...especially since it is not OEM.

Maybe try it on your ICP sensor as well. Is it OEM?

My truck had this problem due to my "superchip" it was hiccuping and doing weird things such as stalling in reverse only with the windshield wipers on. I had drove it a day later and ended up being broke down on the side of the road thinking my CPS sensor failed. I ended up changed my sensor and then I fired it up and it died shortly after.

So I pulled out the POS superchip, threw it on the ground bolted my PCM back on and drove off like it never happened.

If your truck has a chip, make sure it has a foo connection, or try pulling it out and see if that makes a difference

https://dieseliq.com/9-common-problems-with-73-power-stroke-diesel-engines

This...the below quote. :-X22

Yup.

I have several NOS black CPS's still NIB.

Dunno about another post (re: "them"), but my use of the word was qualified by the parenthesis to denote a clarification of the preceding word (that word being the aforementioned "new") to make sure all y'all knew I was talking about one of the old, original black CPS's. ;) :D:-X22 :-jammin

Stewart

Sous, I went back and edited my post so my intent is more clear.

Apologies for not doing so the first time.

Stewart

No worries, I'm not the grammar police by any means. I just knew you were not talking about NOS as in nitrous oxide, but could not get it sorted in my brain.

One of the first forums I joined when forums were first being created back in the 90's was a classic Mustang site, so the term New Old Stock (NOS) became something I was very familiar with, and that I (wrongly) assumed was fairly well known.

Stewart :o