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Yes that is my thoughts I am thinking that the components of EEC are functioning as intended but I have added more air intake volume and system is not happy my chilton’s manual has a statement about driving for 10 minutes to let the PCM make corrections |
One more time stabbing TDC
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...c500536a10.jpg I am within 1 or 2° |
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...fd349c12aa.jpg I have not moved the crankshaft my phone makes me have 2 posts but is 0 time on the distributor |
And you guys laughing admitting I am a trainee here |
Look what I found under a relay
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...b09fc95a27.jpg Under the heat/ac valve i was the one who mounted this it must have been a Friday |
Originally Posted by schoo
(Post 18543178)
l am sorry that is just past top dead the piston is going down (power stroke)the pic is from the right side (passenger side ) marks are moving away from me crank was at 10:00 moving toward 12:00. The rotor has passed the #1 post on distributor cap. I’ve tried to post another pic but my phone gives me to much trouble |
You can get one of these at any of the big three parts slingers for about 30 bucks.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...039e996c4e.jpg It can save headaches & stops (slows down) throwing parts at a problem blindly. If it's running within what you think it should, drive it easy & listen for detonation. I think you've got plenty room in the EFI for whats in the engine. Let me ask again, does it show BTDC & ATDC on the balancer? It looks in the pics like it starts at 0 & goes in one direction which don't make sense. |
Code reader on order from amazon be here on Monday it it does not show bottom dead center nor does it show top dead center. this balancer is a summit universal thing not recommended to anyone it has 3 different settings for different pointer locations I’m sure that I have the correct settings I matched with the old balancer And no it won’t start at zero I began at the beginning today with checking #1 on compression stroke(with finger in spark plug hole), rotor points at number one post on cap, spout is installed I try starting no go, i bump timing a little and it tries, bump a little past 10° it runs for a second, I push a little more advance it runs a little rough and smooths out (the engine is cold at this time) I check the timing light and it’s 16° or so, it warms up and is trying to advance but running rougher I throttle up some rpm it run ok I let the throttle loose and it stalls |
Some more info I also hooked up a vacuum gauge taping into the line for the map sensor with a T fitting the engine is warm and needs to be advance again now at 22° but idling good vacuum is at 8 in. I do do the same at the EGR and the needle just moves off 0 |
I think David is asking about the harmonic balancer, does it have a 0 degree mark at TDC and the degrees BTDC on one side and degrees ATDC on the other? It looks to me as though it just has the degrees BTDC and 0 degrees TDC.
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Originally Posted by Tim Young
(Post 18544230)
I think David is asking about the harmonic balancer, does it have a 0 degree mark at TDC and the degrees BTDC on one side and degrees ATDC on the other? It looks to me as though it just has the degrees BTDC and 0 degrees TDC.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...f9e8219e82.jpg Started down I just felt it |
Originally Posted by Tim Young
(Post 18544230)
I think David is asking about the harmonic balancer, does it have a 0 degree mark at TDC and the degrees BTDC on one side and degrees ATDC on the other? It looks to me as though it just has the degrees BTDC and 0 degrees TDC.
Yes. I'm thinking I see nothing but degrees after TDC. There are things called timing tape, but Henry Help Us, if you can find one for a sbf. |
OK, my bad. Looked at a balancer on the shelf & yours shows before degrees & no after degrees.
The pointer lines up with the first zero mark when you find for sure TDC? |
Originally Posted by Scndsin
(Post 18544983)
OK, my bad. Looked at a balancer on the shelf & yours shows before degrees & no after degrees.
The pointer lines up with the first zero mark when you find for sure TDC? the engine started on the third try of the key after assembly it has never been off by very much |
Then you should be able to pull the spout, loosen the hold-down & get 10* (second 0, second red mark to the right)
Unless the cap is hitting something. The only other issue you might be having is that 8 inches of vacuum could be some heavy leak. |
Originally Posted by Scndsin
(Post 18545097)
Then you should be able to pull the spout, loosen the hold-down & get 10* (second 0, second red mark to the right)
Unless the cap is hitting something. The only other issue you might be having is that 8 inches of vacuum could be some heavy leak. the only vac line I have doubts about is the egr from the solenoid to the unit will it run if pull that line |
You can disconnect the vacuum line at the EGR valve and plug it. It will have no effect for your purposes at this time.
8 inches of vacuum is way low. Vacuum that low would most commonly indicate a manifold leak. Is the PCV valved line made to the tapped opening on the the rear of the upper intake? I know this connection opening is out of sight, maybe out of mind. |
Originally Posted by diggerrigger
(Post 18547312)
You can disconnect the vacuum line at the EGR valve and plug it. It will have no effect for your purposes at this time.
8 inches of vacuum is way low. Vacuum that low would most commonly indicate a manifold leak. Is the PCV valved line made to the tapped opening on the the rear of the upper intake? I know this connection opening is out of sight, maybe out of mind. |
I drove it up to town twice today first time I tried it at 12°-15° I had to stop and advance it up to 20°+ just to get up the hills. It it heats up to the fan comes when not moving but driving it cools down to 190 or so, when I turned it off I checked the thermostat housing with my gauge and it read 197 just after shutdown. |
Well besides the motor, everything else is working ok?
I would like to see a photo of your truck! |
197* is good. 20* I guess will have to be lived with for now.
Are your IAC, throttle body, gaskets new? Are all the extra ports on the vaccume tree capped? This thing doesn't have a power brake booster does it? What intake to head gasket did you use? |
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...ea3e654d5.jpeg Ford had the gas tank in the cab mine (Chevy van Fi tank)is in the rear behind the Chevy rear end, gas cap is jag
Originally Posted by Tim Young
(Post 18547494)
Well besides the motor, everything else is working ok?
I would like to see a photo of your truck! |
There are lots of truck on FTE that are sooooo much better than this truck check out some of them on the 48-56 forums |
Originally Posted by Scndsin
(Post 18547512)
197* is good. 20* I guess will have to be lived with for now.
Are your IAC, throttle body, gaskets new? Are all the extra ports on the vaccume tree capped? This thing doesn't have a power brake booster does it? What intake to head gasket did you use? gasket at throttle body is new IAC was not messed with The tree is caped where no hose are ill check out the lower intake manifold also yes I have a vac booster for brakes and I have had some trouble with brake fluid leaks at master (Chinese) |
Thanks for the update!
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Plug all the vac lines (at the tree or end of vac line/hose) including the one feeding the booster & the line leading to the EGR.
Leave only the fuel pressure regulator vac line & the MAP sensor vac line connected. Measure again at operating temp. Do you have a propane gas cylinder? |
Ok I think I know where we are going isolate the vacuum system check them one at a time? yes I have propane and my OBD tester was sent to Napa ca. |
Best place to disconnect EGR vacuum supply is where the line from the manifold tree connects to the vacuum reservoir. Plugging it there eliminates a leaky reservoir and the EGR control solenoid valves.
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ok lines disconnected and plugged |
Run the engine at operating temp with just MAP & fuel pressure regulator & check vacuum at idle.
If still at 8 inches, take the torch, put a hose over the nozzle, tape the vent over & crack the valve just a bit till you can smell the gas. Take the hose & pass it around the TB & its shaft, (air box hoses on) EGR parts, base of intake to head, upper to lower, near the PCV hose & valve. If the idle goes up noticeably at any given location, there's your leak. |
Engine warm timing advanced so It idles vacuum is 16” so i check timing it’s 30° I had one leak windshield wiper are vacuum 16” equals 30°? Spout was out I will check the throttle body and intake later |
Originally Posted by schoo
(Post 18547725)
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...ea3e654d5.jpeg Ford had the gas tank in the cab mine (Chevy van Fi tank)is in the rear behind the Chevy rear end, gas cap is jageverything working ok? This is a hot rod made up from I’m counting 6or7 cars/trucks. Power steering for instance jaguar rack & pinion but the pump is ford E250 the pump is new when I built the engine but the rack seals are old and when I started up the engine I had a lot more pressure than the old pump( the old one worked great)so of course I blow the seals |
Originally Posted by schoo
(Post 18549240)
... I had one leak windshield wiper are vacuum...
16 inches vacuum is much better. My similar cammed/built 5.8 runs 18*-19* The computer does all the timing adjustments, there is no vac advance. That's why it's so important to set a base time (10* factory, 12*-14* for a little extra HP,spout out) that it knows it's operating at. Is the ECU used on your conversion that came with a kit? Or was it sourced by you? |
Originally Posted by Scndsin
(Post 18549487)
:eek:
16 inches vacuum is much better. My similar cammed/built 5.8 runs 18*-19* The computer does all the timing adjustments, there is no vac advance. That's why it's so important to set a base time (10* factory, 12*-14* for a little extra HP,spout out) that it knows it's operating at. Is the ECU used on your conversion that came with a kit? Or was it sourced by you? |
Some conversions have altered stock computers.
If yours is a straight stock ECU, doesn't have a "do not open or warranty is void" tape/sticker, I'd open it up & have a look at the capacitors. Lots of strange behavior happens when they leak like a dead battery in a device. They are very resilient computers but the oldest are thirty something these days. Wait until you get the code reader & check those first cause you'll loose them when the battery is disconnected. Think you're making progress. |
I think Chuck did put in some resistors? When deleting some of the solenoids/sensors there were 3 on the same bracket but again the computer was working before. I have ave call into LMR about the distributor for tomorrow |
Dave thank you for the help |
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...3c5aaf4c5e.jpg It’s probably operator error so maybe read the instructions Code reader came something is not working I’m not getting any codes and the screen is not showing some of the symbols and one of the contacts is pushed in. So another is coming a real pain in the a$$ I am unable to find any vacuum leaks with the propane I cannot check the right side very good but I have a oil leak at the rear of the lower manifold i checked a couple of the grounds they seam good checked with multimeter but they have paint so I plan to clean them this weekend. Could this thing be in a limp mode? It does run good with the timing advanced and ran good before I took it apart? |
Is the leak at the horizontal/flat (china wall) ?
Did you use a piece of hose? Trying to get the nozzle of a propane tank angled & aimed accurately is awkward. Checking around the throttle body where the shaft comes out is a really good leak generator. 16 inches of vac is not bad, but could always be better. If it was really pig rich, I'd say you have a for sure issue. Limp mode usually pertains to hard shifting & yours isn't computer controlled Sorry you had issues with the reader, but it'd be nice to know what's going on in the ECU if anything. I'don't know what to tell you about the timing. Hoping somebody would jump in with a suggestion other than run it & listen real had for detonation. |
Originally Posted by Scndsin
(Post 18556976)
Is the leak at the horizontal/flat (china wall) ?
Did you use a piece of hose? Trying to get the nozzle of a propane tank angled & aimed accurately is awkward. Checking around the throttle body where the shaft comes out is a really good leak generator. 16 inches of vac is not bad, but could always be better. If it was really pig rich, I'd say you have a for sure issue. Limp mode usually pertains to hard shifting & yours isn't computer controlled Sorry you had issues with the reader, but it'd be nice to know what's going on in the ECU if anything. I'don't know what to tell you about the timing. Hoping somebody would jump in with a suggestion other than run it & listen real had for detonation. I used a hose the inner fender is close I need 2 elbows maybe tape it to a paint stick 16" of vac at 30* advance to much advance? what about the IAC I haven't cleaned it 200000 miles or a bypass? could that help I have no power at 10* and it idles rough when cold and dies as it warms up i'm not sure I could hear detonation/ping I am going to regasket the intake manifold so should I do that before I do any thing else |
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