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Very nice...
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Looks good!
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I could swear mine came with 2 sized pins.
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Got it taping on the washer while tightening bolt. I tried the hair dryer and my heat gun on the cam but I guess I didn’t have it hot enough |
Originally Posted by Scndsin
(Post 18424087)
I could swear mine came with 2 sized pins.
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What about your original cam's pin?
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Originally Posted by Scndsin
(Post 18424242)
What about your original cam's pin?
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https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...8273c0438.jpeg Ok screwup number 2 Or 3 anyway I bought a balancer from summit not knowing its a universal thing I’m in stalling it after heating it up put some anti-seize on the crank lube the seal I can push it almost half way on I screw the bolt in and tighten it it goes on easy. Then the screw up I go to unscrew the bolt and I can get a 1/4 turn and it stops I go back to tighten and the washer doesn’t even get tight. Back and forth I go, any good any ideas I think the bolt bottomed and damaged the threads but not sure. Summit help doesn’t have any thing he said the bolt is probably softer than the crank but? And no I didn’t use an impact |
The bolt is a grade 8, it's definitely harder than the crank. That doesn't look like any of the damper bolts I've had. So you may have one that's too long
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Originally Posted by baddad457
(Post 18426320)
The bolt is a grade 8, it's definitely harder than the crank. That doesn't look like any of the damper bolts I've had. So you may have one that's too long
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If you don't have the flex plate on, take a piece of straight metal & drill a pair of holes to go across the crank.
Bolt it down with a pair of flex plate bolts Then you can hold it still to get the crank bolt out. Then rent a balancer installer. |
Ok in the pic near the chain you can see the pink end of the balancer needs about 3/16 more in I measured the oem balancer it’s 3 1/4 long I measured the summit balancer it’s 3” long I have about 5/16-3/8” between the balancer and the timing cover so it’s close as for the bolt I’m pretty sure that I bottomed it and damaged the threads I’ve been heating and spray PB on it and working it it’s had about a 1/4 turn all along hopefully I’ll work it out or should I just get an impact and get going https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...7f952cc9e.jpeg |
back at this after a week off :-banghead I have busted the budget and had to find a crank or rethread it, machine shop sold me a rebuilt crank that was never picked up by the owner came with bearings so on word and up word
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That's a bummer but glad your back on track. Are you going to use an install tool this time? Or just some anti-seize and a bolt that is not too long?
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That hurts. Threads in the crank stripped, right? And you've got a replacement from your machine shop?
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Yes it was cheaper use the old one but more time he took the old one and gave me a deal. Machine shop let me use their install tool when the balancer is hot it goes on easy I think the bolt galled but I can’t be sure it wasn’t that the bolt bottomed I measured after I got it out |
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Mr injector has the plastic and o ring kits for dirt cheap, even includes a 9th set for just such an emergency...
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Originally Posted by Glaser67
(Post 18448756)
Mr injector has the plastic and o ring kits for dirt cheap, even includes a 9th set for just such an emergency...
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https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...0f6cea9103.jpg Measuring the push rods they are all measure the same 6 3/16 without a preload what do you think 6.25”? |
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Without digging out my build book, I think you should have .030 depression of the lifter's plunger/piston while it (lifter) is on the base circle of the cam. (valve completely closed)
Measured with a "L" shaped wire feeler gauge between the wire clip that retains the plunger/piston it's self. There is a lot of stock placed on how hard the push rod resists twisting with this much preload, but I don't trust my own touch to say how much you should feel. |
Originally Posted by Scndsin
(Post 18451411)
Without digging out my build book, I think you should have .030 depression of the lifter's plunger/piston while it (lifter) is on the base circle of the cam. (valve completely closed)
Measured with a "L" shaped wire feeler gauge between the wire clip that retains the plunger/piston it's self. There is a lot of stock placed on how hard the push rod resists twisting with this much preload, but I don't trust my own touch to say how much you should feel. |
Not to hijack the thread but I have a question about pushrod length and rocker position. You can adjust the pattern on the tip of the valve stem by either changing the pushrod length, or the height of the rocker arm, if it was adjustable. If the nominal length is 6.25", and I find the pattern it generates is not quite centered, should I adjust the pushrod length or the rocker height?
A related question: Would the nominal pushrod length be the same with traditional adjustable rockers vs pedestal rockers? |
The centering of the roller on the tip of the stem is a function of the height of the pedestal (shims) on a non-adjustable rocker & not push rod length.
PR length will create the range or width of travel across the stem tip. I strongly suggest a PR length checker, even the cheapest. |
I would contact the rocker manufacturer for how much preload they call for on the lifters to be honest, then check the pattern from that. For example, my scorpion 1.6's called for X amount of torque to occur between 1/4 and 3/4 turn after zero lash.
2nd the use of an adjustable push rod length checker; best to get it right the first time. All that being said, with that wear pattern I'd run it. |
I just checked my shims I have 2 thickness.0239 and .0359 these in a perfect world would get me on each side of the .030 if I use a 6.250 <acronym title="Page Ranking">pr</acronym>. am I doing the math correct or not and would that move the roller tip? And so should I get the 6.250 <acronym title="Page Ranking">pr</acronym> or is the shim not a direct effect, a ratio it’s not in a direct line with the pr ok I have 2 thickness shims if I put the .0239 under the exhaust rocker and the .0359 under the intake rocker for TEST purposes only and roll the crank for patern check would that do any damage? Should be ok |
I've used the stock 6.25" pushrods on a half dozen roller 5.0's now and all were fine as is with 1.7 Cobra rockers. Even used em on my 331 with Milled Canfield heads (.060) and Comp Cams 1.7 stud mount rockers. That one's been together now for 14 years.
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I have the Comp Cam's <acronym title="Page Ranking">PR</acronym> length checker, which uses a 1/4-28 thread inside. My combination is a 1968 302 block, Comp Cam's retrofit roller cam 31-442-8, Edelbrock 60379 heads with the pedestal rocker mounts. Comp recommends a 6.4" <acronym title="Page Ranking">PR</acronym>, but I'm not sure if that meant it's for the old style heads with the stud mounted rockers. I'm seeing almost 0.1" difference between the 2 heads.
I'll take the advice on the separate steps of centering the pattern, and setting its width. That's the exact information I was looking for. thanks. |
Originally Posted by Glaser67
(Post 18452339)
I would contact the rocker manufacturer for how much preload they call for on the lifters to be honest, then check the pattern from that...
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Originally Posted by xlt4wd90
(Post 18452976)
I'll take the advice on the separate steps of centering the pattern, and setting its width. That's the exact information I was looking for. thanks.
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Thanks, I was thinking about how to SHORTEN a pedestal if the pattern called for it. So some fudging can be done with the pushrod length, at the cost of spreading out the pattern.
But looking at the stock patterns, few of them were dead on center, and most of them had different widths. There must be some variance due to the hydraulic behavior in the lifters. |
Originally Posted by xlt4wd90
(Post 18452976)
I have the Comp Cam's <acronym title="Page Ranking"><acronym title="Page Ranking"><acronym title="Page Ranking">PR</acronym></acronym></acronym> length checker, which uses a 1/4-28 thread inside. My combination is a 1968 302 block, Comp Cam's retrofit roller cam 31-442-8, Edelbrock 60379 heads with the pedestal rocker mounts. Comp recommends a 6.4" <acronym title="Page Ranking"><acronym title="Page Ranking"><acronym title="Page Ranking">PR</acronym></acronym></acronym>, but I'm not sure if that meant it's for the old style heads with the stud mounted rockers. I'm seeing almost 0.1" difference between the 2 heads.
I'll take the advice on the separate steps of centering the pattern, and setting its width. That's the exact information I was looking for. thanks. |
Originally Posted by xlt4wd90
(Post 18453493)
There must be some variance due to the hydraulic behavior in the lifters.
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https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...2e965f87c.jpeg push rods came so this is number 1. I have .060 preload maybe a little more I’ll ck into that later. All the patterns are very close to these I’m a little concerned by that with the gap at the lifters over sized |
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It believe it would be difficult to get it much better than that with pedestal mounts, If it were me I'd run it without a second thought, assuming the preload is what the rocker manufacturer specs. Others may chime in with ways to narrow the pattern, perhaps center it, but if its even possible, you would have to make very precise measurements. On a nice street build like you got, I'd say you are easily within spec. I'd run it without a doubt.
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Originally Posted by Glaser67
(Post 18464079)
It believe it would be difficult to get it much better than that with pedestal mounts, If it were me I'd run it without a second thought, assuming the preload is what the rocker manufacturer specs. Others may chime in with ways to narrow the pattern, perhaps center it, but if its even possible, you would have to make very precise measurements. On a nice street build like you got, I'd say you are easily within spec. I'd run it without a doubt.
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