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Originally Posted by xlt4wd90
(Post 18329613)
It looks almost like the flex plate was too shallow, allowing the front of the torque converter to hit the crank bolts. If there was damage, it would be inside the front of the TC.
The last time I installed a torque converter, it had 4 distinct engagement steps on the intake shaft (4 speed OD). When it was fully seated, its slop would just scrape the bell housing, but once it's bolted to the flex plate, it would line up properly. I'll also note that I was able to use just my fingers to join the transmission (on rolling jack) to the engine; there should be no excessive force required. If there were excessive resistance, something is not lined up correctly, and forcing it will damage parts. |
I didn’t see any signs on the starter that it was wrong nor any vibration at idle. Worked ok for being ten years on a rebuild |
Got most of the stripping done, think I had a couple of leaking cylinders I noticed an increase in oil leaks this summer https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...1fa293e01.jpegAlmost stp |
I’ll try to stay on track with this and state here what I would like this truck to be engine wise. i want to keep the the stock EFI it’s working good as far as I can tell. would like to get 20 mpg I have the AOD with 3.4 rear end. want a roller cam that works with the stock firing order. around 200+hp and idle smoothly. I don’t want headers at this time have stock manifold into 2 1/4 exhaust. so i ideas on a cam ? |
What year 5.0 is that you're tearing down ? The 94-97 pickup/van and Explorer cam will give you what you want.
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Originally Posted by baddad457
(Post 18330823)
What year 5.0 is that you're tearing down ? The 94-97 pickup/van and Explorer cam will give you what you want.
have you got a part # for that cam and stock or after market? |
I cant believe no one has mentioned, but your power goal and whole lot more is going to be cheap and easy to get to. Go grab heads off a 97-01 explorer / mountaineer, and intake manifold off a 96-98? ex / mountaineer. The earlier one is a little bit better, mostly just a better designed casting with thicker ears. The heads alone are 30-40hp over the E7TE's you have on there, intake is another 10-15 probably. The truck cam is pretty decent, but would benefit from 1.7 roller rockers, or you can just get something like a TFS stage 1 cam. With the RR or cam and that top end, you should be close to 275rwhp. I picked up my GT40p heads for $62 at the junkyard. The caveat to the P heads is you will need to buy springs, but you can find cheap ones here, im going to run them on my P heads, lots of fox guys use them.
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Head was leaking this is #1 cylinder I think #8 was also had a lot of carbon https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...b1019a91b.jpeg |
The hole for the lifter retainer looks like it maybe 3/16 dia seams small to me https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...2f3d437a9.jpeg |
The holes for the spider are 1/4-20. Comp cams has instructions on how to prepare the block:
Drill a 13/64" hole exactly 3/8" deep. Use a 1/4-20 taper tap to start cutting the threads into the hole Then use a 1/4-20 bottoming tap to complete the threads They also tell you to cover the oil drain holes to prevent drilling debris from falling in. But since you're going to clean out the block anyway, that may not matter as much. They sell a spider and retainer kit for the roller blocks that did not come prepped for rollers CCA-31-1001. You can probably find these parts in your local junkyard, |
Originally Posted by xlt4wd90
(Post 18332011)
The holes for the spider are 1/4-20. Comp cams has instructions on how to prepare the block:
Drill a 13/64" hole exactly 3/8" deep. Use a 1/4-20 taper tap to start cutting the threads into the hole Then use a 1/4-20 bottoming tap to complete the threads They also tell you to cover the oil drain holes to prevent drilling debris from falling in. But since you're going to clean out the block anyway, that may not matter as much. They sell a spider and retainer kit for the roller blocks that did not come prepped for rollers CCA-31-1001. You can probably find these parts in your local junkyard, |
Sorry, I left out the first part of the instructions, which was to install the lifters and the dog bones, and then place the spider on them to locate the bolt holes for drilling.
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Originally Posted by hairyboxnoogle
(Post 18331013)
I cant believe no one has mentioned, but your power goal and whole lot more is going to be cheap and easy to get to. Go grab heads off a 97-01 explorer / mountaineer, and intake manifold off a 96-98? ex / mountaineer. The earlier one is a little bit better, mostly just a better designed casting with thicker ears. The heads alone are 30-40hp over the E7TE's you have on there, intake is another 10-15 probably. The truck cam is pretty decent, but would benefit from 1.7 roller rockers, or you can just get something like a TFS stage 1 cam. With the RR or cam and that top end, you should be close to 275rwhp. I picked up my GT40p heads for $62 at the junkyard. The caveat to the P heads is you will need to buy springs, but you can find cheap ones here, im going to run them on my P heads, lots of fox guys use them.
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Originally Posted by schoo
(Post 18330858)
the donor was a 89 E250 5.0 EFI thing is I don’t believe that the flex plate was changed the engine is original I did not own it so I could be wrong. The transmission was overhauled/replaced I have a receipt dated 07’ have you got a part # for that cam and stock or after market? |
I’m going to use the heAds I have the GT40 heAds are hard to find here |
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