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schoo 09-17-2017 03:52 PM

ok I found some answers I have read that I just change the firing order at the dizzy
and the injection wont care? is that true

xlt4wd90 09-17-2017 05:11 PM

Early trucks used bank-fired injectors so timing them is not needed but if you use the EEC from a later truck don't know what year they went sequential or a HO Mustang the injectors would be sequential and the injector order will be important for good driveability and efficiency

Conanski 09-17-2017 05:14 PM

Originally Posted by schoo (Post 17469331)
I have read that I just change the firing order at the dizzy and the injection wont care? is that true

Yes it is.

Conanski 09-17-2017 05:16 PM

Originally Posted by xlt4wd90 (Post 17469440)
if you use the EEC from a later truck

Don't do this unless you are prepared for involved wiring harness modifications.

schoo 09-17-2017 06:12 PM

Originally Posted by Conanski (Post 17469451)
Don't do this unless you are prepared for involved wiring harness modifications.

Yes I know now

schoo 09-17-2017 06:27 PM

Are these roller lifters

xlt4wd90 09-17-2017 08:11 PM

Yes they are the center spider is holding down the dogbones that keep the lifters aligned so their rollers can roll on the cam lobes

schoo 09-17-2017 09:24 PM

Thank you I thought it was it's on CL the guy wants $500 for it and all I need is the cam and parts

schoo 11-21-2018 04:20 PM

Bumping my old thread and getting started

schoo 11-22-2018 01:57 PM
Getting started got the hood off looking at the radiator/AC more work than I remember

Beanscoot 11-22-2018 08:50 PM

Wow, that truck looks amazing. The modern aluminum radiator looks a little out of place, but then it won't show with the hood down.

fordman75 11-22-2018 09:37 PM

I don't think you can just throw a roller cam set up in the flat tappet block using the stock roller cam parts. If I remember correctly the lifter bores are different heights. If you just install the roller parts in the flat tappet block you could end up with a lifter that spins. That destroys the cam and spreads metal particles throughout the engine. Which then requires a complete rebuild.

I'm going thru this same deal right now on my 89 351W. I'm wanting to convert it to a roller cam. If you want to keep your current short block, I believe you will need to pick up a set of aftermarket link bar roller lifters. These have bars that connect the lifters into pairs to keep them from spinning. Instead of the stock spider and dog bones that are used on the stock roller set ups. The ones I was looking at for my 351W are going to run around $400.

The other choice is to pick up another short block that already has the roller cam set up. This could be out of Mustang, T-Bird, Crown vic or the 96-2000 or so Explorers. The Explorer engines are fairly easy & cheap to find. Plus they will also have the cast iron GT40 ( 3 bar, 96 to early 97 ) or GT40P ( 4 bar, mid 97+ ) heads which are better then your current heads. I picked up a pair of the GT40 heads for my 351W. The GT40P's have the spark plugs at a different angle. So if you want to run something besides the stock GT40P manifold/headers you may run into issues and need special headers. That is why if given a choice most people try to stick with the GT40's over the GT40P's. But the P's are easier to find.

If you get the explorer engine you can run your current EFI and distributor ( explorers 5.0L's don't run distributors ) but you will need to change your distributor drive gear.

With your current engine I would do a compression test and leak down test. That will give you an idea on the condition of your cylinders & rings in your current engine. Also hook up a vacuum gauge. Then decide how far you want to tear into the engine or just replace it.

xlt4wd90 11-23-2018 12:36 AM

Comp Cams makes a series of small base circle roller cams for flat tappet engines that do not have the taller lifter bores. They also have the retainer dog-bones and spider retainer for use with roller lifters with the alignment flats, like Ford's stock rollers.

Summit racing has lots of bad reviews of link bar roller lifters failing.

Scndsin 11-23-2018 07:19 AM

Every 5.0 block made since 85 is "roller" capable. Add a set of lifters, the spider & dog bones. Get the hold down bolts too.

5.8 blocks were not cast with tall lifter bores till '94.

Super nice truck.

schoo 11-23-2018 08:30 AM

Thanks for the info guys my research is that it should be a roller block(89) but won’t know for sure until I get it open

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