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-   -   I gambled and maybe I (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1503670-i-gambled-and-maybe-i.html)

schoo 01-02-2019 01:09 PM

Iím using a standard oil pump not a hi pressure one, stock computer, if I canít get a new drive gear can I get a distributor that will work with a California (carb) computer the stock distributor has a steel/plastic gear that should be compatible with my cam? Maybe Iím making more work out of this
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...c8ae2f5b3.jpeg

schoo 01-02-2019 01:15 PM


Originally Posted by Scndsin (Post 18394615)
Wow. That's pretty lame. It's not hard to drive out the roll pin. The physical effort to press off the gear is minimal.

This is the first hit I got on Google. I'm sure there's more:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X424x6Qe1VY

thanks Dave Iíll check out how to put one on next

schoo 01-02-2019 02:36 PM


Originally Posted by schoo (Post 18394658)

thanks Dave Iíll check out how to put one on next

Ford Racing has a instruction sheet on their site

Scndsin 01-02-2019 07:31 PM

Let's regroup for a moment. If your original dist was functional, you should be fine with just the right diam. steel gear from Summit.

Take the shutter wheel off & clean any particles off the PIP magnet

You don't need a polymer gear, even if your original (?) was plastic

Like I said, a Motorcraft PIP would be great preventative measure.

You could pick up a completely new aftermarket (Duralast seems to be good, lifetime warranty) distributor for a 87-93 HO Mustang & that would/should have the "On -Board" ignition control module that should plug up to your existing harness AND a gear for a roller cam.

Put your existing ICM on the replacement dist (or get the same color Motorcraft), they come with & without.

Don't think any of this will tweak an inspector any more than your late model engine would I guess.

In the "if it were me" dept, I'd spend the $15 or whatever on an ARP oil pump shaft. It's cheap insurance on an old part that sometimes fatigues & breaks or twists like a candy cane. (Google images)

A reg volume oil pump is fine if your clearances are anywhere close to being in spec after rebuild.

baddad457 01-02-2019 07:58 PM


Originally Posted by Scndsin (Post 18393201)
Use a steel gear.

This would be fine for your application if you can't a Motorcraft part.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-850460/overview/make/ford

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-850461/overview/make/ford


Measure the shaft.

(Edit) larger shaft probably for 351/5.8, my bad.

The later EFI distributors for the 5.0 use the larger ID gear. Points distributors and early Durasparks use the smaller ID gear.

schoo 01-02-2019 08:53 PM


Originally Posted by baddad457 (Post 18395518)
The later EFI distributors for the 5.0 use the larger ID gear. Points distributors and early Durasparks use the smaller ID gear.

mine is the smaller gear my shaft is less than .500 the big one is .530

schoo 01-02-2019 08:59 PM


Originally Posted by Scndsin (Post 18395456)
Let's regroup for a moment. If your original dist was functional, you should be fine with just the right diam. steel gear from Summit.

Take the shutter wheel off & clean any particles off the PIP magnet

You don't need a polymer gear, even if your original (?) was plastic

Like I said, a Motorcraft PIP would be great preventative measure.

You could pick up a completely new aftermarket (Duralast seems to be good, lifetime warranty) distributor for a 87-93 HO Mustang & that would/should have the "On -Board" ignition control module that should plug up to your existing harness AND a gear for a roller cam.

Put your existing ICM on the replacement dist (or get the same color Motorcraft), they come with & without.

Don't think any of this will tweak an inspector any more than your late model engine would I guess.

In the "if it were me" dept, I'd spend the $15 or whatever on an ARP oil pump shaft. It's cheap insurance on an old part that sometimes fatigues & breaks or twists like a candy cane. (Google images)

A reg volume oil pump is fine if your clearances are anywhere close to being in spec after rebuild.

i will keep this in mind about the distributor but mine is California CARB so I hope for the best. Iíve already got the arp shaft.
I donít have to pass any inspection just you guys opinion is all I worry about

Scndsin 01-03-2019 02:21 AM

OK. I get it. You're concerned that you need a "cali only" vs a "49 state" only distributor.

Would not sweat it. A 49 state distributor will do fine.

Just don't go the re-manufactured route because no rebuilder seems to replace the PIP with a Motorcraft replacement if AT ALL. :(

schoo 01-03-2019 08:44 AM


Originally Posted by Scndsin (Post 18396024)
OK. I get it. You're concerned that you need a "cali only" vs a "49 state" only distributor.

Would not sweat it. A 49 state distributor will do fine.

Just don't go the re-manufactured route because no rebuilder seems to replace the PIP with a Motorcraft replacement if AT ALL. :(

I’m sure you are absolutely correct on this I am big on oem

schoo 01-06-2019 04:15 PM

I got a little done today my heads came finally it took a month UPS slow.
Bolted up the crank and cam
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...0c46ad399.jpeg
​​​​​​

Scndsin 01-06-2019 05:54 PM

The feeling of progress is great, ain't it?

schoo 01-06-2019 06:24 PM

I have very little end play in the crank
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...2b96d0110.jpeg
Turns with one hand
Yes had a good day

Tim Young 01-06-2019 07:44 PM

Looks like your making progress, looks good!

baddad457 01-06-2019 08:57 PM


Originally Posted by Scndsin (Post 18396024)
OK. I get it. You're concerned that you need a "cali only" vs a "49 state" only distributor.

Would not sweat it. A 49 state distributor will do fine.

Just don't go the re-manufactured route because no rebuilder seems to replace the PIP with a Motorcraft replacement if AT ALL. :(

I put a reman 85 Stang distributor in my 331 14 years ago and it's still doing the job.

fordman75 01-06-2019 09:35 PM


Originally Posted by baddad457 (Post 18403028)
I put a reman 85 Stang distributor in my 331 14 years ago and it's still doing the job.

A reman'd unit from 14 years ago is a hell of lot better quality then one from today too. Now it's not uncommon for the part to be bad right out of the box. I quit buying reman'd starters because it got so bad. If I have to buy one I have them test it before I even leave the store with it! Nothing makes a person royally ticked off like driving 20 miles to buy a starter, drive 20 miles home only to find out your new reman'd starter is junk! I had that happen more then once.


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