They start it up in SoCal. OBDII test, visual inspection, then they fire it up. They check the idle to see that it doesn't belch smoke then rev it 3 times to about 3000 RPM. The first is a freebie to "clean it out" then they check your mirror the other 2 times to make sure that you don't smoke "excessively". I don't know what they teach the technicians for opacity before they fail you (haze, dust, or black smoke) but it's a gut check by the technician. No sniffer in the tailpipe. The only pass/fail outside the control of the station is the OBDII test. Everything else is a judgement call.

Some stations down here are more familiar with the guidelines than others and some are more 'friendly' than others. I've failed because I had a 6637 filter (allowed by regulations) and I've passed with my 6637 filter, AIH deleted, and chip installed at other stations.

You'll have a hard time keeping it on if you don't take CAC pipes and boots off and clean them.

I'm down South near Corona Ca., Riverside county. No we have the full inspection here except sniffer in the tail pipe and on the rollers. They snap test for smoke after visual.

Hydro.. He down here in So Cal. They've gotten where over the years. Injecting under the goo, snap test, making sure CARB stickers are there, checking cats...etc.

I've held out on doing anything to the truck because of testing. Now, that it's getn AZ plates, maybe a KC turbo and injectors are in the future😈

Timmy, Have heard that AZ. can be even tougher that Ca. Don't know if I have them confused with somewhere else though.

I am working to address the CAC boot on the passenger side at the spider in this thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post17601726

If it works out, I'll have pics and tips.

I was considering a ring as CountryCar suggested, have ordered a longer boot to get over the existing pipe ridge as SkySkiJason suggested (which I have been doing with the RRD boot but it is too short and makes this quite difficult).

I'm trying to get a raised ridge using a seaming machine (well, my buddy is going to try it) near the end of the pipe. I'm letting the choice of location, style, whatever up to him.

Failing that, TIG a ring or ridge in the recess.

I have a 6" long boot coming to replace the approx 4" from RRD. One of the solutions should make a difference.

I appreciate all the tips and suggestions. I'm done fooling around with an if-fy connection that has far too much frustration and risk of failure. Welder and chain might be the next step! :-missingt LOL.

Small chance I will have the tubing tonight. Better chance of Wed-Thurs for the tubing and the boot comes Wed.

We're doing Thanksgiving at home with just our family, maybe invite some friends, so tinkering time! :-drink

My stock blue boots have a ridge on the inside that goes in a groove on the pipes. I noticed it when washing them. Are all the stock ones like this? Some were mentioning stock tbolt clamps with springs. both of my trucks have these at the intercooler but spyder are plain tbolt.

I have been running a set of Dieselsite boots for most of my years with the truck and they have been great (http://www.dieselsite.com/73lpowerstroke.aspx). I have the engine and intercooler boot kits. I've only had one boot "blowout" (see post #9) but that was due to loose clamps. The spider-to-CAC tube boots are more than long enough to fully seat to the lip on the spider and go over the lip on the CAC tubes. The only downfall is that the CAC tubes were a bear to get in or out until I installed my 6.0 IC.

I've been told that the OEM boots fit into those ridges, but I threw my stock boots away when I got these. I wish I'd kept them :(

My CAC tubing to IC boots are pretty good. I did have a leak on one on the driver's side and had to tighten pretty tight- but that might be related to the over-seating I mentioned at the spider.

I'm hoping to solve these issues ;)

Hopefully it's an easy fix (and inexpensive too). It's been a long time and I don't think I have my OEM boots any more otherwise I'd send them to you.

I was lucky enough to stumble onto the Dieselsite boots before my truck started to nickel and dime me and the "gee this would be nice to have" funds went in the crapper.

I appreciate the offer, but it would be more to test and work it out. The new 6" boot I ordered was around $20, no big deal. I think $27 at XDP, but it would have been next week before getting here and I plan on working things out this week.

So I'll be okay with this solution. If I find the "Holy smokes, this is the perfect remedy" I will be sure to share that, too ;)

AN fittings and heavy flex lines are on my "fix a PIA" list, too ;)

Gotta find a good regulator or something to build a decent Regulated Return. But that is later ;)

i just purchased those for the upgrades I have planned. The clamps are no joke and the boots seem longer than the stockers. I'm pretty sure mine are the originals from when the PO put in a Banks IC.

Yep, right after the uppies and turbo rebuild. Just a couple miles from another forum members shop. Somewhat expected so not so scary.

After the injector swap I put on a new set from Riffraff. They held fine yesterday at 35# and climbing.

Look into FlexFab boots, this things are design for commercial use, i just bought one for my obs and they are design just like the OEM ones and take some serious boost.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...3faae1e38f.jpg
I got mine locally but I see you can buy them on ebay.

Got an inside pic? Does it have the ridge like stockers?