Lol that hole is supposed to be there. That's a rear main seal drip from the engine not trans oil. The hole is there just for that reason so any oil doesn't collect and end up on the clutch.

That is a drip hole, not from a rock. Here is mine

Boy do I feel dumb. It was making a nice stain in my driveway so I was worried that I was losing fluid. Looks like I'll be undoing that tomorrow. Good thing I didn't weld it. ;)

Yea! That's a good thing, tried to catch you before you did it, I keep a piece of cardboard right under mine so I don't stain the concrete ( even though I have plenty of stains already ) :-roll

Oh well at least learned something new.

Yeah that's half the reason I have this thread: so that you can guys can let me know when I mess up. :)

I got the JB Weld off easy enough so that's all figured taken care of. It looks like there is some fluid dropping from the cover on the side of the trans though. Do the T-18's need fluid changed every so often? I thought I read somewhere that it's pretty much the same Gear oil that the rear end takes.

Also, does anyone know where I can get some metal for my floor? I need more than just pans but don't know where to buy them from. Thanks.

Go got my Sunpro tach installed the other day. Today I took a drive up to Lime Rock for Caffeine and Carburetors. It wasn't that great of a turnout but there was still some pretty cool stuff there.



https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...bac8761f5d.jpg

Love the look of your tach. Just wish there was a better mount than the cheesy worm clamp!

Yeah I agree. I don't mind because the whole truck is a little ratty but if my truck was a bit nice I would be disappointed. The radius of the base is much bigger than the steering column so it doesn't sit too well.

Well it seems that I'm in a bit of a pickle. My floors are pretty shot and I've got two options. I can buy pans and the rear half of the floor for about 350 total, not including shipping. I would then have to have it welded in for an unknown price. My other option is to find a rust free cab and just swap it. This is a somewhat big job for me and I'm trying to get it down before I leave for college in August. I think they will both be around the same price assuming I can get a cab cheap enough. I'm not too worried about mismatched paint so long as I don't have any rust.

I would swap cabs. Even if you have to do minor rust repair, I think you will make out better.

Fix your floors. Buy a cheap welder at HF and go for it. It's not difficult, and doesn't have to be pretty because it will be under carpet. Watch some videos on YouTube and peruse threads on here. You will learn something new and your truck will still look as great as it does now.

David :)

I kinda doubt you can get a good cab to your location for 350ish. Also, be aware that not all cabs are the same...standard transmission vs automatic, AC vs non-AC and transmission hump for 4x4 vs 4x2.

I'd do like the other post-get a harbor freight welder, and give it a go. By the time you do one floor pan you'll have the technique down and will be able to do other stuff.

Either way, keep us posted on your progress!

Sorry, what I meant was I'm hoping to get one for about the same price as the floors being done professionally ($350+labor). I will definitely keep putting out updates, though. Thanks for the advice everyone.

back bumper
 

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...98d8a221f1.jpg
1976 camper special