Slight bucking while towing
 

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Tried more and less load on the WD hitch by adjusting the bars without any change. Should I have loaded this rear engine car on backwards to get more tongue weight?

In my "professional" opinion, yes. That car should be loaded backwards. Load it up heavy on the tongue. That's what your WD hitch is for.

Or, try it without the WD. It might be about right in weight carrying configuration.

Try towing it like that without the weight distribution set up.

I agree with towing without the weight distribution setup since you really don't need it. Also I would use a drop receiver to get the trailer frame level or load it backwards see if that gets it level.

I have the WD hitch lowered as far as it will go and I didn't notice that the trailer was slightly nose up until I took the picture. Without the WD bars the back of the truck squats down.

You shouldn't need the WD hitch at all for that if it's done properly. I don't use one, and you've seen what I do. (Not that I couldn't possibly benefit from one)

Get trailer closer to level, let truck squat 2" or so. That trailer and buggy can't weigh more than 5000lbs.... and i would estimate closer to 4,000. which means roughly 400-500lbs of tongue weight.

What ever you are towing on a car trailer does not have to be all the forward on the deck. That is the benefit of something on wheels. I try to watch as I am loading and let the truck squat about an inch then I tie down what I'm hauling.

The weight distribution hitch should have nothing to do with a buck type feel. Have you hauled the trailer empty, how did it feel then?

Yes I pulled the trailer empty with the same WD hitch but without the WD bars and it tows fine.

The trailer weighs 1900 lbs for sure and I think the car is about 1700 lbs but I haven't weighed it. I was advised on this forum not to let the back of the truck squat. That would take weight off of the front tires and jeopardize steering. So I always use the load bars when I have the trailer loaded. It didn't buck with my '67 F100 on it. And soon it will have a water tank that will weigh 8600 lbe when full.

Maybe it was most to do with the trailer not being level and being slightly upward canted.

Let the truck squat. A couple inches doesn't make any real difference, there is still plenty of weight over the front tires. Trust me, you'll know when you've got it too heavy....

Level trailers do tow the best....

So your looking at around 4600lbs loaded. That's not even enough to justify using a WD hitch.

My advice to you, find a regular ball mount that has the correct amount of drop to make the trailer sit slightly nose up when empty. Then put the car on it until truck squats about 2" farther.

Try that, and I bet it'll tow like a dream.

Yep 100% agreement with 351Clevelandc4.

I have been towing since I could drive, I've hauled more stuff, vehicles, boats than you can shake a stick at. I always have the back end squat a couple inches.

This was the last thing I hauled, it was just a bit farther forward than I would have liked it but I only went about 10 miles. Tractor weighs about 4000# trailer is about 2000#, my truck really had no issue at all with it.

I have never used a weight distributing hitch on a car trailer for the simple fact that I can move the vehicle back and forth until I have the best ride possible.

the heaviest part of the car is on the wrong end of trailer..

back the car onto trailer.. but keep the front wheels of the car near rear of trailer.

my opinion... and is worth what you paid > :) <

Ok, the WD hitch was purchased for towing my '67 F100. It worked fine for that but I guess it's overkill for this light weight car. Without the load bars being used I was getting a lot of folks flashing their lights at me at night. So once I cranked up the load bars that all stopped because the lights were back where they should be. I guess I should find out where the headlight height adjusting screw is, and just remember how many turns it takes to adjust the lights for trailer use.

Unless your gonna be towing at night all the time, id not worry about the headlights...

That car properly loaded should only make the truck squat about 3". Which, overall, doesn't change the angle of things much.

My 2013 FX4 has those eye busting HID headlights. They are very bright so if they're not aimed right they are blinding.


I'll have to measure the length of the bed on my one ton flat bed truck, maybe the car could sit on that. It can certainly climb some steep ramps, but that truck is not that fun to drive long distance. To make it better I could probably add an overdrive unit, a stereo, and some sound deadening for the cost of a trailer. The trailer that is on in the picture will be getting a water tank mounted on it so I was thinking that I would build a custom car trailer.

Looking at the picture, get rid of the weight bars. Not needed. Also, you can try loading the car engine first. However, the back axle of the car sits forward of the tandem midline. Simply put, the weight is ahead of the axles. That's a good thing.

If it bucks without the bars, load the car aft end first.