Motorcraft Full Synthetic
 

Anyone have a theory on why the Motorcraft full synthetic diesel oil is so expensive? When I'm due an oil change would like to go full synthetic, and stay OEM, but gosh that stuff makes T6 Rotella look cheap. Any bargains that anyone knows of on the Motorcraft? Was going to go with 5W-40 in my '16 6.7. Thanks in advance.

no clue. The oil is made by someone, maybe even Shell. Have noticed same that Fords loves their full synthetics.

Because it has the FoMoCo name on it. Honestly a lot of the full synthetic that are name brands are pretty good. More than a few guys here run Rotella T6 and I dont think I have heard anyone complain about it

And as JustStrokin said someone make sit for Ford, just like you see some auto stores and gas station with their name brand oil, those are made by someone with their name slapped on em. The OEM stuff is fine, but You will do just as well with the the Rotella T6 in the engine

Any name brand oil that meets API CJ-4, or the new CH-4 certification (which will be nearly every oil on a retail shelf) will be acceptable. Avoid FA-4 oil, if you find it, I doubt you will. It's a new oil certification that is not backwards compatible.

Use of a low weight oil, 5w-40 like you said, is preferred to help the engine when it's cold.

Keep in mind that the term "synthetic" actually means nothing, and is technically a marketing term. Most synthetic oils are a kind of synthetic blend, but since synthetic doesn't have a definition, it means different things from brand to brand.

All of the major brands make quality oil you can use and rest easy with.

I always preferred Shell Rotella T5 or T6 and Mobil Turbo Diesel Truck, although the other Mobil products were good as well, such as the Delvac.

No, it won't be acceptable.

CH-4 is a very old standard from almost 20 years ago, that has since been superseded by the API four times... by CI-4, then CI-4 Plus, then CJ-4, and most recently, CK-4.

And CK-4, the latest API diesel oil standard which went into effect one month ago, is specifically NOT approved by Ford. Ford issued the following statement last year:


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...85c50420b1.jpg

That was a typo, I meant CK-4, but I hadn't heard Ford was not recommending it. Thank you for the information!

I always used Rotella T in my '02 F250, when I sold it at 140K it was running perfectly. I just changed the oil for the first time in my new '16 dually, this time I used Rotella T6 with a Motorcraft filter. I bought it all at Walmart for about $85.

I think Ford filters are a MUST in these trucks, it may cost a little more but with the price of an engine and some of the aftermarket filters not doing the job at times, I dont think I would chance especially with the 6.7's engine and replacement cost

..........man you got that right, $18 for a Motorcraft filter and $9 for a Fram, can you imagine what Ford would tell you if you got towed in with an engine problem and they saw a Fram filter under there.

I don't think that running full synthetic extends the change mileage, so I don't see spending the extra $. Just my thought .
John

Synthetic oil is better for the gaskets and seals. Its better for fuel millage. It handles heat better. Reduces friction better. You can go further between oil changes.
The benefits outweigh the cost. I get my oil changed at the dealer and its $100 including filter. I have found some dealers are cheaper than mine here in Ca.

If you are getting an oil change for $100 at the dealer then I would hazard a guess and say you are getting 10w30 which is not synthetic. It's straight up dino oil.

https://www.fordparts.com/Products/C...MotorOils.aspx

I just went through this with my dealer. Told them I wanted 5w-40 going in. Didn't know how much that cost and found as I was driving away that I knew the $99 sounded awfully cheap. They put 10w-30 in it. After finding that cap was left off too, I had another dealer re-do it and use 5w-40 synthetic. That bill ran over $220! Thankfully, the first dealer covered the costs but from now on i'll be using Mobil 1 or RT6 5w-40 because I tow often and we have a wide range of temps here that make 10w-30 harder to use.

That's not true. Full synthetic motor oil has a different molecular structure which enables it to maintain it's designed viscosity range better over longer change intervals and temperature ranges:

I used to think synthetic was better...but I've come to the conclusion that green crude is better. synthetic works great when new..but shears quickly leaving you with base stock weigh / base stock weight+new post shear value, so a 5W40 could turn into 5W30 or 5W25 pretty quickly.

That's just your 6.4 diluting the oil all the time. :D (j/k)


Seriously though, how did you determine your loss in shear values? A string of analysis reports? This thread would be a good time to explain more about the findings you are basing your "new" thinking regarding synthetics on. I'm certainly curious, and I'll bet the OP would be too.