2011 6.7 brake replacement
 

Hey guys tomorrow I'm gonna replace my front and rear brake pads. Any tips? Do i need to pull the rotor off and clean the axel? i've watched a couple of youtube videos but they leave me with a few answers. I have all the tools, what kinda lubricants will i need? any recommendations? I hoping I can do a flawless job without and squealing

is this a SRW or a DRW?


SRW axles don't need to come out.

SRW, do i need to take the rotor off and clean the back side?

personally I don't see why unless you have worn some grooves in it. And then I would probably replace the rotor.


But really no reason to take them off and clean them. Not sure how you would clean them really.

Replace the rotors, they are throw away now.

I checked my front rotors with a micrometer and compared it to factory specs, having them cut would have made them too thin. The tech at ford even told me that they just replace now.

Brakes aren't the thing to cheap out on.

replace them with only 78K?!?!?!?!

Mine were toast at 50,000 miles.. My truck gets worked and is a daily driver, At least 2 times a week I tow a 15k trailer.

Absolutely yes, replace them.

You will need a 16mm (5/8") socket to remove the bolts that secure the front and the rear brake calipers to the caliper brackets. And a 21mm (1/2" drive) socket to remove the caliper brackets, both front and rear to enable brake rotor removal for replacement.

One thing the video didn't show, was when you push the piston back in do u need to remove the cab on the master cylinder ? so i don't make a mess when it over fills. do i need to take out some fluid? should i replace the fluid?

yes, take the cap off so the fluid has a place to go. No need to take any out.

Craftsman make a neat tool for compressing the pistons on a dual piston caliper. About$20.

I never push fluid back out of the caliper into the master cylinder. I always loosen the bleeder valve and drain the fluid out that way. Than just add new fluid to the system. If the fluid is dirty or old than I flush the system with a power bleeder. like this one Motive Power Brake Bleeder 4 qt. Capacity GM Ford Universal Attachments Kit 0350 | eBay
I didn't get mine on Ebay but that thing worked great and no air in the system. I did however remove as much old fluid and replaced it with new before I started to bleed the system. You dont need to fill it above the full line.

A C clamp works just fine and doesn't cost $20

been using c clamps since day one.