brake bleeder nipples all rusted, twisted off!
 

I know I could replace all of the calipers and wheel cylinders, but am trying to avoid that-it's getting very expensive. So, should I try an easy-out, or is that no good since everything is a rusty nightmare? How about drilling and tapping to a bigger bleeder size? This is a new problem to me because rust wasn't a problem in Texas, but is in Wisconsin!

A bigger size would have a bigger seat and I don't think one can duplicate the proper seat angle. You might try an EZ Out but use some PB Blaster, etc. way ahead of time. Bleeder screws are crossed drilled on the seat angle so the hole from end doesn't go all the way through. That said, most EZ Outs would be too long so you may have to shorten it.

I would suggest you cut your losses. If you can't afford re-manufactured calipers & wheel cylinders, the check local boneyards for some with less rust damage. You may spend more time & money trying to avoid spending time and money and it is a lost cause.
Check for online sources for the parts you need if local sources are more than you can afford. You might find full caliper/rotor/pad 'kits' for sale on the bay and the river. Hmm, the river leads to the bay, right? Check the river first... Ha.
tom

I have not broken a bleeder nipple in 30 years so my suggestion may be out of date but I would replace with remanufactured calipers. On a broader note, forcing a fastener never works. Instead use heat, or soak and tap. If you can get any motion, work it carefully back and forth. Rust cause metal to expand which is why all rusted joints bind. It is best to work key components every few years (bleeders, spark plugs, lug nuts, brake pads, brake drums).

I'm fan of left fluted drills myself for such removals. They either heat/vibrate the threads loose and remove the bleeder (or broken bolt) or make a hole for an easy out. More often than not, the bolt comes out during the drilling process.
If you choose the drill size carefully and keep the drill straight, the threads are left intact and in the case of a broken bleeder the seat is intact assuming you are extremely careful about the depth.
Simply drill the same as if you had a standard drill bit but the drill is reverse and applies force to unscrew the threads.

There's nothing more fun than sticking your head up inside a rear wheel well with a MAP torch in one hand! :D

I once welded the floor back into a 1961 Corvair. Laying on.my back welding steel and catching what seemed like ALL the fodder on my chest has to be comparable.

I am of the cut your losses group. I just bought rear brake drums, new brake shoes, the two wheel cylinders, and brake hardware for under $90 from Rock Auto. Now that is just the rear but you have everything new. I want to change the brakes next summer as I think my old stuff still has one season left in them. I was getting a radiator and related parts and those who deal with Rock Auto know you can get cheap shipping on additional items if they are from the same location. The rear brakes were, the front were not so I bought the rear to have. Hope this helps.

My experience with easy-outs is that they break on stuff that is really stuck. If you think about it, the cross-sectional area of the easy-out is less (often much less) than the item you're trying to remove since area is a function of diameter squared. Also, the easy-out will expand the bolt you're trying to remove. The only thing worse than a stuck broken bolt is a stuck broken bolt with a piece of hardened steel in it. Been there, done that and I have the machine shop bills to prove.

If you have the time, Kroil, lots of patience and judiciuous tapping and heat (but not too much or you can have collateral damage) may get you there.

Why are you trying to get the bleeders off anyway? I had some that were stuck so bad that I decided to leave until the calipers started leaking from all the crap that I couldn't flush out of the brake system. They never failed before my Aerostar got totaled. If you have air in the system, then I understand why you need to bleed.

No way unless you'd drilled the hole off center so much that it's so thin and cracks. I've removed bolts using an EZ Out where the piece looked like a spring, it was that thin.

That's where the left fluted drills are an advantage. Since the drill is turning the opposite direction, pressure is applied in a proper direction to unscrew the bolt, the bolt is being heated, and the vibration helps loosen the remnants of the bolt or screw.

Worst case you end up with a hole for the easy-out, and the force applied during drilling did not force the piece to be any tighter.

If you've never tried this method, you really should. There is no larger reward than positioning yourself to drill a hole in the bolt and having the bolt unscrew itself when you've only gotten half of the depth you intended.

I will definitely keep this in mind. I've heard of this method before and it's good to hear more positive results from others. I don't have left hand drills on hand and tend to use what I have laying around (except I won't be quick to use easy-outs on stuff that is stuck like nobody's business).

Harbor Freight has a cheap set, but sometimes you get what you pay for.
Irwin has decent but affordable drills and having a few key sizes onhand doesn't hurt.

Thanks for all of the input! I'll tell you how it went!
 

I just wanted to bleed the brakes because I replaced the left aft brake hose. The bleeders wouldn't loosen-they just broke off. I had tried heat, then kroil, days prior. So, I tried easy-out, but broke it off, which made the left handed drilling hopeless, as the easy out was of hard metal. Bought new wheel cylinder. Then I tried the front calipers, knowing they would be seriously stuck. Kroiled them for a few days, tried to loosen without breaking them off. No joy, so heated them with a propane torch and banged them on sides to try kroil and vise grip. Twisted them off, so I tried to left-hand drill them out, even ran a tap into one I had drilled to get the remains out easier, but didn't succeed, so bought new calipers. Now I can't get a firm brake pedal after attempts at bleeding. I have run a couple of quarts of new brake fluid through them. Fluid is really clean, but I can't get safe braking yet. I'm in Wisconsin, where this '04 has gone through a bunch of road salt winters. The underside looks like a relic found at the bottom of the ocean after 50 years. I thank you all for tips that would normally work, so may all of you thrive and prosper!